Pulling Over hang

tod;
Very professional, I like the fact you considered killing the power rather than taking the risk and working it live.
You're a leader and good example to follow.
 
Todd,

Ditto to all the above!

When you make your face cut on pieces like that do you prefer to open face it (70 to 90 degrees)so the hinge holds as long as possible, or use less of an angle at the face so the piece breaks closer to when its in line with the DWT line?

I have tried both ways and am not sure which I like better, or if it even makes that much difference.

Tony
 
When making tip tie and drift cuts I like the hinge to break when the tip of the load is pointed right at the rigging point. Then drift the butt till center of mass is under the rigging point. Often I do not want to have to finish the cut or go back to finish the cut especially while climbing. Requires some presision cutting.
 
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When you make your face cut on pieces like that do you prefer to open face it (70 to 90 degrees)so the hinge holds as long as possible, or use less of an angle at the face so the piece breaks closer to when its in line with the DWT line?

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Tony, if you can guess the angle that the piece has to move, cut your notch opening to that angle. The 70 to 90* open face notch goes out the window with this type of rigging. Make your backcut slightly above the apex of the notch (especially with BIG wood). This way, there is nothing for the wood being cut to get hung up on.
On the butt end rigging, use an ISC 'springlock' block. When the wood is done drifting, you can take the rope out of the 'springlock' and use it as a tagline.

TK, is that 1 of Greg's new Italian blocks I see being used as the DWT block?
 
[ QUOTE ]
When you make your face cut on pieces like that do you prefer to open face it (70 to 90 degrees)so the hinge holds as long as possible, or use less of an angle at the face so the piece breaks closer to when its in line with the DWT line?


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I agree with Norm and Todd that the key is to have the hinge break just when the tip of the log is pointing at the rigging point. It also helps to have the ground crew pretension the line and/or pull the slack out as the log tips (possible with a GRCS or Hobbs, but not a PAW). Tensioning the line becomes more of an issue as you move prgressively lower than the rigging point because the rope gradually pulls up more than forward.

If the the rigging point is close to the removal tree, I find that making a Humboldt notch, along with the stepped back cut that Norm mentioned, helps the butt end slide off the spar.
 
OK so cut me some slack here as its my bed time and some beer has been consumed but I dont get this. I understand putting a pulley on the piece to double the pull of the grcs to pull it over but by the same basic premise this means that if the log weighs 2000lbs then this is applied to all of the ropes, NOT SHARED so equates to 6000lbs load on TIP so Im not seeing how this setup reduces forces on tree OR equipement. If you want to reduce forces on tree set a portawrap at the top of tree so only one leg sees the full load,,,,,


Light me up
confused.gif
 
OK as I said it was late. So thought about this today and yes I was wrong. The 2000 logs weight is shared by the 2 ropes from log pulley so each see 1000 and the rope to the LD sees 1000 so TIP sees 3000. Still better to use friction device at top, Someone was making a pulley that you take wraps on and freespools under no load but locks when loaded to give friction. TIP then could see as little as 2100.

Keep pushing the envelope and KEEP LUCKY
 
Todd, Norm and Mahk,

Thanx, what you described is my typical Modus Operandi. Of course getting the wood fiber to co-operate and all the other variables is where science crosses to art.

Nice to hear that not all the ideas that go through my head while rigging are totally off base!

Choose safety,

Tony
 
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