Looking through the new Wespur catalog that just arrived. The Rope Wrench with the Lawton tether. The bands are on the back side. On my ZK2 the band is on the inside. The Lawton tether also looks to have 3 separate bands. Are they adjustable for more or less pressure? I figured it would need at least one to help grab. I'm probably going to pick up another Wrench soon and just wondering is theres much of a difference in tethers. I currently use a split tether.
Rope Wrench question
- Thread starter Benjo75
- Start date
Rob Stafari
Participating member
- Location
- Cincinnasti
I can't imagine having my wrench tether attached to my pulley like that with a carabiner between wrench and pulley instead of carabiner connecting it straight to pulley. Just don't see how that could even begin to work well.
As for your question though. The @height tether that is sold with the CE wrench in Germany (The black one on the left in picture) has a band that should go on the inside underneath the wrench that doesn't allow the wrench to fold down as far on ascent so there is less it has to travel to engage when transitioning to descent. Does not look like that would work with that configuration though. Perhaps there is enough room in those to attach a chest harness carabiner to pull the wrench up on ascent to keep the carabiner attaching tether to pulley from collapsing. I don't want to have to clip in every time I go to take out some slack in the system. Nor would I want to stay clipped in full time and limit my range of movement. I suppose if you were using a fifi hook for that purpose like some do, it might not be too bad to connect real quick. Not for me from the looks of it. Just my 2 cents. Maybe somebody who knows more or different than I will chime in with there thoughts.
As for your question though. The @height tether that is sold with the CE wrench in Germany (The black one on the left in picture) has a band that should go on the inside underneath the wrench that doesn't allow the wrench to fold down as far on ascent so there is less it has to travel to engage when transitioning to descent. Does not look like that would work with that configuration though. Perhaps there is enough room in those to attach a chest harness carabiner to pull the wrench up on ascent to keep the carabiner attaching tether to pulley from collapsing. I don't want to have to clip in every time I go to take out some slack in the system. Nor would I want to stay clipped in full time and limit my range of movement. I suppose if you were using a fifi hook for that purpose like some do, it might not be too bad to connect real quick. Not for me from the looks of it. Just my 2 cents. Maybe somebody who knows more or different than I will chime in with there thoughts.
climbstihl
Branched out member
- Location
- Germany
My guess is that you can tune it by movingmore or less bands beneath the wrench. I don't think using no bands like the picture shows is a great idea though.
I do agree with @Rob Stafari that the tether doesn't look that great, since the carabiner doesn’t look like it'll be held firmly. If there was some sort or rubber grommet in there, it looks like it would be a great tether, quite similar to the chicane.
I do agree with @Rob Stafari that the tether doesn't look that great, since the carabiner doesn’t look like it'll be held firmly. If there was some sort or rubber grommet in there, it looks like it would be a great tether, quite similar to the chicane.
Sprucinator
New member
- Location
- Northern IL
The bands should be on the inside to keep it from folding down imo. To keep the wrench from flopping around, that black string that comes with it is to seize the tether to the biner to keep it from flopping. I'm probably going to get one of these and use a shackle instead of a biner. The benefit I see is a very compact system where usually on the normal tethers (10"), the wrench engages a whole 12" (at least) above your pulley making it hard to grab above the wrench and maneuver around things and crotches. It also allows you to switch to MRS easily without messing with your main bridge biner which is awesome. Only thing is you have to make sure you have a shorter hitch setup as well (28" eye to eye is probably pushing it close).
rope-a-dope
Branched out member
- Location
- Asheville
In deed, someone put the wrench on the tether backwards. Rubber prevents wrench from folding too far into full disengagement and staying there when hitch is released.
I believe the idea for this tether is seizing it onto the biner with stiching/whipping to prevent flop slop.
I believe the idea for this tether is seizing it onto the biner with stiching/whipping to prevent flop slop.
Flying~Squirrel
Participating member
- Location
- VT/NH
I think it's set up wrong in the picture regarding the rubber thingies. The tether comes with whipping twine to sieze on a carabiner, but in my experience it doesn't work that well. Also the total length of the tether and a perfect 0 is like 11 inches, so it's useful in that it's easy to put on or off, but it's not very compact, and it's very floppy.
However, I use the lawton tether with an isc rope wrench pulley so the tether attaches to the main carabiner, between the sheaves. This makes for the most compact wrench set up you can buy from the store. I used the whipping twine to fix a tending point.
However, I use the lawton tether with an isc rope wrench pulley so the tether attaches to the main carabiner, between the sheaves. This makes for the most compact wrench set up you can buy from the store. I used the whipping twine to fix a tending point.
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I got rid of the rubber bumper on a observation of rico’s that it caused too much friction when ascending, but the Wrench would rotate too far down so that it wouldn’t catch. An o ring on each side of the top eye of the tether stopped it from going too far and the rope nearly self centers itself for less friction, but always grabs because the slic pin stays in contact with the rope. A 8 inch tether made from Titan cord
