Rigging gear

B

B_Strange

Participating member
Location
Simmonsville
Howdy folks. I need to purchase rigging gear and am going blind looking at computer screens comparing gear. I need to rig out a sugar maple branch that is about 20’ long, 6+” diameter and rig out other smaller branches as welI as rig out a dead white pine. Bombing is not an option.

Here is what I am thinking. Could ya’ll please critique the list? Money is definitely an object.

Buckingham large porty with a looong pocket sling

ISC mini rigging block (or RE 1.5 or CMI mini block or DMM rigging block)

Pocket sling for the block

A 1/2” rigging rope- leaning towards Samson BRW.

Thoughts? Critiques? Snide remarks?
Thanks!
 
Depends on your budget... Are you buying gear for this one tree, or rigging gear for the future?

You can get a way with a 1/2" line, trunk wraps, and natural crotch.

You can use a 1/2" with a figure 8 and web sling at the high point.

You can get a rigging ring or a shackle or a burly steel carabiner, 1/2" and take half a trunk wrap with a good groundie

Or you can do any the above but add a sling and porty but ditch the trunk wrap.

Or if buying gear for the future to last many many years, go with a 9/16ths a good block, and a lowering device.
 
Thanks! Should have been more specific: buying for future use. Trunk wraps a no go as the client wants to preserve the tree as much as possible. I like your idea of a good block. What is your favorite for 9/16 rope?
 
Consider True Blue.

You can piece out the maple natural crotch onto itself, then cut the 'burnt' stub to your pruning cut.


How big is the pine? Armoring dropzones can be way easier than rigging.
 
B_Strange said:
Thanks! Should have been more specific: buying for future use. Trunk wraps a no go as the client wants to preserve the tree as much as possible. I like your idea of a good block. What is your favorite for 9/16 rope?
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16 strand bwr is a good work horse for rigging. 12 strand as well. These ropes are great general purpose with rings/block/natural rigging.

9/16ths won’t be good for any natural rigging as for the double braid construction. Sounds like your new to this and gearing up. Can’t really go wrong with any of the big names. I’m partial to Samson just cause I try to keep shipping and money close to home.
 
Thanks Evo! Yep I am new. Long time rock climber and last year desperately needed a job so I called a arborist and I earned a job with him. He restructured his company in July and I started my own thing. I am very very careful with jobs I choose to keep it in my wheelhouse and check my ego at the quote. If I can’t do it I give the client my old boss’s number. No tree is worth my life or the client’s property.

Still learning about the different construction of ropes and how they are best used. Thanks for your help!
 
Plywood, branches stacked, drop pitchy rounds. Keep pitch off your rope. Keep groundman from trying to catch and run pitchy rounds on a pitchy rope with a POW.
Bundling limbs can help, or let a round sneak past everything.


I've got 5/8", 9/16", 1/2", new 3/8" stable braid, new 9/16" Sirius, handful of half-inch three-strand and single-braid ropes, one true blue. I mostly go for three strand as a cheap and abuse-taking rope. Rarely have to negative-rig trunk wood, in my market. Sometimes, a crash pad is way better, because of structural defects. Usually, you have all you need right there with limbs to build it. The bigger the tree, the bigger the pad you may need, and the more material you have.




I live in a very wet area. My take is that three-strand Treemaster doesn't soak up as much water.

Three-strand is twisted, not braided, so a hanging load will rotate. Sometimes an issue for some people. Some people hate it.






True Blue has strength and stretch. Economical.

Stretch, as you know from rock climbing, cuts you impact force, but lengthens the drop-distance.
More static rigging ropes are needed for lifting and for dropping in tight spaces.
 
Be careful rigging that white pine out. They get brittle quickly after they die.
You can do alot with a porty, half inch double braid and a basic block.
I would recommend a large portawrap with a long deadeye, cmi steel 5/8 block (inexpensive and bombproof) with a 5/8 sling, and 1/2 stable braid or similar. If you're negative rigging alot of wood I would move up to a 9/16 line. It's a good strength increase for not much weight penalty.
A good beater rope is a must as well. 12 or 16 strand ropes are tough as nails and inexpensive. Never been a huge fan of 3 strand but it certainly has it's place.
 
B_Strange said:
Thanks Evo! Yep I am new. Long time rock climber and last year desperately needed a job so I called a arborist and I earned a job with him. He restructured his company in July and I started my own thing. I am very very careful with jobs I choose to keep it in my wheelhouse and check my ego at the quote. If I can’t do it I give the client my old boss’s number. No tree is worth my life or the client’s property.

Still learning about the different construction of ropes and how they are best used. Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...

This is similar to how I started I had been mountain climbing for years. Had a CAD and engineering background in school... after dropping out I worked for a few years and then got jobs working for 2 local tree companies one small and one large great experience... that lasted a few years. They both taught me tons of tips and tricks... Good listening and a genuine interest especially in the little things will make you a better tree care /worker /climber /owner... I say this 9 going on 10 years since my first tree... 6 years on my own. It is not easy, but I love it...

The most important lesson. You all ready mentioned no tree is worth your life... no shame in asking for help. I still occasionally ask for a second opinion.

DON'T RUSH you don't get second chances in this Business.

Heatstroke is real and very deadly... It was 85 with 80% humidity today not terrible, but get moving to quick with no breaks and you can fade fast. Nothing like running a saw or climbing when your delirious might as well be drunk or sleepy...
Just know when to call it a day.

Read, Read, Read, there are endless resources. As well as YouTubers, channels like Reg Coates, August Hunicke, Giorgio Fiori, Tom Hoffman, Arborpod, Climbing arborist, Buckin Billy, Blair Glenn, worksafeBC, Ace tree, and the major suppliers are all great resources not real world experience, but knowledge is power...

Best of luck and don’t go broke on gear, buy stuff to get the job done and as your skills advance. I agree with above the 5/8” CMI is a work horse and my go to of 4 blocks. I mainly use it with 1/2 Dynasorb, I have a 5/8 Stable braid line when the need arrives. One block covers 3 rope sizes in time when you have a bigger system it is great to have crossover.

At a minimum for most removals I'd want
Block, redirect, tag line, rigging line, lowering device and slings.

I noticed you mentioned the RE1.5. I have one we use it for light duty rigging and as a redirect its great tool. I would not go without, but Rings are becoming a more common option to.
 
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evo said:
How are you liking the 3/8ths?
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Light brush and pruning applications, it is great. I glazed mine by having it run across a branch with a ~100lb piece tied on and zipping it down. The cover is rather delicate.

Not natural crotch, not negative. The rope route just had a bend in it.
 
I'd save the money on the block and get a couple of rings, they also work with many rope sizes. For rope I'd go with a 16strand or 12 strand. True blue as mentioned above is a nice 12 strand. Easy on hands, ties well, and doesn't mind rubbing on the tree.

Until I start getting into heavier wood that has to be rigged, I rarely get my porta wrap out anymore. I use natural crotch, ring slings, triple thimble, and wraps on a stub (when solo lowering) for my friction.
 
Jehinten said:
I'd save the money on the block and get a couple of rings, they also work with many rope sizes. For rope I'd go with a 16strand or 12 strand. True blue as mentioned above is a nice 12 strand. Easy on hands, ties well, and doesn't mind rubbing on the tree.

Until I start getting into heavier wood that has to be rigged, I rarely get my porta wrap out anymore. I use natural crotch, ring slings, triple thimble, and wraps on a stub (when solo lowering) for my friction.
Click to expand...

Do you have a specific recommendation for 'a couple of rings'?
 
Rings are the shit man. Cheaper and lighter than blocks and adds a teensy bit of friction compared to blocks or pulleys.

These days if I’m using a block it’s probably because I’m gonna lift with my GRCS or other MA and even then, I’ll often use a Pinto Rig if it’s not gonna see a shock load.

I don’t have to lift stuff often. For rigging that’s just lowering, including negative rigging, it’s always a ring or 2 now.
 
LordFarkwad said:
Do you have a specific recommendation for 'a couple of rings'?
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LordFarkwad said:
Ultrasling with one big ring in it the way to go?
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Any single rings for redirect's and for light negative rigging. The type of sling is personal preference, I prefer dead eye slings myself. For heavier loads go with at least two rings on the sling for load sharing and bend radius.

If your on a budget (not just you @LordFarkwad since your quoted above, but anyone reading) look for tools with multiple uses. I like the rigSaver, it has a steel ring and an aluminum ring on either end and a pinto rig on a Prussik. There's many configurations and uses for the rigSaver.
 
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