Needing a bigger saw.

rico said:
Sounds like you need to go work with a pro faller/bucker and learn how to properly buck logs Colb. Alway go get that far side wood first, then work your saw over the top, and then work your kerf to create space for you bar. Right on through without ever pulling your saw out or pulling a bunch of wood fibre, which is a real no-no in my world. Easy parcheezy!!

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A great skill to develop. I’d argue it’s also safer and more predictable too.
I’ve gotten so use to doing it this way I often cut aerial wood that’s not vertical this way.
 
evo said:
True that it is nose heavy for sure with a stock bar. Hoping to get a fancy pants bar if and when I pick one up.

Walked into the local saw shop, they want a few hundred more than any other dealers within a 30 minute commute. Add icing to the nail, the tech behind the counter was wearing a hack competitors tee shirt. Made a few comments and turned on my heals. Looks like I’ll be burying my goods online or in bulk from the mainland.

They are the reason why I started working on my own saws, so no real loss.
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3 reasons to buy a 395XP-

1. In stock form it has more grunt and chain speed. It will also out pull and out perform the 661, and generally spank its narrow ass.
2.Its cheaper!
3. Its a simple, tried and true design. No fucking computer chips, or new fangled bullshit to go wrong. An on/off switch, a manual choke, and a compression button. Thats it. You can actually adjust your carb without seeking out the assistance of a super expensive saw tech with a super special machine to tune your fucking saw. Imagine that? I myself am in the process of buying up some of the 3 series Husky's (372XP, 390XP, 395XP) before they go the way of the dinosaurs.
 
rico said:
Sounds like you need to go work with a pro faller/bucker and learn how to properly buck logs Colb. Alway go get that far side wood first, then work your saw over the top, and then work your kerf to create space for you bar. Right on through without ever pulling your saw out or pulling a bunch of wood fibre, which is a real no-no in my world. Eazy parcheezy!!

Click to expand...

That does look easy... you put that thing on saw horses? ;) Seriously though, nice technique and wicked fast. I'll try it out next time a big straight pine is forced on me. I just can't help but wonder if it translates to urban hardwoods that are not milled to lumber, but I'll definitely practise it to find out.

Btw, my grandfather and great grandpops were pnw loggers. Might have mentioned that before. It would be nice to experience their and your environment first hand.
 
This style of bucking works on anything. Softwoods, hardwoods, bucking for lumber or firewood, top binds or bottom binds. You just have to read the binds and adjust accordingly.

You ever get to talk to your gramps or great gramps about the old days Colb? I love hanging out with legit old-timers and talk logging. It seems I always walk away with some extremely useful long forgotten tip or trick.
 
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evo said:
A great skill to develop. I’d argue it’s also safer and more predictable too.
I’ve gotten so use to doing it this way I often cut aerial wood that’s not vertical this way.
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The only way to buck.....funny how I have no real mentor and am mostly self taught. I watch people use saws and cringe. I am so thankful my mind works the way it does......
 
rico said:
This style of bucking works on anything. Softwoods, hardwoods, bucking for lumber or cutting firewood. You just have to read the binds and adjust accordingly.
You ever get to talk to your gramps or great gramps about the old days Colb? I love hanging out with legit old-timers and talk logging. It seems I always walk away with some extremely useful long forgotten tip or trick.
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I only cut hardwoods and it works a damn charm I dear say.
 
hseII said:
If 36” was the main bar length, I’d go MS661R.

If over that, 395.

I personally run a 32” on Ported 461Rs but I’m goo
Chain Speed = chain speed as long as the power head has the Stones to pull it.


If you were going with a 41” B&C, I’d go with the 395, but the 661 weighs noticeably less.

A 661R will pull & oil a 36” adequately after you knock the Oiler pin in.

0.063” chain is your friend on the longer bars.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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How does one knock the oiler in? I don't know where my manual is. I've been milling with a 42" bar and need all the oil I can get.

Why do you want 063?
 
evo said:
Torque is king, but when felling sketchy big stuff I need speed as well. Chasing a barber chair, or out cutting a barber chair is one big reason. Bucking wood I need torque...
3/4 wraps I cannot live without any more. There are on every saw I own larger than my 261, standing at the stump it's so nice and comfortable when felling where you only have access to one side of the tree. Except for driving the mini over a stump, I never need to cut a stump lower than 4-6" from the ground, let the grinders the rest of it
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Talking with my neighbor, retired career logger...he would run leaner for chainspeed on a patch of alder, and richer for lots of long grunty cuts in big wood for cooling and longevity.

'Hickory'-wearing Graybeard talk.

Full-wraps are like having power-steering versus manual. A sharp chain versus groundie-sharp.
Above 261, full-wrap, here, too. I have a basically new Husky from Treebay, collecting dust. I didn't realize its a half-wrap. Haven't bothered with it. Kinda forgot about it. Should get it fixed up with a full-wrap. It's neglected.



Clean-stumping technique, shared at the Brand X forum, plunge in, keep you tip buried, chase around the stump. You're always pulling out of the stump, never pulling into it. Dirt pops off the bark being torn outward, not dragged inward.

Graybeard talk.



For alders, wrap a chain as tight as your can into a grab-hook, pop a coupe medium to long wedges to tighten the chain. Easy peasy, ANY size. Chain-binders are a PITA. Wedges are durable and multipurpose.
 
@evo,

Lightweight bar
chainsaw mill, milling chain, and respirator... you'll use the saw more frequently.

I have a confession to make...I"m a crotch-horder. Wood-horder in general. Every decent maple crotch has a couple sweet boards in it. Rainy, snowy day shop-time work to produce income.
 
Never been impressed with any 660... I always do like the huskys especially for big cutts
 
southsoundtree said:
How does one knock the oiler in? I don't know where my manual is. I've been milling with a 42" bar and need all the oil I can get.

Why do you want 063?
Click to expand...

1. The Oiler has conventional adjustments Plus the pin can be pushed,( knocked) in to increase the flow. I’ll see if I can find photos.

2. 0.063” Gauge Chain.
Wider groove, more oil, it just oils better than the narrower gauges.
Plus the thicker drives seem to do better on longer bars.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Bango Skank said:
Probably wouldn't take much to get your 660 going again, sometimes it's a little tough getting an old clutch off but not too hard. New clutch is pretty cheap too, especially aftermarket.
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It would not have been too much work to repair it, I just decided it was time for an upgrade. That, and I don’t have the time to work on it and it would have been at least a week to get the shop to repair it. Besides, who doesn’t like a new saw?
 
southsoundtree said:
@evo,

Lightweight bar
chainsaw mill, milling chain, and respirator... you'll use the saw more frequently.

I have a confession to make...I"m a crotch-horder. Wood-horder in general. Every decent maple crotch has a couple sweet boards in it. Rainy, snowy day shop-time work to produce income.
Click to expand...

Crotch-hoarder due to cool grain patterns?
 
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