One handed saw use and safety protocols

Before I begin, please can this thread not turn into an anti one handed saw use arguement, thats been done to death.
I think a lot of beginner climbers see more experienced climbers using a szaw one handed but dont pick up on the subtle safety precautions the climber SHOULD be aware of.
I'm not for 1 second advocating one handed saw use, but there are things we do consciously ot sub consciously that can make it a whole lot safer. heres a few that come to mind.

1.when ringing down i try and cut from the right to the left rather than holding the saw straight in front and cutting towards the back.....that goes for big saw use too.

2.If cutting and holding i will wait till the saw is in the wood and cutting before grabbing the branch. also start cutting at a lower revs.0

3.I try and position myself on the opposite side of the trunk to where im cutting.

4.Never one hand the saw when cutting with the top of the bar unless at arms reach.

5.Never cross arm over the saw to cut and hold, rather re-position and cut with the other arm.

im sure theres plenty more but im drawing a blank now!
 
6. I never cut with one hand if there is anything the saw bar and chain can come in contact with other than the limb I am cutting.
 
Good points steve and I'm sure you know what your up to. The methods you describe are similar, if not the same, to how I would use a saw in the tree. I use two hands when possible.

I have an analogy that has been going through my mind during other conversations/arguments on this subject.

When we are taught to drive, from maybe just 17years old, we are taught to keep our hands on the wheel at the "ten to two" position. We pass our test withought having been on a motorway, and sometimes not even ever having driven in the dark/wet.

The test that we pass proves that we are proficient in the basics and aware of dangers from other road users. We are then left (for the rest of our lives) to continue learning on our own. Insurance is higher when we are new drivers and goes down with age and/or lack of accidents.

We know that the most proffessional racing drivers drive in their own way, and that is their skill, built up over many years of experience.

Now Poeple will say things like "driving is a leisure activity" so not subject to health and safety at work protocol, however, taxi drivers, van drivers etc are all working but they are not expected to keep there hands at "ten to two" they've past their relative tests and are known to be proficient to drive in the manner that suits them.

Having said all that, I think that experienced climbers have a duty of care, and shouldn't pass on bad habits to newer climbers.
 
7. Don't allow any body part to go into the plain the saw is on when cutting with one hand. That is except the hand and wrist doing the cutting.
 
kevin.....cutting at high speed can cause the saw to skit(if thats the best word to describe it)across the branch, which i why i said about starting the cut at a lower rpm. once the saws in and cutting crank her up
 
[ QUOTE ]
1.when ringing down i try and cut from the right to the left rather than holding the saw straight in front and cutting towards the back.....that goes for big saw use too.


[/ QUOTE ]

What do you mean by "ringing" Steve? Similar to what we call "chunking" in the states? Cuttin' the spar down chunk by chunk? Just wanna make sure I am on the same page.
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Thanks,

Gary
 
kevin...i know what you;re saying. I'm talking about a subtle power change which probably takes place in a fraction of a seconf. again something that the inexperienced would be climber ovserving from the ground wouldnt pick up on.
oh and as for sharp chains at all times....goes without saying!!
 
This thread is a great idea!
Frankly, there aren't many climbers that can work within ANSI standards, so we need to get ideas out to help the less proficient majority.
A good example of silly ANSI rules is trimming without spikes. There aren't any climbers that trim trees without spikes, except maybe at competitions or something. So we need to give information about how to best trim with spikes on.
Another example is the stupid safety rules. Who climbs on ropes that don't break until 5000 pounds? That's so stupid. The hardware store doesn't even have anything that strong! Plus, I only weigh 200 pounds, WTF?
I could go on, but nobody reads long posts, so I'l stop now, but post a picture of a naked chick and your email, and I'll email you more good information on spiking trims with no safety stuff and only using one hand...
 
Uhh... Before I went and shot my mouth off, I should have noticed the IP address of each poster is right out there for everyone to see.
Had I known that, I would have turned my sarcasm filter on and the post would have read:
"The"
Anyway, I hope nobody traces my post back and figures out who wrote it...
 
After years of slinging chainsaws around like yo-yo's , tennis elbow like symptoms have forced me to be pretty dang compiant in using both hands. I rarely find a situation where it is impossible to use both. Where I am probably lax is working out of the bucket wrecking a tree in bite size pieces, cut and chucking.
 
mike, u bring up good points.
i personally limit damage by a good 50% on trims simply by spiking with only 1 spike.
i have a left legged spike for sale if u want?
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I was once forced to climb before my morning cup of coffee. I put my spikes on the wrong feet, so the spikes were on the outside of my feet. Perhaps if I buy that extra spike, I could wear two on one foot and really get around!
 
When using the saw one handed I try and operate it so that my body, limbs and ropes are outside the 'arch of kickback'. I'll aim to keep it to one side of my body or at right angles to my person.

Additionally when cutting and holding I'll use a pulling chain and do it where there is nothing below the branch being cut in the event I drop the saw.

I've heard a frontal labtomey from a chainsaw is quite uncomfortable, so I agree Rupe, we have a duty of care to new operators.
 

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