Waldo
Participating member
- Location
- Portland, OR
What system do you guys use? tree gaurd? Branch saver? Cobra? Is there a difference between the systems?
Non invasive cabling
- Thread starter Waldo
- Start date
guymayor
Branched out member
- Location
- East US, Earth
I use steel mostly, so I'm no help. It's less invasive than one cut from pruning off a mature branch, so it's not a big issue imo.
flyingsquirrel25
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- South East, PA
I use Cobra where synthetics are recommended. I believe the only big difference is the splices and the shock absorber. But I havent used the other two.
Branch saver is easy peasy to install. I did a small hanfull of cobra in college and it seemed a bit more cumbersome than the branch saver.
Great...now you clowns can screw your clients over...in record time.
jomoco
jomoco
- Location
- pitts pa
i have seen the non invasive cabling get chewed through by squirrels !!! always makes me question using it . ????
mdvaden
Participating member
- Location
- Beaverton. Oregon
[ QUOTE ]
i have seen the non invasive cabling get chewed through by squirrels !!! always makes me question using it . ????
[/ QUOTE ]
Actually, the word "invasive" to me, may be a misused figure of speech.
Invasive, or invading, are selective vocabulary words, predetermined in place of others like "inserted", etc..
Personally, I would very satisfied if another arborist strategically inserted and attached hardware to my trees. There's just something about good old time-tested metal fasteners and wire rope that makes me more confident.
It also looks like less of a bandage or eye sore in my opinion.
I can support both options depending on where they are used, but for my own preference. I like the anchored method.
...
i have seen the non invasive cabling get chewed through by squirrels !!! always makes me question using it . ????
[/ QUOTE ]
Actually, the word "invasive" to me, may be a misused figure of speech.
Invasive, or invading, are selective vocabulary words, predetermined in place of others like "inserted", etc..
Personally, I would very satisfied if another arborist strategically inserted and attached hardware to my trees. There's just something about good old time-tested metal fasteners and wire rope that makes me more confident.
It also looks like less of a bandage or eye sore in my opinion.
I can support both options depending on where they are used, but for my own preference. I like the anchored method.
...
I agree, Cobra and such have their place, in citrus orchards, on a seasonal basis.
But that's about it in my opinion. As a replacement for steel cabling systems in arboriculture? More of a joke, or a ticking time bomb, that will land the arborist using it in court sooner or later.
Time will tell the sad story.
jomoco
But that's about it in my opinion. As a replacement for steel cabling systems in arboriculture? More of a joke, or a ticking time bomb, that will land the arborist using it in court sooner or later.
Time will tell the sad story.
jomoco
- Location
- Southington, CT
I have been cabling trees for many now! used to in the beginning do the lags, pain in the arse and IMO not as strong a anchor. Using the preformed grips and hand wrap when needed with eye bolts all the way through the leaders. I have never had a single problem ever. I have seen other problems when not installed correctly, like not spreading the thimble so it doesnt allow the grip to slack off then rubs on the eye and soon enough you have a failure. Makes me think why they havent designed a stronger fail proof preformed grip. but if installed correctly should last a long time, The tree will grow so tall that you may need to re cable and prune years later. But as for the synthetics, its a nice approach to try to eliminate wounding the tree but I have seen pictures of girdling nightmares... I like my steel! Years of PROOF it works great!
guymayor
Branched out member
- Location
- East US, Earth
I saw a cobra in a eucalyptus girdle it in 4 years.
But I helped Tom Dunlap install TreeSave cable in a maple for my client and it worked well (until fungus killed the tree).
But for me through-cabling is minimally invasive, lasts ~30 years, and is easy to install w wedgegrips or rigguys.
As with all tools it is up to the user to make it work.
But I helped Tom Dunlap install TreeSave cable in a maple for my client and it worked well (until fungus killed the tree).
But for me through-cabling is minimally invasive, lasts ~30 years, and is easy to install w wedgegrips or rigguys.
As with all tools it is up to the user to make it work.
NickfromWI
Participating member
- Location
- Los Angeles, CA
I use Guardian. It's super fast to install. Run it through the sleeve, form the splice, bam. Done. Pick up your check and get the heck outta there before the limb fails!
Treespotter
New member
- Location
- Houten, The Netherlands
Marine mooring rope, various strengths, spliced in place.
I love the simplicity.
Pruning for structural self support, mooring rope for (just in case) safety.
I love the simplicity.
Pruning for structural self support, mooring rope for (just in case) safety.
- Location
- Netherlands
The branch saver actually looks a lot like the Gefa ropes we use here.
Works perfect any time and it is nice you can even adjust it after several years. It won't last for 30 years, but I kind of like to check out trees I have cabled more often to keep 'm safe and sound.
Before the Gefa I used the same as Treespotter and that works great as well, a little uncomfortable in winter to make a 3 strand splice with cold hands ;-)
The cobra cabling system has let me down twice and I will def never use it again. When there is a drop load it will sure hold tight, when the load is evenly and slowly pulling the cobra cabling the splices just will come out easy as that. And I spliced it all conform splicing instruction.
Just too smooth surface and not enough bite is what makes it less secure for all I found out in two cases where the cabling failed.
I think we all know what suits best for each job and the cabling should allways be a method for providing extra security. Pruning is the way to deal with the mechanical overload reduction and keep 'm safe IMO
Climb safe
Wouter
Works perfect any time and it is nice you can even adjust it after several years. It won't last for 30 years, but I kind of like to check out trees I have cabled more often to keep 'm safe and sound.
Before the Gefa I used the same as Treespotter and that works great as well, a little uncomfortable in winter to make a 3 strand splice with cold hands ;-)
The cobra cabling system has let me down twice and I will def never use it again. When there is a drop load it will sure hold tight, when the load is evenly and slowly pulling the cobra cabling the splices just will come out easy as that. And I spliced it all conform splicing instruction.
Just too smooth surface and not enough bite is what makes it less secure for all I found out in two cases where the cabling failed.
I think we all know what suits best for each job and the cabling should allways be a method for providing extra security. Pruning is the way to deal with the mechanical overload reduction and keep 'm safe IMO
Climb safe
Wouter
But Wouter, surely you agree that once you make the decision to cable a tree, it can, and will at some point become dependent on that cable for life to maintain structural integrity?
Which makes the lifespan of your cabling system the primary consideration if you want to avoid catastrophic failure of which ever section of the tree you've cabled?
We know some trees go way beyond 500 years in age. If you're using a material weaker than the tree itself both in terms of strength and longevity by a huge factor? That has to be baby sat, adjusted, maintained and replaced every 2-5 years?
I've got lots of cabling systems still holding and intact I ain't seen in over twenty years. Because if they'd failed I'd know real quick cuz they've known me for 40 years.
The logic behind replacing a cabling system known to last 3 decades and more if installed professionally, with a weak synthetic system unable to match the champs durability and imperviousness to such a wide range of threats to a system's ability to withstand their onslaught for decades?
Well let's just say it's anything but logical, or in the long term interests of either the tree or your client.
The only one who profits from peddling snake oil is the charlatan peddling it.
Just my opinion of course as a tree advocate/lover.
jomoco
Which makes the lifespan of your cabling system the primary consideration if you want to avoid catastrophic failure of which ever section of the tree you've cabled?
We know some trees go way beyond 500 years in age. If you're using a material weaker than the tree itself both in terms of strength and longevity by a huge factor? That has to be baby sat, adjusted, maintained and replaced every 2-5 years?
I've got lots of cabling systems still holding and intact I ain't seen in over twenty years. Because if they'd failed I'd know real quick cuz they've known me for 40 years.
The logic behind replacing a cabling system known to last 3 decades and more if installed professionally, with a weak synthetic system unable to match the champs durability and imperviousness to such a wide range of threats to a system's ability to withstand their onslaught for decades?
Well let's just say it's anything but logical, or in the long term interests of either the tree or your client.
The only one who profits from peddling snake oil is the charlatan peddling it.
Just my opinion of course as a tree advocate/lover.
jomoco
Me n the boys put up 4 new lines yesterday to replace a @5 yr old system. 2 of the 4 old lines were left in...we loosened the splices a bit. Large silver maple near stillwater, mn.
- Location
- Netherlands
There is a mayor difference in cabling for supporting branches or cabling for safety of the environment.
If I cable a tree with a teared open branch fork it will sure be with steel cable and permanent for the rest of the trees life. No soft materials last that long and you don't want to re install everything every 5 or 10 years.
For heavy arms with doubts after pruning and houses or public place under the crown we like to make an extra safe situation by installing a storm cable. A cable that will support the branch on extreme situations where possible break could take place.
This type of cabling is for safety precaution only and we don't want the trees to be affected in any sort of way installing it. It's a bit dynamic as well so it will give optimal support and less stess to the wood.
For every case there's a scenario to go with and in our overpopulated and small country with a neighbour under almost every tree we do a lot of cabling just to keep the neighbours safe with storms and prevent things to go really wrong.
For permanent cabling to preserve the tree we do the old skool cabling with iron rods, steel wire and trough and trough holes. But that happens only every year once or twice...last year I did a 100meters safety cabling with the gefa material and only 5 meters of steel wire in a small cherry tree that broke in two after a storm.
Different countries different trees and sure some different approach.
Climb safe
If I cable a tree with a teared open branch fork it will sure be with steel cable and permanent for the rest of the trees life. No soft materials last that long and you don't want to re install everything every 5 or 10 years.
For heavy arms with doubts after pruning and houses or public place under the crown we like to make an extra safe situation by installing a storm cable. A cable that will support the branch on extreme situations where possible break could take place.
This type of cabling is for safety precaution only and we don't want the trees to be affected in any sort of way installing it. It's a bit dynamic as well so it will give optimal support and less stess to the wood.
For every case there's a scenario to go with and in our overpopulated and small country with a neighbour under almost every tree we do a lot of cabling just to keep the neighbours safe with storms and prevent things to go really wrong.
For permanent cabling to preserve the tree we do the old skool cabling with iron rods, steel wire and trough and trough holes. But that happens only every year once or twice...last year I did a 100meters safety cabling with the gefa material and only 5 meters of steel wire in a small cherry tree that broke in two after a storm.
Different countries different trees and sure some different approach.
Climb safe
guymayor
Branched out member
- Location
- East US, Earth
"Just my opinion of course as a tree advocate/lover."
Jon, how does this jive jibe with your oft-stated policy of condemning every tree with visible fungal growth? One view of that ignorance-based policy is that it's snake oil, you charlatan!
As you can see, it's not very nice to call arborists in different regions charlatans. Dynamic is common in europe; that's how the standard is written. most systems i saw there were functioning well.
San Diego is not The Earth, just one little corner of it.
Jon, how does this jive jibe with your oft-stated policy of condemning every tree with visible fungal growth? One view of that ignorance-based policy is that it's snake oil, you charlatan!
As you can see, it's not very nice to call arborists in different regions charlatans. Dynamic is common in europe; that's how the standard is written. most systems i saw there were functioning well.
San Diego is not The Earth, just one little corner of it.
Oh I get it, that twisted false logic that states supporting a tree/ limb just a little bit under duress does not weaken it just a little bit compared to its unsupported brethren?
I get that you guys buy that crap. It's just that I don't. I still firmly believe that no tree/ limb should ever be cabled unless it has a real identifiable structural defect?
How long before you just throw a few rubber bands on the trees structure in half an hour rather spending 4 hours in it giving it a proper class one prune?
jomoco
I get that you guys buy that crap. It's just that I don't. I still firmly believe that no tree/ limb should ever be cabled unless it has a real identifiable structural defect?
How long before you just throw a few rubber bands on the trees structure in half an hour rather spending 4 hours in it giving it a proper class one prune?
jomoco
