pruning and cabling a mature maple

[Daniel]

There was some discussion on another thread about pruning and cabling and whether it is appropriate to make reduction cuts, rather than thinning cuts. This video provides a good example of the way I do things, which is to make reduction cuts, as I believe that will reduce more weight on the branch tips, (where the leverage is greatest), reducing the most stress on the tree's structure for the least amount of wounding and loss of leaves.

Thought it should have its own thread here on the video forum..


Here's the vid of a mature Norway Maple prune and cable.. the tree was in decline, and it was only after I saw the extensive sun scald that I asked the owner if another tree had been removed nearby. He said that yes indeed another larger tree had been removed. This must have been south/west of the tree shown here, and my guess is that it was done in early-mid summer..

anyhow here is the job.. once again there are no shots of the work actually being done, just a before, during and after with discussion of why and how cuts were made etc..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDKTXJc8mcE

 

[RopeShield]

I removed a large Silver to close to the home and on the south side of a large Norway.
It has taken three years for the Norway to grow out the side that was encraoched by the Silver.
The dieback at root grafts/networking would be the cause of the slow growth on the south of the Norway.
I always advise to maintain rather than remove neighbouring trees for this very reason.
Like seperating siamese twins and one dies and the other is with out its missing parts.

Nice pruning and cable. I tend to prune a little harder. Drop crotching/thin and then tipping back.

Norway here is so inflexible but strong. When it breaks, it shatters.
Toughest tree to prune because it tends to have no interior limbs to prune back to. Just an umbrella.

Thanks for sharing

 

[Jman]

Ya, I would have to say I might have hit it a little bit harder because of the structure of the tree, but hey looks good. It's all really subjective and what the day calls for.

Why did you leave the through bolt on the cable long? Do you not cut it and peen the end so the nut doesn't back off? Also what is the reason you went with a J lag in the other side rather than having two through bolt?

 

[theXman]

Daniel,

I'm impressed with your video, i expected to see 8", 12" and maybe 20" cuts.

I really agree with the SIZE of your cuts. a few are a little stubby; but great job anyway.

perfect size I think, no way would I make more or bigger cuts.

cable is okay, maybe. I don't understand what I am seeing at 5:42 though; that is a deadend, right? Sometimes camera distorts things. looks like a dead end that is way too big for the cable and wound on loose, I don't understand what I am seeing.

also, the J-lag side, is it common grade cable and that side is hand wrapped with no dead end?

I think the leaders you picked are fine. yeah, maybe a few feet higher, but sometimes we don't like the diameter a few feet higher.

good job.

yes, he could have cut the eye bolt short, but not much of a big deal. maybe he did later anyway, i take some pictures sometimes before i cut things off.

 

[Frax]

I think Daniel explained the reasoning for the smaller diameter cuts very concisely - leaving an already stressed and probably not vigorously growing tree as much of a 'living' as possible. Meaning as much potential leaf surface as possible. It's the only way a tree can generate 'income' to repair damage and grow.
In our short growing season this is always on my mind before I start cutting. I look at the last few years growth to see how vigorous the tree appears to be and maybe I won't cut off as much as it seems like I should on a cabling job. I find once a HO gets the reasoning for the smaller cuts they accept it.

 

[theXman]

here is the number one reason for smaller cuts; most big cuts do not heal over before decay takes place. Anyone that has been working on trees for many years and has gotten to see first hand how a tree reacts after 15 to 30 years after a cut will know these things.

water sprouts, stress, and all the others things are negative too, but big cuts ultimately cause decay and a usually a weak tree on most species, so stop doing it people.

 

[jim454]

Pssst, X... you're not suppose to say the H word.

 

[theXman]

ha ha ha, oh yes, i see, sorry. Lol.

i won't edit my text though, i will leave my mistake.

substitute Compartmentalize for the heal word above.

Sorry, use to customer talking lately. If I say compartmentalize to a customer, it might loose them or add 20 minutes to the conversation.

 

[Daniel]

X,
are you OK????

You have me a little worried.. LOL

Its EHS 1/4" cable with proper dead ends on both sides.. I don't trim the thru bolts unless it is an issue of aesthetics. I'll also be less concerned about stubs when workign on branch tips.. I'd rather leave a stub, than violate the living tissue of the remaining limb... Stubs can always be pruned later, but you can't fix a bad cut the other direction...

The brits are on me a little for not using Cobra instead of the steel.. I must admit to being behind the times there.. I have yet to use cobra.. maybe its time to get with it.. in this case invasive steel is not going to be so much of a problem, but the situation is sure to come up..

 

[RopeShield]

Bigger cuts are necessary if the tree has a higher potential for a major failure.
Whats wrong with a little decay at the branch end, opposed to a larger failure approaching or at the main stem?

To rule out bigger cuts because of the smaller cut rule may lead someone to inneffectively reduce the hazard potential/rating of a tree.

Not trying to argue just explain that a larger cut may be may be called for.

After our recent storm the city is marked all kinds of trees for removal

. Just reduce the remaining tree so it does not fail and let it have another 10 or more years.

If they would have been reduced judiciously to begin with they wouldn't have failed .

 

[theXman]

[ QUOTE ]
Bigger cuts are necessary if the tree has a higher potential for a major failure.
Whats wrong with a little decay at the branch end, opposed to a larger failure approaching or at the main stem?

To rule out bigger cuts because of the smaller cut rule may lead someone to inneffectively reduce the hazard potential/rating of a tree.

Not trying to argue just explain that a larger cut may be may be called for.

After our recent storm the city is marked all kinds of trees for removal

. Just reduce the remaining tree so it does not fail and let it have another 10 or more years.

If they would have been reduced judiciously to begin with they wouldn't have failed .

[/ QUOTE ]


then just top everything to HELLL!!! It will buy you about 10 years before they rot or fail, maybe. But meanwhile, that topped tree would sure hold up to huricane winds. Especially for the first 2 years!

Yes, i get your point though, sometimes a big cut might be the best way. Not very often though and I spoke up because way too many tree companies around here will take off one or two big limbs to lighten a lot of weight because it's easier and they don't want to climb out to the tips where they should be trimming.

 

[RopeShield]

Yeah you are right on there!

We all try to avoid doing more harm.
It does happen though were the tree is less than what we wish.
Either way our vocation/creed is to favor the tree maintenance/longterm and not the removal/diservice.

Our struggles to do the right thing. Eh!

Hey! I have to admit with out saying it like a braggart.
I am pretty damn good with the pole saw and when finished doing a crown reduction the only thing that can be seen is that the tree looks smaller. Not all the time but I do my best.
My grandpa was a champion stick fighter, so when I'm up there I mean to be precise.

 

[Daniel]

I AM right with you both..

avoid the big cuts on the main stem at (almost) all costs... certainly on healthy trees, And when the customer insists on taking out a big limb for clearance or light or view, do not take the whole limb at the trunk, even if that means leaving a short stubby limb that looks bad...

If the tree has a serious structural issue, then yes, it may need to have the kind of weight removed that can only come from taking big wood.. In that case it is just buying the tree a few more years and keeping the property as safe as possible in the mean time.. Might be considered a partial removal, rather than "pruning".. takes experience and good judgment to know how and when to pull that off...