Hey Jesse,
Nice work overall. You seem to use the experience of the forum members to build your bag of tricks.
If you don't mind another critique, you can use Gord's Magic Cut technique (don't have the link, but that is what he called it, you might find it in the search function. I wrote a post about it for people that might have missed Gord's original post.). No need to one hand on relatively vertical spar sections. It wasn't wild one-handing, but the Magic cut works wonders on pieces that you'd cut with a top handle, or a big bar/ back-handle saw, eliminating the need for one handing. I don't know the properties of palms to know if this would work exactly the same.
For the top-handle, handsaw, lanyard combo, I use the right "D" ring for my termination snap/biner on my lanyard, with the adjuster on the left "D". The chainsaw is on the right. I hang hardware/ ascenders, etc on the right rear of my saddle. I the exposed chainsaw chain brushes them, no big deal.
My handsaw is on the left with my lanyard tail, slings, etc. I put my things that I don't want near an exposed saw chain (cuttables) on the left. When I am pulling or replacing my handsaw, I tend to watch the blade and sheath more than I do with hanging my chainsaw (more by feel, so I can keep my head/eyes up).
I use a curved blade (Zubat) mostly, with my right hand mostly, so I put the saw on the left, handle pointed forward. I've used a Sawpod. I go back and forth. I have the saw pull out on my climbline a lot more with the Sawpod and Zubat (rubber grip) than on my waist.
If I'm doing a removal, I'll maybe be having a block on the left and chainsaw on the right, so somewhat balanced.
Works for me, maybe it give you an idea that you can use in your arrangment.
Thanks for posting the video. I like the Pink Floyd soundtrack.
