Oceans' Snowy Best

Dumb question, here, but what is the advantage of using the prussik instead of just clipping the rope through the biner? There is so much subtle stuff going on in this vid, I'm going to have to study it twenty times in order to try to understand it all. Thanks for producing the video and putting it out there, oceans.

Tim
 
TimBr said:
Dumb question, here, but what is the advantage of using the prussik instead of just clipping the rope through the biner? There is so much subtle stuff going on in this vid, I'm going to have to study it twenty times in order to try to understand it all. Thanks for producing the video and putting it out there, oceans.

Tim
Click to expand...
It's a great question, Tim. I wanted to bypass the limb entirely rather than climbing over it (that would have been ugly and difficult). With a carabiner clipped around the line and able to slide free, I would have just eventually met the ground when releasing the Bone.

By using the prusik, that connection won't slide. This allows one to transfer their load from the Primary System (in this case, the Bone), to the new connection (in this case, the prusik). Once the Bone is unloaded, it can be passed over the branch and connected back into.

I hope that made sense. :)
 
...OH, unless you're referring to the redirect with the sling/biner on the branch connected to the prusik...

In the case, it creates a static redirect. If I just put the biner around bare line, it would be a dynamic redirect and the resulting vector force would have lifted the branch considerably, potentially breaking it. By going the static route, the leg of line between the static redirect and the previous redirect serves to bolster the branch from being pulled downward and it creates something like a gin pole. The result is everything in nice compression and holding the vector in one place, rather than the vector changing as the branch moves up or down from loading the climbing line with your weight.

I hope that made sense too!
 
oceans said:
...OH, unless you're referring to the redirect with the sling/biner on the branch connected to the prusik...

In the case, it creates a static redirect. If I just put the biner around bare line, it would be a dynamic redirect and the resulting vector force would have lifted the branch considerably, potentially breaking it. By going the static route, the leg of line between the static redirect and the previous redirect serves to bolster the branch from being pulled downward and it creates something like a gin pole. The result is everything in nice compression and holding the vector in one place, rather than the vector changing as the branch moves up or down from loading the climbing line with your weight.

I hope that made sense too!
Click to expand...

Yes, this is the one I was referring to; thanks so much for both of your highly detailed answers. Like I said, there's so much going on, I'll need to watch it twenty times just to get warmed up.

I really appreciate you taking the time. Now I have at least two scenarios in that video to study harder.

Thanks again.

Tim
 
TimBr said:
Yes, this is the one I was referring to; thanks so much for both of your highly detailed answers. Like I said, there's so much going on, I'll need to watch it twenty times just to get warmed up.

I really appreciate you taking the time. Now I have at least two scenarios in that video to study harder.

Thanks again.

Tim
Click to expand...
Thanks for all that, Tim. For real. It's funny to think about stuff I try when I'm climbing. Sometimes it's good, and other times it's not, but it's all part of my own learning process. Just have to remember things you've tried and when to apply them and when not to. I'm lucky to have had the freedom to try these things without someone telling me I can't, or shouldn't, or whatever. Eventually, you're playing around with employing all sorts of tricks without thinking about it.
 
TreeLogic said:
Good stuff E. Great videography and technical prowess. :numberone:
Click to expand...
Man, thanks, Will! The video editing can make you crazy sometimes. Makes me think of what could have been cut out of any 3 minute pop song...folks trying to keep things so short without losing the whole idea. Thanks for all your support, bud.
 
oceans said:
...OH, unless you're referring to the redirect with the sling/biner on the branch connected to the prusik...

In the case, it creates a static redirect. If I just put the biner around bare line, it would be a dynamic redirect and the resulting vector force would have lifted the branch considerably, potentially breaking it. By going the static route, the leg of line between the static redirect and the previous redirect serves to bolster the branch from being pulled downward and it creates something like a gin pole. The result is everything in nice compression and holding the vector in one place, rather than the vector changing as the branch moves up or down from loading the climbing line with your weight.

I hope that made sense too!
Click to expand...


After I read this post and watched the video a few more times I totally get it. Brilliant Never would have thought of that. You sir have mad skillz.
 
oceans said:
...OH, unless you're referring to the redirect with the sling/biner on the branch connected to the prusik...

In the case, it creates a static redirect. If I just put the biner around bare line, it would be a dynamic redirect and the resulting vector force would have lifted the branch considerably, potentially breaking it. By going the static route, the leg of line between the static redirect and the previous redirect serves to bolster the branch from being pulled downward and it creates something like a gin pole. The result is everything in nice compression and holding the vector in one place, rather than the vector changing as the branch moves up or down from loading the climbing line with your weight.

I hope that made sense too!
Click to expand...
I got that thimble prussic after this video when you first posted it. What a handy tool for redirects and grapple transfers. Once again, great climbing Eric
 
Steve Connally said:
After I read this post and watched the video a few more times I totally get it. Brilliant Never would have thought of that. You sir have mad skillz.
Click to expand...
Thanks Steve. One thing about that redirect was that I never unweighted my primary system to connect to it. That was a long and thin enough limb that I wouldn't have wanted to lanyard in and disconnect.
 
MikePowers321 said:
I got that thimble prussic after this video when you first posted it. What a handy tool for redirects and grapple transfers. Once again, great climbing Eric
Click to expand...
It's a silly useful tool. Too many uses to list. I'd like to see a grapple thread. ;)
 
Oh, snap. Nice design. Are you able to rotate/lower the rope to convince that to spin to the proper orientation to hook after it has passed over a limb?
 
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