OP 10 and 8

JoeClimber

JoeClimber

Location
Madison, NH
OK, I understand that OP is a class 1 DB splice. Could someone shine some light on the cover taper for me. After counting each individual strand it appears I have come up with a 32 strand cover. If you cont the pairs as a single strand then obviously you have a 16 strand cover. This tells me that eight strands need to be cut for tapering. My question is how do I know which ones to count. I can find no instructions for this ANYWHERE! It is starting to drive me crazy. I have spliced up a few eye n eyes now with a 5,4,5,4 count and even one with a 4,3,4,3 count. I just want to know which is correct. Nick, can you help me out with this? Perhaps you may be able to help as well Chris. You are the DB master. I love the new invisible lock stitch method!
 
Hey Joe, I like the picture in your avatar, I recognize that place.

OP, as you know is a standard class 1 DB splice. The inner core (the kern) is all polyester and the cover (the mantle) is a combination of polyester and Aramid (Kevlar HM fiber).

Even though the rope is distributed by New England Ropes, they don’t provide splicing guidelines. I’ve provided a link to Teufelberger’s website which shows how they recommend splicing kernmantle ropes. Check out the cover taper that they show, and see if that might work better for you. Maybe some others here also have some suggestions?

http://www.teufelberger.com/uploads/tx_txconceptadownloads/Spleissanleitung_Kern_Mantelseil_01.pdf

I haven’t had a chance to splice OP yet, but I did just get some in yesterday from John down at Knot & Rope Supply. With my recent elbow surgery, I don’t know if my arm is ready to fight the bury in this rope just yet.

Glad to hear that you like the Brion Toss invisible lock stitch method. Funny that you should mention that. Jamie Goddard and I were just talking about that yesterday. Invisible lock stitch is great for your own stuff that you’re splicing, but if you were splicing stuff for other people, a Yale Whiplock would be better, so that they know it’s been lock stitched.
 
I have had good success with removing every 5th pair, and I also asked Rich at ABR and he has had good reults with 4,4,5,4. Good luck, happy splicing.
 
I checked the Teufelberger site again and their directions don't show what they recommend for a taper, unless I'm missing something?

If Richie H. says a 4,4,5,4 taper works well, then go with it. I've gotten spliced OP from him and from John at Knot and Rope and the things are the sexiest splices that I've ever seen. Awesome job guys!
 
Well I went with the 4,4,5,4 and they came out great! Take a look and let me know what you think. All have been stitched with the invisible lock stitching. I am now obsessed with this method now, thank you Mr. Girard! The 8 mm Ocean Dyneema was a bear but I ended up with a 29 inch eye n eye. 27 inch eye n eye 8 mm ocean poly and 16 ft 10 mm ocean poly lanyard.
 

Attachments

  • 271220-P1040241.webp
    271220-P1040241.webp
    56.3 KB · Views: 233
[ QUOTE ]
All have been stitched with the invisible lock stitching. I am now obsessed with this method now, thank you Mr. Girard!

[/ QUOTE ]

Joe, you are very welcome. Those look really nice, great job!

Scott, you wish that that lanyard was for you, but Joe's giving it to me...just kidding.
 
that is one sweet looking lanyard joe. i have been dabbling with op but havent been real successful yet im definately hoping to make a lanyard out of the stuff...i really like the hitchclimber as your micro pulley...
 
[ QUOTE ]
Where can I find invisible lock stitch instructions?

[/ QUOTE ]

Here you go. This is the link to Brion Toss' Education section on his website. Scroll down to number 4. and open up the pdf for double braid eye splice. You'll see the method for the invisible lock stitch method at the end, but read through the instructions to see how the yarn is pulled setting up for it later.


http://www.briontoss.com/education/index.html
 
Joe, did you have any issues with getting the fid past the two parts of the core, especially the small white portion?

Did you remove the second part (small white inner cover) or have to taper this part of the cover as well?

I dissected the OP line yesterday to get a better look at it and take a good look at the construction of that rope and that's when I really saw the workings of the Polyester and Aramid fibers inside this neat rope.
 
Worthaug, I got the OD from Knot and Rope Supply. Chris this is a very interesting rope construction that had me wondering, How is this going to work... I finally called and spoke with one of the guys there at knot and rope ( can't remember his name), but he explained to me that it was a class 1 db splice. I asked him about the middle layer and what to do with it. I was told nothing special, but to treat it as a normal class 1. It must be treated as if the inner and middle layer are one. I must say it is extremely difficult to do this without distorting one or the other. Even when simply extracting the core, but it can be done. Patience. It took me close to a total of 4 hours working on it on and off to splice up two more eye n eyes. Here is a the latest along w/ essentials to complete this tuff splice. I prefer a piano wire fid for this rope and a 4 inch marlingspike for extracting and picking the fibers.
 

Attachments

  • 271426-P1040250.webp
    271426-P1040250.webp
    76.6 KB · Views: 136
Just to be clear Ocean Dyneema and Ocean Polyester are two different animals by construction and of course color. Check out the pic. Which one are you referring to Chris?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Back
Top Bottom