saw cutting crooked

I had a family member borrow 2 saws the other day with out permission. He used them to cut several small stumps down, flush to the ground. When I got them back the chains where very loose and dull. I resharpened them and tightened them up, but when I started to cut with them they would go into the wood about 6 in. and bind up. When I pulled them out you could see where the cut took a sharp turn and binded. These are pretty new Stihl bars. I flipped one over and tried it again, but it just turned the other direction. Is what causes this? I figured the rails are uneven or out of whack, is there a way to fix this?
 
How long have you been sharpening chains?

It sounds like a case of double operator error to me.
 
about a year or so. I don't think it is the sharpening for two reasons. First when I switched the bar over the curve went the other direction. Second, if you look real close it looks like the chain is cocked to one side. Like the the outside edges of the rivets are flush with the edge of the bar on oneside and stick on the other. What part of LA are you from?
 
Take alook at the bummer spikes I just put a new set on my husky 268 that was cutting a lil off key, still wondering how that happened but ooooowell fixed and running striaght.
Nate
 
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Bumper? there chimp.

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Do you have fire ants nearby?

If the stump shorten project was in an area with fire ants setting up housing, search no further for answers.

The ants build up sand or gritty dirt inside the bark of southern pine.
Said grit gets in the bar of a dull saw.
Sawyer puts a lot of pressure on bar.
Bar grooves wears surprisingly fast, not evenly.

There are those here that cast doubt on your manhood for not skillfully sharpening.

They are so wrong.

Your manliness should be questioned for not beating the snot out of anyone that would cut dirt with your saw.

Also, you mentioned that the saw was binding after cutting so far in. That is being caused by a bar worn differently along its length. One section is angling the chain one way then the bar is unworn or worn in the opposite manner further along.

Your bar needs work.
 
It also occurs to me, when you sharpen your chains, are you sure to keep from putting a 'beak' on the tooth? The chain can be razor sharp but if the cutters have too much of a hook from not filing the top of the cutter the chain will be grabby and make curving cuts... the sharper the cutters, the more curvy it will cut. I noticed it more in hardwood than softwood.
 
any one who takes my saws with out permision
will be in trouble dont care if its a family member
thay will be in trouble to
and thay will pay for any dammages
 
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He used them to cut several small stumps down, flush to the ground.

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I never cut that low. The angled grain of the wood and gravity compressing the wood over the years make flush cuts ridiculous. I say, "let a stump grinder get the rest." "Use the right tool for the job." I cut the stump where the root flare starts. In other words, I will only cut perpendicular to the grain. When my customers say, "can you cut it any lower?" I explain why I leave the stump a little high and they understand.

With that said, he may have hit sand immediately.
The made the chain dull.
He was forcing a dull saw.
The bar and chain got extremely hot and he warped/bent the bar.
Then, when you came along you were passed down a bent bar. So, even if the chain was tightened correctly, the bar is warped.

Make him pay for new bars and chains.
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It might be time to straighten out the chain with a good power grinder , like the one the saw shop uses . that's what i do, if it still does't cut ,chuck it!! start over w' a new chain
 
Never heard of a bar being the culprit, but if the saw goes one way and then switches when you flip the bar, it is definitely the bar (although the chain may be damaged beyond repair also). Good luck getting anything from the unauthorized users.
 

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