rope placement while blocking down a trunk

Phil

Carpal tunnel level member
Location
Oak Lawn, IL
First the basic question and then my thoughts...

"When blocking down a trunk, where do you place your flip line and where do you place your main line?"

This questioned was spawned while I was at work and watching my buddy remove a spruce trunk. Regardless of how much experience a fellow climber has, I always analyze everything they do if I can see it from the ground. We don't do a lot of spike work because we can usually get the bucket to the removals so this issue hasn't really been relevant until now. My buddy had the pulley hitched to the tree and was getting ready to make his notch. I noticed both his flip line and main line were fastened ABOVE the sling for the pulley. To me that is a red flag. I asked him about it and he said something about arbor master videos mentioning putting a rope above the pulley sling. That doesn't make sense to me. After i brought this up he agreed that having them above the sling was dangerous and he put them below the sling for the rest of the removal. After the tree was finished we had a discussion about the situation. Here were some of the issues we talked about when we were all on the ground:

1. With both ropes above the pulley, the climber runs the risk of the rope flipping over the trunk in the event of a shock load or a swaying trunk after a piece is cut.

2. With both ropes above the pulley sling the climber is more susceptible to being affected by fiber tear as opposed to the pulley sling taking the force if both lines were below the sling.

3. With both ropes above the pulley sling and so close to the zone of cutting, if one rope were to be accidentally cut with a chainsaw, chances are both will be cut.

4. If both ropes are placed Below the pulley sling, and the pulley is tied as close and tight to the trunk as possible, the pulley itself could damage or possibly cut through one or both lines during the lowering of a section.

5. Place one rope above the sling and one rope below the sling.

6. Leave 2-3 inches of rope between where the pulley hangs and where the sling wraps the trunk to allow both ropes to be below the sling and free from contact with the pulley.

Those are the main ideas and or concerns we talked about on the job site. My way was number 6. To me, that is the safe way to do it. What concerns me though is that my buddy referenced an arbormaster training video with regards to placing a line above the pulley sling. I don't recall seeing this particular video but non-the-less I am here for input, advice, and a concern for safety.

This discussion is officially open for business.
 
Here's a good pic. I'm not blocking it down, but if I was my ropes would still be in this position, with the pulley tied under the ropes. I would have my ropes cinched up higher, also.
 

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I place both ropes above the sling/block before making the final cut. Climbing line, lanyard, or both are used in a choking manner around the spar so as not to come off the top. Proper kerf cuts will prevent fiber tearing into the ropes or rigging.
 
I notice that the climbing line is placed above the lanyard, I prefer to keep my "escape route" as far away from the saw as possible........thoughts?


WP
 
There's probably more tension in your lanyard, if you cut the climb line it won't affect you but if you cut your lanyard with a running saw it could knock you off balance.
 
I like my lanyard above the block and my lifeline choked lower, and in a position where it cannot be fouled by the block when the load is applied. Gives me the extra security and options if things go wrong
 
Phil, both lines should be above the block sling. At least one should be choked or cinched, both if possible. Use an adjustable FS or a RG. Placing life support systems below a rigging sling can be hazardous to your health. I'd be glad to talk or demonstrate. Gimme a call.
 
The other problem of putting your lines below the pulley sling is...When the the peice of wood comes off, the pulley /sling tends to slide down the spar a bit. This in turn pinches your lines between the trunk and sling . And your stuck there till the piece of wood is on the ground. You can't even rotate around the spar.
 
I see merit in Pete's idea if there's excessive wobble and the lines are flicked off the top of the spar ... You guys cutting those tall wobbly doug firs and regnans ought to know about the wobble factor.

If the block does migrate down the spar I would say the prussic choked up against the cinched climbing line would just give out some line.

Both above is what we were taught, but like I said I see merit in one below depending on the tree and circumstances.
 
I understand what you're saying Pete having the line chocked on somewherebelow the block, but for me I'm always adjusting that chocked line and the lanyard before the final cut to clear the block from the stem, and that all happens around the same location just above the rigging. I have always had both lines attached just above the rigging even before I saw the Arbormaster vids.
 
I burnt up my lanyard the other day with it under the block. It was a redirected block so I had some wierd rope angles that I didn't acount for. I think that is why I had it under the rigging to begin with because of the wierd angles but I cant really recall. I had a High and away TIP. It burnt clean through the sheath of the blaze but the core remained pretty clear. It was a fairly big chunk and I had the ground man let it run. It ran right through my lanyard. So that is a danger of having it under the rigging. Climbed the rest of the day with a loopie sling lanyard.
 
I think my point about having my climbing line being below the lanyard is that, I would prefer to left with the climbing line to descent out of the tree or be rescued in the event of an accident. Double checking where your ropes and lanyards are is also a must before lifting the chainsaw.

WP
 
Double checking is the charm no doubt about it, not a nice feeling slicing through your line (or the bosses line that you took up because it a shorter line...now much shorter!) not nice at all. Double check, double check.
 
Thanks for all the replies...I never considered the sling pinching the lines preventing a decent. So now I can see why above the sling. Tom...that article is just the information I was looking for. I have used the running bowline with a long tail technique mentioned in the article for moving down a trunk and it is fantastic. This has been an enlightening discussion and as far as I’m concerned its proof positive that this website is worth all the effort...thanks guys
 

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