Saddle tie in

What system are you climbing on? I wouldn't like how it twists my bridge when I'm connected to a system that has the carabiner horizontal when loaded.
 
GrayMoss said:
Is there a good reason to not just tie into saddle bridge with a carabiner?
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Not really for a single tie in. A bridge ring often just helps the orientation of the device. Also if tied into two ropes, clipped in twice to a bridge can be a little uncomfortable as its not loading the bridge in only one direction like being clipped into a ring would do.
 
No, perfectly acceptable. I often do that with my Zigzag, it has a bulit in swivel. Keeps my system closer to me. Works well for the Skylotec Sirius as well, that's meant to be used in a sideways orientation like the Petzl I'D. All othe devices go on the swivel or ring depending on the saddle.
 
climbstihl said:
No, perfectly acceptable. I often do that with my Zigzag, it has a bulit in swivel. Keeps my system closer to me. Works well for the Skylotec Sirius as well, that's meant to be used in a sideways orientation like the Petzl I'D. All othe devices go on the swivel or ring depending on the saddle.
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Ditto.

Just watch the wear on your carabiner. It will wear in a single spot vs a ring that usually won’t groove.
 
Tuebor said:
What system are you climbing on? I wouldn't like how it twists my bridge when I'm connected to a system that has the carabiner horizontal when loaded.
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On doubled moving rope with a hitch climber pulley. It seems to stay in a good working position.
In the past I have tried swivels but didn't find much advantage and it just moved my hitch a little further out.
I asked because I see all the catalogues with a ring on the bridge.
 
I've always just clipped onto my bridge with a carabiner, no ring or anything. Used to climb with a hitch climber and now my primary climbing device is the ZigZag (the one with only two attachment points). But that's just me, I haven't tried using a ring or anything so I don't really know the difference. I'm actually looking into getting a new saddle so maybe I will give some thought to this now.
 
27RMT0N said:
Here is a video about the break-strength of carabiners with grooves worn on them:

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I’ve seen a break test done on a grooved out swivel, and it broke right around advertised mbs. So I do let mine groove some without worry, but I think it’s wise to encourage others to be aware of the rope’s ability to abrade hardware. How should I advise people in the amount of grooving to allow? I’d rather advise them to monitor their hardware for grooving period. The tests we’ve seen have shown that some grooving isn’t catastrophic, but I don’t have enough data myself to advise a certain parameter of wear, so I choose the side of caution when advising others.
 
Oh I agree 100%, just thought it would be an interesting bit of info for folks to see. Honestly the results surprised me.
 
Oh, I misunderstood. A question that came to mind when watching- how much does carabiner shape play into the results? Most arborists that I know use oval or hms styles, which are the weaker constructions. I’m sure that if one had a break machine and unlimited time and materials, we’d still never cease to desire new data on configurations. *sigh*
 
Crimsonking said:
I’ve seen a break test done on a grooved out swivel, and it broke right around advertised mbs. So I do let mine groove some without worry, but I think it’s wise to encourage others to be aware of the rope’s ability to abrade hardware. How should I advise people in the amount of grooving to allow? I’d rather advise them to monitor their hardware for grooving period. The tests we’ve seen have shown that some grooving isn’t catastrophic, but I don’t have enough data myself to advise a certain parameter of wear, so I choose the side of caution when advising others.
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Standard wear retirement criteria is 10%. (DMM, Petzl) Most carabiners/ rings are made of 10mm stock so 1mm will suffice as well.

I generally retire well before that though. They ain’t that expensive.

Tony
 
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