novice saddles

I'm planning on investing in my first saddle and looking for some advice. I recently began regularly climbing in a VoTech course a few months ago and will continue with my job this coming summer. I'm interested in a more advanced saddle, one with a sliding D and replaceable bridge. I've had both the Butterfly and the Cougar suggested to me by friends of mine who climb.

I know that personal preference is a primary factor in this decision, but wondering if all you out there who have been there and done that have any suggestions or advice?

also, brand suggestions for one's first climbing line? I'm looking to do some practice with a traditional system
 
if your able to try saddles out before you buy them. Things i like in a saddle are a floating bridge and adjustable leg loops. how tall of trees are you going to be climbing? if they are in the 100+ range you'll need a 200 ft rope, but if they are less 150 ft should do. The safety blue has always been one of my favorite 16 strand ropes. And get a split tail!
 
everybody need to practice with a traditional system what if you drop something, what if you cut your split tail in the tree,or leave something at home?
shocked.gif
new school rocks but knowing old school well could save your life.
 
Bosun seats are a nice addition to your climbing harness. I personally would not give it up. Especially if you plan to spend alot of time hanging in your harness. The price is a little more but (in my opinion) worth the investment. Check out the Dragonfly II.
 
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everybody need to practice with a traditional system what if you drop something, what if you cut your split tail in the tree,or leave something at home?
shocked.gif
new school rocks but knowing old school well could save your life.

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Your right Jeff, knowing old skool is very valuable. But, the split tail is a great addition once you have mastered the traditional style.
 
Thanks for the input, all.

Being in the midwest, most of my climbing will be less than 100 ft. My plan now is to just practicing a closed system in my spare time until I start working (which is in about 2 weeks). I would like to get into a split-tail setup soon, but understand the need to get the traditional system down.

This is also part of a homework assignment for my climbing class, so the info is doubly appreciated. I'll be posting a few more questions on here for my class, but I know I'll be frequently this website long after the class is over
 
Crap, I am so jealous that you get to go to climbing class and here I am working on a presentation (well, avoiding one) for conservation biology. Sigh.
 
me and a couple guys have been having this discussion too and personaly i train new guys the system im climbing on which is a michocaun with a pulley and a extender and encourage them to climb on a more advanced saddle theres no reason to teach these guys traditional ways or get traditional belts if we all know that the new gear is more advanced and better for your body,production ect.
but thats just my opinion
 
Mike, I disagree. Every climber should know how to make a saddle out of rope (bowline on a bight) and climb with a closed tautline or blake's system in case of emergency.

Training guys on the Michoacán w/pulley is all good, but I would also make sure they can get up a tree and perform a rescue with only rope.

-Tom
 
I respectfully disagree as well. I learned on the split tail system and I regularly climb on that as well as an eye and eye
with either the Swabisch or the Distel and a micropulley. Even with these advances I climb more than half the time with just a rope, bowline directly onto my d-ring and tying a Blake's with the tail. I love new techniques and I love checking out some tree porn (Sherrill). There is, however, no excuse for any climber, or climber in training, to be unable to get in and out of a tree with nothing but a hank of Hi-vee. It's kind of like learning to read before you learn haiku. First things first.
 
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Even with these advances I climb more than half the time with just a rope, bowline directly onto my d-ring and tying a Blake's with the tail.

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The Bowline is NOT an ANSI approved termination knot for your D ring. You need a cinching knot like an Anchor Hitch.

But your point about needing to know the basics is well founded.


SZ
 
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also, brand suggestions for one's first climbing line? I'm looking to do some practice with a traditional system

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No question. Tachyon.




SZ
 
Cougar saddle. Been climbing for a year on a two d ring hip crusher, and just bought a cougar. Found a place on the web that had it for 189, called Sherrill Tree to take them up on their price match, and got it for 160. What you save on the saddle spend on your rope,I'm not about to wade into what kind, except to say as a beginner I've climbed Poison Ivy, Blaze, and Tachyon, and I now own Tachyon, and probably always will. Ignore the experts and professionals here saying you should learn a closed system first, a split tail is just plain easier, and therefore safer. When I learned to drive I didn't immediately start on the old farm truck you had to double clutch to shift.

Tim
 
You are right about the bowline not being a certified termination knot EasyPhloem. When using the split tail system I always use either an anchor hitch or a double fishermans loop. I was under the impression (from my boss) that it is ok to use the bowline in the traditional climbing system because it does not "terminate" the line, it only acts as a link to separate the friction hitch from the rest of the line. I (and he) could certainly be very wrong. Thoughts?
 
crl when i climb old school i use a yosemite bowline, which the tail exits from the back of the knot. it is perfectly safe. i like using old school for yo yo work. just bt up and go to work. there was a guy climbing old school at southern chapter no micro pulley and he was fast. cool cat too. ez what was mat's last name?
 
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Ignore the experts and professionals here saying you should learn a closed system first, a split tail is just plain easier, and therefore safer.
Tim

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Tim, I think we are all just saying that a new climber should KNOW it for safety's sake to perform AR with only a rope, and not necessarily to learn to climb on it. At least that's what I was saying. Cheers,

-Tom
 
The situation you describe avoids the risk of the bowline untying, but it does not resolve the problem with side-loading biners. If you are tying into a snap with a fixed eye (or a captive-eye biner, for that matter), I think it's fine, but if you tie into a regular carabiner you need to cinch down on it so it can't get turned sideways. A bowline could still work if the loop were large enough to girth hitch onto the biner.

I think. I am not an expert on this.
 

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