Preferred method for solo rigging

M

Mcsmith

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Location
Alexandria
I’m working with one or sometimes two man crews with guys who don’t have a ton of experience. Every so often I’ll work on my own with a homeowner near by in case of emergency but try to avoid that whenever I can have help. The guys I’ve been working with don’t have much experience so teaching where I can but also trying to keep the job moving while they are clearing the drop zone. I’ve used the tree for added friction if I have a crotch or stub to use. Have also used a Munter hitch or rescue 8 in some situations. I know there has to be better methods but on a limited budget what would be the best tools or techniques to look into? Mostly working in wide spread maples and similar.


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Quite a bit different. I haven't seen anyone do a side by side comparison but I think I saw them both offered as aerial friction devices in people's top three choices.

Downrigger is great because mid line attachable for one. Using rope about as long as your estimated longest drop you can hand lower pieces to the ground, grab the tail and set for the next lowering while previous limb is being disconnected on ground, slide open face plate and set rope for lowering - when pieces are similarly heavy. My favorite is lower a heavier piece with max friction, and have pre-selected a lighter piece that I can just attach now present tail to that is lighter as that side of rope has less friction restriction. (No need to open faceplate and re-route rope.) Then max friction tail of rope will be back up and ready for next heavy "turn".
 
I know this probably doesn't help in your situation, but I do training days once a week with my new guys. They seem to really appreciate it, and it helps me to address specific holes in their abilities. It's kind of a volunteer thing, but I have had 100% participation because they know it leads to them making more money.

That said, the safe block is a neat tool. If you have a small port a wrap, you can use it up in the tree. I tend to just take wraps or munter hitch when I rig by myself. Climb higher and take smaller pieces. Vertical speed line works well if there's somewhere to anchor to in the yard and you have a few slings.
 
Mick Dempsey said:
Are we talking about the climber lowering the piece himself to a person who can untie or solo working? Big difference.
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I do a bit of both. Most of the solo is side jobs that any rigging isn’t highly critical situations but just to add some help in tight spots. I don’t solo rig anything in a situation that would allow a major failure like large pieces over a house. Right now im teaming up with a lawn company with tons of clients who need tree work but the company doesn’t offer trees. So I climb and handle the bidding while the company sends guys out to drag brush and use their equipment/trucks to haul away debris. It’s a pretty sweet deal but I don’t get a ton of time with these guys to train them so it makes it more practical to rig solo what I can and let them untie or send up slings in between trips with brush.

I’d like to just look at it as if I’m on my own because the experience level of some of the guys is going to be low enough that I don’t want to risk them causing any other problems for me to solve.

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Interested in the safe block but also the idea of a small porty because I only have to rig a few pieces per tree for most of the trees I do and I have help that can untie the rope most of the time.


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ATH said:
How big of pieces are you lowering?
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It varies obviously but Sunday I rigged everything from 15ft limbs 4in diameter at big end to 6 ft long wood 8 in diameter. Mostly just friction from wraps on a stub just to swing away from a barn and camper into a better drop zone. No issues where I had a ground guy to untie each piece but friction wasn’t as constant as I’d like so that’s why I’m considering a device to take away that variable.


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Small, lightweight and midline attachable, I recently got the scarab (shown in the video above) very little use so far, but I'm liking it. One thing I really like over just using a rescue 8 is not having to take it off of the carabiner each time you want to go on and off the rope.
 
Lot of double- whip tackle with natural crotch friction.

Friction devices where I can't allow tree damage on keeper parts.

A sling and biner as s fairlead on a stub can hold the rope in a place on that stub that allows the friction-damaged area of stub to be cut with the final collar cut (keeps the rope out of the crotch, avoiding burning keeper parts of the tree on a prune job).
 
southsoundtree said:
Lot of double- whip tackle with natural crotch friction.

Friction devices where I can't allow tree damage on keeper parts.

A sling and biner as s fairlead on a stub can hold the rope in a place on that stub that allows the friction-damaged area of stub to be cut with the final collar cut (keeps the rope out of the crotch, avoiding burning keeper parts of the tree on a prune job).
Click to expand...

That’s an awesome idea and super simple. Thanks guys. Plenty to look into and try


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