Daniel
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Suburban Philadelphia (Wayne)
Rip cut rigging from the bucket
- Thread starter Daniel
- Start date
TheTreeSpyder
Branched out member
- Location
- Florida>>> USA
Hello again Daniel, Nice!
I think of first movement, when allow to flex over/working with instead of just fighting gravity, as when it starts 'breathing'; comes alive.
I think drifting down and sideways as less severe down; and 45degrees as the logical and most functional choice to try. Seems a more 'squared' feel in the movement, where cos=sin=70.7% each. Also, would favor with hitch on your side of the COG, and needing some sidewards sweep/where support is off to the side. For the load moves across to support, slacking line some; at same rate moves down away from support tightening some. 70.7%=70.7%, by the numbers. Feels like lending to the squared movement feel.
Also, once again present the Tapered Hinge for this usage too, fat end up against gravity. Hope not so many naysayers to that anymore; where fat end of Tapered is greater amount of fiber at most leveraged distance across from compressed pivot for greatest control to side forces. It was always my hero. Only on a balanced across and inline load movement would i say use standard flat across hinge; to the logic of imbalanced load to the movement is best with a ballast of equally/self adjusting controlled balance across hinge. Still works on rips/backcuts into no facing.
Usually, used to 'in my day', pretighten as well as could, then let pretighten line even more/automatically by cutting downward some. Especially when sitting on the limb itself can see/feel load switch from cut to rope some. Then at proper tension go for the 45° serving across down to maintain the tension more stably. Works fair some on rips at same angle without rope too, less severe down as some of total moves across at same time. There is only a finite amount of the total; that is less when divided further. The more stress off hinge, as rope takes it, the longer can control on hinge AND less shock echoing thru the system at actual tearoff/hand off to rope.
Good L.U.C.K.!
•Labor
•Under
•Controlled
•Knowledge
Seems like really can make own LUCK sometimes;
and the more ya practice, the LUCKier ya'git!
Worst problem is, it can look tooo easy.
Take Care!
I think of first movement, when allow to flex over/working with instead of just fighting gravity, as when it starts 'breathing'; comes alive.
I think drifting down and sideways as less severe down; and 45degrees as the logical and most functional choice to try. Seems a more 'squared' feel in the movement, where cos=sin=70.7% each. Also, would favor with hitch on your side of the COG, and needing some sidewards sweep/where support is off to the side. For the load moves across to support, slacking line some; at same rate moves down away from support tightening some. 70.7%=70.7%, by the numbers. Feels like lending to the squared movement feel.
Also, once again present the Tapered Hinge for this usage too, fat end up against gravity. Hope not so many naysayers to that anymore; where fat end of Tapered is greater amount of fiber at most leveraged distance across from compressed pivot for greatest control to side forces. It was always my hero. Only on a balanced across and inline load movement would i say use standard flat across hinge; to the logic of imbalanced load to the movement is best with a ballast of equally/self adjusting controlled balance across hinge. Still works on rips/backcuts into no facing.
Usually, used to 'in my day', pretighten as well as could, then let pretighten line even more/automatically by cutting downward some. Especially when sitting on the limb itself can see/feel load switch from cut to rope some. Then at proper tension go for the 45° serving across down to maintain the tension more stably. Works fair some on rips at same angle without rope too, less severe down as some of total moves across at same time. There is only a finite amount of the total; that is less when divided further. The more stress off hinge, as rope takes it, the longer can control on hinge AND less shock echoing thru the system at actual tearoff/hand off to rope.
Good L.U.C.K.!
•Labor
•Under
•Controlled
•Knowledge
Seems like really can make own LUCK sometimes;
and the more ya practice, the LUCKier ya'git!
Worst problem is, it can look tooo easy.
Take Care!
Last edited:
Daniel
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Suburban Philadelphia (Wayne)
You were the first to describe the technique (arboristsite circa 2002) of pretensioning an offset pull line, tied out near the balance point of the limb, and then using a tapered hinge to allowing the limb to slowly swing (down and sideways) into the rigging. The only thing I changed is that I started using rip cuts instead. They definitely hold on much better than the tapered hinge. I think you called it ball and socket or something. That was definitely very innovative at the time. You deserve a lot of credit for that. That made a huge difference in my rigging style. I had accidntally achieved a similar effect on a limb I rigged a few years before, but didn't understand how and why that happened until you explained it.
TheTreeSpyder
Branched out member
- Location
- Florida>>> USA
i think we've done the same in some ways, thank you.
i will forever remember MM's challenge of drawing with jagged backfield to hinge, asking if i felt would fold to make same strength hinge. Same forward/downward load, hinge would fold on that dimension at jsut less than leveraged load. Tapered just doesn't give generic/usual strip hinge to a cross loaded/side lean or pull. It ballasts/tries to the balance of the load on the cross dimension.
I evolved to faceless/rip cuts too on these, but then too still with the Tapered backcut of support into the non-face/rip for such services. Steering to side some gives greater room to upwards taper/fat end; while reducing the downward motionSquared force i think.
Faceless is kind of a 'Dutch' support across full face, of top fiber pulling up as lower fiber also serves up w/o having to wat for a face close for the push up support. A more true Dutch on one side to push across or full across to pop out over fence, would slam into the face hard. The harder fast slap close harvesting more rebound; like harder throw of rubber ball against wall gives greater response back. This does not invoke that, but still has some push up.
Also, a metered touch i see shown were purposefully let the hinge take some load hard to force it stronger/fold earlier; then have almost 2 ropes on it; only one of the fiber supports is wood hinge until more staged properly to detach.
Tying out near the COG , not so near the butt end as usually trained, gives more ushered range of movement and support with and on the hinge pre-tearoff. Then a span of load between the 2 fiber supports of rope and wood.
But in the end, whatever confidently works cleanly/safely; that is just where i took it on my journey, for my 2 pesos worth to the stack!
Stay Safe !
i will forever remember MM's challenge of drawing with jagged backfield to hinge, asking if i felt would fold to make same strength hinge. Same forward/downward load, hinge would fold on that dimension at jsut less than leveraged load. Tapered just doesn't give generic/usual strip hinge to a cross loaded/side lean or pull. It ballasts/tries to the balance of the load on the cross dimension.
I evolved to faceless/rip cuts too on these, but then too still with the Tapered backcut of support into the non-face/rip for such services. Steering to side some gives greater room to upwards taper/fat end; while reducing the downward motionSquared force i think.
Faceless is kind of a 'Dutch' support across full face, of top fiber pulling up as lower fiber also serves up w/o having to wat for a face close for the push up support. A more true Dutch on one side to push across or full across to pop out over fence, would slam into the face hard. The harder fast slap close harvesting more rebound; like harder throw of rubber ball against wall gives greater response back. This does not invoke that, but still has some push up.
Also, a metered touch i see shown were purposefully let the hinge take some load hard to force it stronger/fold earlier; then have almost 2 ropes on it; only one of the fiber supports is wood hinge until more staged properly to detach.
Tying out near the COG , not so near the butt end as usually trained, gives more ushered range of movement and support with and on the hinge pre-tearoff. Then a span of load between the 2 fiber supports of rope and wood.
But in the end, whatever confidently works cleanly/safely; that is just where i took it on my journey, for my 2 pesos worth to the stack!
Stay Safe !
Last edited:
Daniel
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Suburban Philadelphia (Wayne)
Ya, I still have a pciture of his daughter on my fridge...
and the only thing to be concerned about is with monster limbs the force on the pull line can face a leveraged multiplier as long as the limb is still attached at the cut. I did break a rope once like that... Using a big shackle instead of a block.
and the only thing to be concerned about is with monster limbs the force on the pull line can face a leveraged multiplier as long as the limb is still attached at the cut. I did break a rope once like that... Using a big shackle instead of a block.
evo
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- My Island, WA
We do that frequently, but use different terminology. For us a rip cut is cutting along the grain. What is shown in your video is a peel cut. For maximum effect cut into the trunk with the nose of the bar well into the collar area.
A little added security when there is risk of the butt or whatever coming back into the climber a short length if retired rope and a oldschool wrap. This works great and acts as a tendon on a broken joint, just letting it run free slows it down quite a bit and no need to retrace as the ground crew can use it as a tagline. The groundie join the two ends and ring the bell with the knot block if the length is right.
A little added security when there is risk of the butt or whatever coming back into the climber a short length if retired rope and a oldschool wrap. This works great and acts as a tendon on a broken joint, just letting it run free slows it down quite a bit and no need to retrace as the ground crew can use it as a tagline. The groundie join the two ends and ring the bell with the knot block if the length is right.
Daniel
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Suburban Philadelphia (Wayne)
Thank you... Peel cut is definetley more precise wording. I have occasinally used it in the past but will make it a full time thing..
