Ocean Polyester eye and eye

figuredwood · Oct 29, 2012

OK... about to try my first Ocean Polyester splice (8mm). I have heard that it is OK to follow Samson's Double Braid Class 1 instructions for this. One question: what is the minimum sling length for this splice?

Samson's instruction book states that "the minimum eye and eye sling length with Class 1 DB is 5 fid lengths from extraction mark x to extraction mark x". That would make for a minimum prusik cord length of 33 3/4" plus the lengths of the eyes, given a fid length for 8mm of 6.75". That seems long.

Do these same minimums hold for Ocean Polyester using these splicing instructions?

Also, I was having trouble figuring the strand count of the cover... how have people been marking the tapers in this splice.

Thanks,
Jason

Martin_Nemec · Oct 29, 2012

I spliced for my friend tail for jumar from Tendon 10mm, long 52cm, DB Clas.1 without any seriozly trouble.

NickfromWI · Oct 30, 2012

Not sure how to best explain how I do it, but here it goes...

If you look close, each OP strand is actually 2 skinnier strands running parallel side by side, never crossing eachother. It's a 2-carrier rope.

When marking my tapers, I only pull 1 of the carriers of each strand, going in each direction. The end result is that I still am pulling and removing 50% of the cover strands in making my taper, but I'm leaving behind enough of the strands going in each direction that I don't have to worry about the weave coming apart. The first few times I was splicing OP I was having trouble with the whole cover tail coming apart on me when I was using "standard" taper counting methods.

love
nick

MooseHead · Oct 30, 2012

I like it Nick! Great idea on the taper.

figuredwood · Oct 30, 2012

Thanks for the great idea Nick. That would probably work on something like Tenex TEC too, wouldn't it?

When you do your OP taper do you mark every 5th pair of strands, but only take one carrier strand out of each direction at that point?

Thanks,

Jason

Martin_Nemec · Oct 30, 2012

Thank you Nick, for your explanation and help!

NickfromWI · Nov 2, 2012

No, I don't mark every 5th, I mark every other. Lemme go mark one up and take a pic, hold on...

(get it...a PIC!)

NickfromWI · Nov 2, 2012

Alright, here's what I got. It's a 16 strand cover, so you end up taking out 8 strands. This makes a tight compact taper which keeps the splice short so you can make eye-eye slings.

If you were doing a lanyard or some other function I would stretch this out a bit to make a longer more gradual taper.

love
nick

figuredwood · Nov 2, 2012

Thanks Nick for the explanation and the "pic", now I don't feel so "strand"ed with figuring this taper out. That's an interesting way of doing the taper with all one direction of strands first, then all the other direction after. Any advantages of doing it that way instead of alternating right and left?

figuredwood · Nov 4, 2012

Would that style of taper need to start farther toward the tail than 8 strands because it is so much more abrupt than removing the double strand each direction every 5 strands?

jf1962 · Nov 4, 2012

Like always Nick ,You the master at this stuff .. Later in SO-CAL

NickfromWI · Nov 6, 2012

[ QUOTE ]
...That's an interesting way of doing the taper with all one direction of strands first, then all the other direction after. Any advantages of doing it that way instead of alternating right and left?

[/ QUOTE ]

It just made it easier for me to see what I was doing. Just helped to keep it clear. You'll never notice a difference one way or the other. The main trick was just taking 1 carrier rather than a full pair.

[ QUOTE ]
Would that style of taper need to start farther toward the tail than 8 strands because it is so much more abrupt than removing the double strand each direction every 5 strands?

[/ QUOTE ]

That will only accomplish making the overall thing longer than you want it to be.

You MIGHT be able to make your sling a tad stronger if you push the taper down further, but I think we'd be splitting hairs.

Personally I'd be happy with something that is "only" 92% efficient, yet came out the exact length I needed rather than 3" longer.

love
nick

figuredwood · Nov 7, 2012

Thanks Nick

figuredwood · Nov 7, 2012

I ended up using Samson's instructions (Class 1 DB) with Nick's excellent taper trick, and Brion Toss' trick of pulling out a single cover yarn at mark R to lock stitch the finished splice with. Because of that I removed single carrier strands in only seven of the strands in the first direction. I also stitched the core over cover with spare whipping twine at the crossover to tighten it for the final bury from Brion Toss' instructions.

I noticed that Brion Toss recommends 24x the rope diameter for the bury, but Samson's fid length is 21x rope diameter.

The cord came out a bit too long, so I'm thinking of break testing it if I can find someone nearby with a dynamometer.

figuredwood · Nov 7, 2012

Cover bury

figuredwood · Nov 7, 2012

Core taper (50% in one spot - Samson's instructions)

figuredwood · Nov 7, 2012

Core taper at end

figuredwood · Nov 7, 2012

Finished eyes with lock-stitch from cover yarn.

Any critique would be very much appreciated...

If I manage to get this break-tested, I'll be sure to post the result here...

Jman · Nov 7, 2012

Looks really good. If you use safety pins to mark rather than a marker you can get your splices to looks really clean. Other than that keep it up and let us know how your break test goes.

Tr33Climb3r · Nov 8, 2012

[ QUOTE ]
Looks really good. If you use safety pins to mark rather than a marker you can get your splices to looks really clean.

[/ QUOTE ]

I do this as well. Works really well.