Saddle setup (picture thread)

Lupin_IV said:
I fiddled with adjustable bridges in my early days and it just seemed pointless. Fiddled again a couple years later and it still didn’t seem right. Decided to try again after looking at the Kinisi but I couldn’t get over the fact you can’t let it out under load. Tom Dunlap enlightened me about its usage coming back from a limb walk, but I literally only use it to ascend and for awkward close position situations. I think there’s a saddle that uses the same idea but nobody uses that saddle lol. Had great success with it the past few days tho!
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I had the same issue - letting out the DMM bridge under load - till I kinda figured out my own "crank - wiggle" with the hips that took the load off for couple seconds (loaded the other bridge) and that was all the was needed to let out a bit. What did take a moment to figure was how the cam would let out but that too was part of the learning curve for me with a new saddle. What I did was crank the tail towards the cam and it let go OK. Sort of a choreographed move.
 
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islandarb said:
You asked me a question? My bad, been super busy on a big project for me. Then step on a plane to the States to do some climbing and mountain biking with my boy. Not snobbing you. Must have gotten distracted. If you love the sequoia kudos to you, I owned a few long ago. My boy had the newer type too. Was not a fan. I am a TM Evo guy these day. A TM guy for ages before. The damn thing just ticks my boxes. Molds to my body. Plain comfy and allows some awesome work position way out on tips pruning. To make necessary small cuts. Just my gig honestly. If you like the sequoia, absolutely nothing wrong with that. Keep enjoying it.
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I didn't mean to rush you or be demeaning. It just seems many are more respected, than others.
I didn't really ask a question about the Sequoia, though did respond to you, about the pros and cons of the TM and the Sequoia. Referencing your unique likes (good) of the TM, which I agree would be nice, if the Sequoia had as well.

I did ask about you what you didn't like about the Courant Kalimba Rope.
 
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Willber said:
I didn't mean to rush you or be demeaning. It just seems many are more respected, than others.
I didn't really ask a question about the Sequoia, though did respond to you, about the pros and cons of the TM and the Sequoia. Referencing your unique likes (good) of the TM, which I agree would be nice, if the Sequoia had as well.

I did ask about you what you didn't like about the Courant Kalimba Rope.
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Kalimba is too much stretch for me. Very nice rope, just too much bounce.
 
@islandarb Yea, it has noticeable stretch especially at 50ft in MRS. But, much less stretch than Drenaline, and a bit more than HyperClimb, though it flattens noticeably less than HyperClimb, in the ZZ during MRS.
We still need a better allround rope (pun intended) in the arb world.
 
Fun to see what folks are climbing in.

These are kinda abstract photos, just stuff I found.
Setup changes for the climb, of course.

harness1.webp
Left hand side, on the big biner I am bringing up a rigging line.. I still always climb with Felcos. What can I say, I started in the Orchard, and with luck maybe end there.

harness2.webp
This was a climb where I installed a rope system, so I've got electrical tape. gives a view of the right hand side. I've got a friction saver on the clip where I'll stow the chainsaw when needed.
Black pouch usually has a ultra-sling I use as a footloop when I need to stand where there's no crotch. Tiny pocket has a tourniquet.

harness3.webp
This was when the saddle was brandy-new. I seem to think I was pruning a Pear.. sometimes I just climb with two Silky's, coarse and fine.

I'll grab a centered view in daylight, of my base setup. For now thought I'd pepper in a few views from the wild.
 
There are various strengths.

Hanging a rigging rope or lanyard tail ...weak.

As a breakaway local connection, stronger.

All I have is body weight, 50 pounds of 'weights', and gallons of water... I'll try to test some..



I've been needing 2 climbing system, 'v-hangs' from two overhead TIPs, lately. I use the zip-ties for work positioning.
 
Has anyone using a 'breakaway system' had it come into play in a climbing incident? I've seen it mentioned many times over the years, but never a case of it actually 'working'. Just curious.
 
Just cause the convo has moved to breakaways I had the idea of pulling the sleeve off a screamer and strategically cutting the webbing. The thought is it’s a rated piece designed to rip stitches at a shock load. The cut would make it so it literally breaks at a high enough load
This video rekindled the idea


@27RMT0N there were/are times I chose not to use a second securement, and twice I wish I used a breakaway. One of those might not have made the situation better. I took a top in the wind, the tree to the right of the slot blew into the gap. Not enough of a step and the butt of the top pushed back into my belly. Pinned back I couldn’t release my flipline. I could barely touch the spar and I had to cut it off of myself.
If I used a weak enough break away I would have fallen back on to my rope and would have been clobbered by the butt. Not sure what would have been worse.
The other time was getting snagged on my flipline
 
The ART Snaketail stitching is designed to blow at 2kn? if I’m remembering correctly. You can clip to the stitching instead of the pocket for a breakaway that is a known number.

Another really simple system would be to use an ART Positioner as your lanyard adjuster and put a well worn cam on it. Anyone who has used these knows what I’m talking about. When the cams get worn they start slipping at low loads which means they will also slip at higher loads. I use this with no stopper knots in my lanyard so if what I’m strapped to goes it will just slip off the end of the lanyard and I’ll be on my climbing system.

I’ve done many trees with a breakaway system but never needed it.
 
RyanCafferky said:
I’ve done many trees with a breakaway system but never needed it.
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Same for zippers on ice climbs where screw placement leaves one wondering a bit - but never had one go on a whipper. As I understand they are designed to unzip and spread peak force out over time until you reach the end where you have essentially a solid connection/ loop at rated strength of the tat. Not really like a zip tie which would be no go or go unconnected completely.
I haven't seen the ART Positioner clipped just thru the sewn bits - in fact I think I remember in the dark abyss of time a sheet from ART warning not to do this? Maybe?
 
ghostice said:
I haven't seen the ART Positioner clipped just thru the sewn bits - in fact I think I remember in the dark abyss of time a sheet from ART warning not to do this? Maybe?
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The instructions specifically say NOT to do this because if you load the stitching in between the pockets more than 2kn it will be let loose. But if you are TRYING to not go down with something it could be helpful.
 
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