Saw Modz

Talking about the 192, I do what was said about opening ex port and leave deflector but not screen. ( you can open deflector hole as well before putting back), also I remove inside baffle from muff and cut flywheel key about a third to advance timing.
Great thread guys
 
I don't have a video, but it's real simple. Remove the flywheel and thin the key by about 1/3 it's width, such that it can be rotated CCW. I like to use a degree wheel, but you only want the OD to move about 1/4". That's just a guestimate. Torque it back down. If the taper is clean, it should lock in place and not move.
 
Ok Brad I got off work early today and advanced the timing on one of my 150's that I opened up the exhaust and intake on and it made a nice noticeable improvement. I took it and a stock 150 to the local saw shop and did a demo comparison cut on a small log and they were suitably impressed. Thanks for the info.
 
Philtreeman#1 said:
Hey one of you saw experts. I would like to modify my Ms 440 Magnum. What are some great modifications I can do. Thanks
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Muffler mod or buy a duel port muffler cover. Retune the carb after.

Maybe we should sticky a thread title, "Step one: Muffler Mod"

Then start adding for the other mods, everybody that does it posts pics and saw model. pretty soon we will have enough for people to find their saw and what mods vs just coming in and asking without reading all the pages.
 
You'll have to remove limiters from carb to get it rich enough for a proper ported muffler.
Also removing the base gasket from many saws will give great gains however, you must check your squish( distance between piston and squish band in top of cylinder). A proper squish clearance must remain, usually between .015 and .025 depending on size of saw. There are instructions on checking squish readily available online.
Your 440 will probably be happy with .020. Also an ignition timing advance may help
 
jabezkin said:
My ported 044/046 runs at 14,500 and it is a lil fat.
I'm a coward. Not trying for the last bit.
Reliability Rules.
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044/046 safe work saw at 14,500 better to keep them fat.
The 192 isn't built nearly like a larger pro saw, I feel safe around 13,500
Work saws have to stay reliable, but should perform to full potential .
 
SixGun said:
The term "work saw" as I understand refers to a modified saw used every day for work .
The mods are done to build power and speed but keep the saw reliable.
I know you guys like pics and video, here is a 372 I did,
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work saw now and work saw 10 yrs ago mean totally different things. now we are getting epoxied intakes and calling it a work saw....i dont think even 5 yrs ago that would have passed as a "work saw"
 
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