Planted too deep

This is my first post on this forum. I feel this is the best tree care forum on the web so I finally decided to join so I could share information as well. I just went to The North Dakota Urban & Community Forestry Association's Tree Care Workshop on Wednesday and Thursday. I was blown away by two speakers, Ron Zillmer and Dan Traas. On Wednesday they did an all day lecture titled, "Twenty Minutes in the Life or Death of a Tree." The lecture uncovered the reasons why trees are being planted too deep even when being planted by professionals. I have always felt that I was on the cutting edge and never planted a tree too deep. After listening to their lecture I was thankful that most of my tree planting involved bare root stock. When planting B&B stock I had been doing so according to the University of Minnesota's recommendations of probing into the root ball with a piece of wire to detect where the first order roots were. First order roots were those at least the diameter of a pencil. Then the recommendation was to carefully remove the soil down to the first order roots and plant at that depth. After this lecture I know that I could still have been planting those trees too deep. The lecture revealed, after dismantling the root balls of a couple thousand dollars worth of B&B and field grown container stock, that all those trees had started to develop secondary root systems(adventitious roots). Some of the secondary root systems were larger than the actual root system. Many of the secondary roots were much larger than pencil width. They had examples of root systems where the tree had failed that showed secondary roots that were a couple of inches in diameter. Most of the trees, whose root balls were dismantled, had a system of roots that would only require the planting hole to be dug to a depth of eight inches. Their recommendations were to completely dismantle the root ball and examine what you have to work with for a root system, removing secondary roots when possible without killing the tree. Some of the trees primary root systems were already non-functional and the tree was being kept alive by the secondary root system. Those trees at that stage are already doomed to a much shorter life expectancy. The myth of not messing with the root ball was dispelled. They explained that the fine roots of the plant only live for fourteen days before dying or becoming a woody lateral. They used this to justify any loss of fine roots. They had been successfully planting trees using this method and those trees were establishing much faster than old method trees. They have been working on getting nurseries to correct this problem but until then we must adjust our planting methods. They lectured all day on Wednesday and kept a large audience captivated the whole time. I can't possibly cover the entire lecture under this forum but I believe I covered some of their main points. Both speakers have excellent credentials as well. If anyone else has seen them speak chime in. If you get a chance to see them speak I would highly recommend them. I am going to see the movie "Miracle" right now but I am interested to see what kind of discussion develops from this.

-Chris, forester by schooling and arborist by trade
 
Chris,

Welcome aboard!

Planting depth is an epidemic world wide. The worst part is that arbos are being called on more and more to try and fix a problem that was started when the tree was a whip.

Look at these links for more information:

http://www.cnr.umn.edu/FR/extension/StemGirdlingRoots.html

The MN ISA chapter along with the MN Nursery & Landscape Association made an execellent video on SGRs.

Tom
 
Thanks for the run down Chris. I'm glad I read it. It is nice to hear someone speak so highly of a workshop. Many don't like to admit how much they learned or liked what they saw.

Ron Zilmer is a good man to listen to. I spoke at a workshop at Midstate Tech that he organized that amazed me as well. The organization was great, the participation was high and everyone was well receptive to the ideas being shared. And, if you've never seen the indoor facility there, well let's just say it's really cool. I can't wait to be invited back again.
 
Thanks for the links Tom. The links provide an excellent source of information for identifying and treating trees that are afflicted with stem girdling roots. Zilmer was explaining that one way to identify secondary roots during the root examination was to note the roots orientation to the stem. Typically secondary roots come off the stem at a 90 degree angle(approximately). The first order roots are angled more. During the breaks a fellow arborist and I were looking at some of the samples and noted that the larger secondary roots had obvious branch collars, making them a dead give away. In order to thoroughly examine what you have for a root system you have to basically convert B&B and containerized stock into bare root at planting time. Even if the first order roots are positively detected through probing and removal of soil down to them there may still be some girdling roots developing below due to low oxygen concentrations. Another method he used to determine where the first order roots would be in the ball was to find the bud graft union and the root flare would be 6 inches below that. I agree that stem girdling roots and consequences of deep planting are issues that we arborists are going to be dealing with a lot more now that there is more awareness of this problem. I know the issue itself isn't new but it seems for many years that these complications have been written off and reasons for a tree's decline were due to "harsh urban conditions." I have only been doing tree work for seven years now but I can see I have a lot of work ahead of me in dealing with problems associated with deep planting. Hopefully more awareness and pressure on the nursery industry to improve packaging of root systems will put an end to deep planting.

-Chris
 
I live in an area with a relatively new urban forest with most urban trees non-native and less than fifty years old. It is amazing how many times I am called out to look at a tree and I can tell as soon as I get out of the truck that the poor devil has been planted too deep. Some of these pathetic specamins have been just struggling along for years. I need to become more proactive on this issue as it is my future bread and butta.
 
Seems to me that in any forset type tree (as aposed to riparian species) if the flair and First Order Roots are not left uncivered or at least maintained, there will be crossing roots that cause problems in the future.

Some riparian species can tolerate a certain amount of too deep.

I've talked with a few people who do root excavations ( I do a few) and the consensus is that if a tree is very deep on a landcape, we will need to mulch it in deep once the corrective excavation and root prunning is done. The have set a schedule to rugularly dig up the mulch to do it all over again.

Ron and Dan would say that they have infected you <g>.
 
In trees planted really deep why does the tree have to be mulched in deep after the pruning of secondary roots? Is this done to prevent the secondary roots from getting large enough to cause girdling problems but still allowing them to grow back and provide some additional uptake for the tree while the first order roots start to take on the bulk of the responsiblity like they are supposed to?(Sort of a long acclimation process). Or does this have something to do with the bark being exposed to the sun after being covered for so long? I am curious to know why the concensus is to mulch these trees in deep after the excavation and pruning process.

Thanks for the input.
-Chris
 
The reason fo muching and maintinance is that it is usually hard to taper a deep pit downso that it fits the landscape. so we end up having to cover the pit in a way that will not compromise the tree again.

I've used that coarse bark mulch and large stone, prefering the former for heat handling reasons.

I thought I had a pic of one of my pits, but cannot find it right now. Maybe once the snow's gone...
 

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