Question about felling trees.

DonaldRobertson

DonaldRobertson

Location
Youngstown, Ohio
When felling a tree, do you make a 180 degree cut in first and then for your second cut do you make your diagonal cut last or do you do it the reversed way of what I mentioned. When I fell a tree I make a diagonal cut first and then I make a 180 degree cut to fell a tree. Do you think it really matters how you fell a tree. The reason why I'm asking is that my dad says I'm doing it the wrong way but I seen other people do it the way I do it and they had no problems and it fell where they wanted it to.
 
Don, I assume that you are referring to the face cut. Removing the wedge shaped piece from the tree? If that is your question the correct way is to make the level cut first. This is why; at the end of the cut the wood will make a hinge that the tree rotates or swings on. This hinge is very important, making the level cut first allows you to aim the tree, the tree will usually fall 90 deg to the hinge (in a preface world). I think my explanation is pretty lamb. Search the web for illustrations of felling a tree. A Tree Buzzer here, Gerald Beranek has some outstanding books I would recommend ‘The Fundamentals of General Tree Work’ if you want to learn more about tree work.

Pat
 
If I am understanding your question correctly, I am assuming we are talking about making a face cut/notch/directional cut. The short answer is, in the matter of overall performance of the cut, it does not matter which you make first. As long as the hinge width is correct, overlap is avoided and it is aimed in the proper direction, the cut will work regardless of the order in placing the notch or front cuts. Just don't start with the back cut!!

Having said all that, I would recommend you start with the top cut or diagonal cut. This puts the sawyer in good position to handle a saw, especially a large one.(Sawyer facing the drop zone tree to the cutters left) It allows full advantage of the felling sites and a good view of the target area. The bottom cut comes second. With a slight tilting of the head the sawyer can look into the first cut while remaining in a safe saw operating position. Looking into the cut allows row precise alignment and stoppage as the cut is completed.

I am actually working on a video of this so perhaps I will get a chance to post it.

As a disclaimer, there are many more aspects that go into a proper fell that must be considered. This is just a small piece of the entire equation.

Tony
 
Good explanation by Tony.

This book is a great source of info as well:

tofellatree.jpg


-Tom
 
It gets argued both ways.
I started out doing the bottom cut first to aim the fall. I made my share of bypassed cuts. Then a guy told me I was doing it wrong because with the top cut already in, you can watch the saw meet the corner through the kerf so you don't bypass (you can still aim, it's just funky)...so I started doing the top cut first.
Now I do the bottom first again because it's easier to aim and I just like it better. I try to visualize the finished notch as pull the saw from the bottom cut and start the top cut.
 
If To Fell A Tree is written as well as Jepson's Tree Climbers' Companion, I expect that it has good diagrams and explanations that that cover a lot.

I wouldn't say that doing one cut first is right or wrong, IF you get very ACCURATE results. Really, the proof is in the pudding.

Personally, I find that cutting your face/wedge/directional felling cut by starting with the horizontal cut is easier. I can use my gunning sight (on Stihl's the gunning sight is a line molded into the powerhead that is perpendicular to your bar, allowing you to sight to a distant object, like aiming a rifle) much better that way. We used to set up small rocks like a single Stonehenge stack in the forest and try to hit them (less than 1' wide) from 60-80'. This is good to test your felling direction accuracy, and your estimation of where the tree tip will hit the ground.

For a newer prescribed way of facing trees, which an open notch/ birdbeak/ 90 degree face, I typically will aim with a horizontal cut, if I need accuracy, then cut both sloping cuts.

I think that when you move up to double-cutting your faces and backcuts, that this will be easier. I double-cut a lot of faces with a 20" bar on my 361, rather than change to a 28" bar for a few cuts and change back. As well, this works for me with a climbing saw for the times that I want to knock off one more log (wider than my bar) before lowering down for a ground fell, or pulling up a larger saw.

For getting dialed in on felling, I teach people to mark out the front and back of their hinge with a scrench or carefully with the tip of their bar. For the typical face cuts (depth of about a third of the diameter of the tree), I teach to cut 1/3 of the facecut, and use the gunning sight to check that the cut is on track, then cut the second third, and "gun it", then cut to their mark, if it looks like it is still on the mark, and triple check it. After a lot of time, you may rarely if ever need to "check your gun" for most felling with, say, 20-30 degrees or more of open space.

Predict what will happen, do it, then check what you've done to see how it added up. Calibration. Probably like shooting a bow. At first you have to try really hard to get close, then over time you can go by feel, unless you want to be super accurate (like if you are actually hunting).

PS. Know about proper stump shots, and don't look to the Village Expert for comprehensive advice, and avoid sloping backcuts unless you can't get in a horizontal backcut due to obstacles.
 
Being a former full time production cutter I say there in NO "right way" to fall a tree it all depends on lean, wind, species, location, rot, end result for the log etc etc etc. I'll use any number of cutting styles depending on the tree and how I feel at the moment even notch angles change for when you want it to break off.

That being said I agree with the others making the bottom cut first is easier to aim and I use it most while the top first lessens chance of bypass.
Until you get more experienced I would reccomend an open face 70*+ with a horizontal back cut flush with the bottom of your notch. Your stump should be flat all the way acoss except for the inch strip or so which is your hinge. Good luck to ya bro!
 
I do agree with learning the open face notch, then moving up to humbolt, regular notches then onto the notch with plunge cuts(woooooooooodooogy) they are fun for mostly hollow trees.
 
I agree with the previous posts. Horizontal or angled cut first will depend on your comfort and skill on making the correct notch with no bypass. Do as much practicing as you can with smaller trees and it'll come along. Jepson's book is outstanding.

My advice would be:

Always take extra time to inspect the tree and falling area. Make every step a habit in your mind before you get there.

Take the time you need to make good cuts. As with climbing speed will come with time.

Always keep a couple of wedges with you. Invaluable not only for keeping the bar free, but also to assist the tree in going the right direction. A good single-bit axe/hatchet helps.

The hinge is VERY important.

Watch the top of the tree. Avoid too much cheating of trying to gauge the gap or your wedges coming out to tell you it's falling.

Work hard on making LEVEL cuts. Not only will it help the felling mechanics, but there's nothing like a pretty stump, and nothing like seeing your ugly one.

Educate yourself on all the reactive forces to head and side leans, rot, and all the other things that could go wrong.

Practice new cuts in areas that give you room to miss your landing zone.

Try not to practice a new cut on hazard trees.

NEVER fell alone.


All the best to ya.
 
my tinking is to make the face cut level cut first to no more than 30% ( I prefer 20% diameter) this starts the begining of the hinge. then make the diangular cut using the marks on the chain saw case. point the apex of the notch to the desired point of landing..make sure you donot cut past the level cut because you could enter the hinge wood.. then make your back cut leaving 10% of the diameter for the hinge.. step and push .. best wishes.

steve

pray for a good crop but keep hoeing
 
hmm, i was taught slanted cut first. never really questioned it. sounds like we are about 50/50. somebody should do a vote on this thing.
 
I'll be odd man out here. I like doing the diagonal cut first. The gun sight extends across the top of the powerhead so it can be used to aim easily then the horizontal cut directly into the end of the diagonal. 20% face allows for room to adjust if needed. Then the back cut about an 1" above the vertex of the notch. The hinge is usually about 5%.

The reason for the horizontal cut first historically was due to the fact that an axe was used to make the notch. Thus 45 degrees (no glancing blow with the axe) and the chip would fly. No need to adhere to that method with modern tools.
 
there are many ways to fell a tree and each situation is different. the best practice for felling trees in the urban setting is generally the open face notch where traditionally one makes the slanted cut first on the face. the open face is good because it maintains holding wood for a long duration and slows the fall thus minimizing impact. now if you are trying to maximize board feet you may want to use a humboldt. or if you have a spar with a slight backward lean i like the traditonal forestry notch and i make the notch about 40 percent to get under the weight as much as possible. in softwoods sometimes you can actually make your backcut first on leaners and stand up the spar using wedges. this is really useful on real steep terrain when u need to fell it up hill. i learned that from D. Douglas Dent's book procedural timber felling. however i would never try this next to anything of value.
 
Slanted (top)cut first... ALWAYS... for me.. Not that it is "right"... just easier to set up a good notch that way... I almost never use a humboldt.. and always use a pull line rather than wedges... Lots of advantages to making the top cut first ... but whatever works .. keep doig it..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom