rope kinks

T

Treebeard

Location
Charleston, SC
What is the best way to get the kinks out of new line? I just recieved some Fly line and it is great and i want to get those new line kinks out before march. what i have been doing is after every decent walking the remainder of the line through my hitch to the end. is the making it worse or better?
 
OY! I thought fly was more for mechanical ascenders than friction hitches, but why would your new rope have kinks in it? I would tie one end off to a post and put on some heavy duty leather gloves, grab that rope as hard as I could and walk to the free end slowly, and steadily leaning against the rope. Do this six times and see if the jacket moves around. there ought not to be kinks in the core, or I would be seriously worried. What is the deal? Anyone else find this a little disturubing??
 
How did a story that Fly was only for mechanicals get going? REally funny how the rumor mill grinds. The rope doesn't need to be treated or used in any different way than any other climbing line.

When I get new rope I try to uncoil it carefully from the inside of the coils. Then I find a way to weave it through posts or around trees like a snake through your fingers. Pull the rope back and forth through the posts several times. Everytime the rope goes around a corner you'll milk off the spirals and force them to the end of the rope. If you look carefully in the grass you'll see that the spirals have fallen off the end of the rope and twisted up the grass into dreadlocks. Nex, milk the rope with a gloved hand. Some climbers will put a friction hitch on the rope then clip a biner in the loop and milk out the rope. This will stabilize the cover/core before you climb. If you use a figure eight to do this you'll add back in all of the hockles you milked out in the firs step. A rack would be a better tool to use since it doesn't twist the rope.

Now you're ready to climb. Do you coil or bucket your rope? Bucketing will leave your rope straighter unless you are very disciplined about coiling and uncoiling your rope.

After you descend you could keep backing away from the tree to milk out any cover/core and hockles. After a while the rope will stabilize and you can recut the end.
 
Tom, Ijust bought FLY rope. Having both ends spliced by manuf. Do they milk the rope after doing the first splice. I'm alittle worried that there might be slack caught in the rope. Any concerns and what do I need to do?
 
Tom wrote:
"How did a story that Fly was only for mechanicals get going? REally funny how the rumor mill grinds. "


That rumor started when some company(NE Ropes), ran an add in all the arborist rags that read that the Fly is:
"Designed for all vertical applications useing mechanical hardware."
 
We're not reading each others posts carefully, and I'm the biggest goof.

When I read: I thought fly was more for mechanical ascenders than friction hitches...

I went to "only" instead of what was written "more for" My BAD, slap my keys.

Since Fly is smaller diameter, it will work with more tools than other arbo ropes. There aren't many tools that are rated for 13mm ropes.

Tom
 
SAwdust,

Tou have a valid concern. I have no clue how they handle that issue. Call them

Mahk,

Hubert sent me a different clutch for the LJ that he made for the Edelrid rope. I haven't climbed with it yet but I can feel the old familiar grab that I remember from XTC.

Tom
 
treebeard,
i usually hang new rope from a tree w/ some weight on each end for the duration of a work day. on another note i noticed you live in charleston, sc... i was an arborist there for a little while, i worked for historic tree and van's tree service. who are you with down there? i miss climbing those beautiful live oaks.
 
Chad who cares about those big oaks down in SC. Your up here in VA now Boy. You stop day dreamin about them there live oaks and think about the task at hand.
 
I know I'm jumpimg in a little late here, but I do have a question about Fly line.

I've noticed that cheverons on this rope seem to be a little more prone to plucking and fraying than regular arbo line , such as XTC when rubbing aginst heavy bark. Has anyone come accross this problem?

Greg
 
The chevrons are the V shaped pics.

My rope is wearing quite nicely. But...its winter and I'm not climbing full time. Mark was probably the first climber to have the Fly so he would know.

Tom
 
thanks guys for all the advice. i have been milking out the line after every decent. i have found that coiling my while running it around a tree or limb is getting the kinks out.....hey Chad, this is Ary, we used to work together at HTP. glad to see that you are still working w/trees.
 
It's true, I have been "flyin'" for a while. The truth is, if a rope is made soft and plyable, it will ruffle a bit and get frayed. That is life. The original fly that I tested was stiffer and more durable than any line that I have ever climbed on. It had to be changed to fit the ANSI specs.

The new one has a lot of the qualities that I enjoyed about the prototype, but seems to burn a bit easier and fray. Oh well. It is still the best choice overall as far as I'm concerned.

This is the rope of the future. It is easier to pack/carry, works better with devices, absorbs energy and is way lighter than any other arbo line. It may improve throught the next few years, but it has set the new standard. I like it a lot! I would love to hear from others who have used it in the field. Anyone?
 
Mine is only less than 2 months old and is already showing wear. But I don't use a false crotch (never met anyone in person who did, including some highly regarded posters here) and the Fly doesn't hold up well to friction. I actually burned my Fly rope on a couple fast descents- the burning matched where my friction hitch was, not the crotch where I was tied in. I think it's benefits will be mostly observable to those select few who are using the most advanced techniques in the field and do not descend too fast. Most 'rope and saddle' climbers will probably prefer Blue Streak.
At first I loved it but now I'm undecided. I did 15 trims today, several where I was able to access 2-3 trees with one climb. Lots of moving around and I didn't even think to use my Fly rope. I guess I need to force myself to use it untill it's worn out so I'll have a more definitive opinion.
 
I had the good fortune to feel a piece of fly climbing line. I then ordered a hank of it. This means I'll have to spend some time working on it to pass judgement as to wear and whether the price is worth the trade off of more frequent rope replacement.

The idea this rope burns easier troubles me. If this rope's sheath is made of polyester, it should have the same wear qualities as other polyester ropes outside of the soft hand of the rope. The softer hand of the rope means to me I need to expect fibers to catch and pull from the rope. I also expect my friction hitches to work differently. I would like to develop a method or list of things in which to test hitch characteristics for this rope.

My understanding of the elongation characteristics of the fly rope is this rope is a static line. This means to me lower elongation and higher tensions will occur throughout the line because of a fall. Unfortunately, I cannot access the page of this site to confirm or deny elongation specifications for the fly climbing line.

Joe
 
I've been climbing on the fly for a while, the only complaint I have is that I have had a big problem with it spinning while using it with a RG. I have tryed a bunch of different hitches to try to reduce it, but no luck. I also find it to pick esally. I also think the rope has a future and will improve in time.
 
Tod: is the rope itself torqueing or are the 2 legs twisting around themselves? Does climbing with a different false crotch eliminate the twisting or have you climbed with the fly/RG combination exclusively when using the fly?

Joe
 
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