Richard Mumford-yoyoman
Been here a while
- Location
- Atlanta GA
With my history, my dermatologist will vigorously disagree, even with SPFmax.....and simply let Richard have his much deserved moment in the sun.
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With my history, my dermatologist will vigorously disagree, even with SPFmax.....and simply let Richard have his much deserved moment in the sun.
I have found with the straight leg going down to the DogBone and tying it with a Stevedor stopper knot, It is very easy to maintain extra tension In the initial tie off. Now as we know the Arimid fibers generally used don't stretch but it will tend to settle and elongate some. When that happens, the Stevedore stopper knot is so easy to open and re-snug that I don't find it any kind of an issue. Love me a hitch.Way way back, back when lava on earth was still cooling, I played around with the HH original. One of the things I found was, with both my left hands, it was hard to get the last/ top hitch leg snugged/ shortened enough to keep a compact hitch once weighted. My neat little hitch became elongated. I have found myself wondering if some sort of on off hasp or locking mechanism couldn't be fitted to one end of the "bone" to allow easier on/ off of a pre-tied stopper knot maybe, sorta. Other end is left with cord threaded and stopper tied. Maybe faster and less prone to errors while yackin' before going up. OK, daft idea. Back to single malt . . . . .
(As I age these gear hallucinations are becoming less frequent . . . )
Exactly, and it allows such personal preference to enter the scene. Spring tension for engagement is such a critical component but I'm not aware of any mechanical devices that allow for adjustment of the spring.I find if you just pull a bit past where you think you should before tying the stevedore, it all settles into place nice and snug.
I'm always against elastic things that can bust me in the face if something gives. If it's going over your shoulder, it will recoil on that path if the clip breaks for whatever reason. If you're going over your shoulder, perhaps just use your lanyard.Hello Camdo,
I’m not nearly as experienced as most on this forum…so take this for what it’s worth.
I simply have an elastic rope and clip that goes from the back of my harness, over my shoulder, and on to the HHxF.
Sometimes it slips off when I don’t want it to, but it works well. The length is adjustable so the elasticity and desired tension (pull) work perfectly when climbing.
That is one high end neck tether! That fancy DMM carabineer is so much over kill!I use a neck tether for everything and never have any problems with abrasion, including with the HHXF. Just pick a nice thick soft rope for your tether. Mine looks like this:
Phil,I'm always against elastic things that can bust me in the face if something gives. If it's going over your shoulder, it will recoil on that path if the clip breaks for whatever reason. If you're going over your shoulder, perhaps just use your lanyard.
... I am not sure if tether connection to suspenders is a good idea because of the various contortions and back leans that climbers take. Has anyone tried this setup? Any opinions if it will work well?
Then definitely don't use a neck tether. There are plenty of other hazards coming at you doing tree work and to me, this one seems pretty low risk. Also a stiff collar can choke you if you're unconscious.Anything around the neck is a chocking concern. More so with a slider to take up slack.
Actually I use Petzl Secur which attaches to the back of my harness, it along with an adjustable bridge on my Edelrid harness gives me the ability to adjust the multiscender for tension/slack while rope walking. It is one hand adjustable and also serves as suspenders, attached to the SRT connection on the harness, when not being used as attending device.I am wondering about the optimum way to tether HHxF. In videos, Richard uses a neck tether with a sliding buckle. I am concerned about neck skin abrasion, comfort, and two hands necessary to adjust slack. Instead of a neck loop, would it be more advantageous to break the loop and sew each end to a pair of suspenders approximately at shoulder height? The configuration would have two detachable buckles near the sewn connection points, and a sliding buckle slack adjuster. I am not sure if tether connection to suspenders is a good idea because of the various contortions and back leans that climbers take. Has anyone tried this setup? Any opinions if it will work well?