MS 200 or MS 192?

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You could handsaw through the brush on a poplar that big as fast as a chainsaw will cut it. :-p

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Well you're a bigger tougher dude than me Jeff if you can skin that to the spar with your hand saw.

For myself I can say that when the limbs get about thigh size, my sharp little 192 rips through them like a hot knife though butter. Beats my hand saw attached to my scrawny little girly arms.
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The 200T is the saw made for professionals. The 192 is marketed to appease those of us who find the 200 to be too expensive.

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Zeb, this sounds like you never used a 192.
The 192 is probably not intended to be for the professional but with the right tweaks on the muffler you really really never look back to a MS200 ever.....EVER.
For a pro the price of good gear is not an issue. It's the handling that counts.
The 192 is the saw for the professional that knows you don't need a more heavy, less ergonomic saw to shave a tree.
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i would love to know what kinda tweeks you got that can turn a 192 into a 200t..
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You could handsaw through the brush on a poplar that big as fast as a chainsaw will cut it. :-p

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Well you're a bigger tougher dude than me Jeff if you can skin that to the spar with your hand saw.

For myself I can say that when the limbs get about thigh size, my sharp little 192 rips through them like a hot knife though butter. Beats my hand saw attached to my scrawny little girly arms.
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I mean, look at that definition. Thats alot of handsawing right there. :-P

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i would love to know what kinda tweeks you got that can turn a 192 into a 200t..
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[/ QUOTE ]I made just one. I drilled a big hole into the muffler. The other one is supplied factory shelf stock standard. The bar and chain on a 192 are slimmer and don't need to cut as much wood as the standard bar and chain on a MS200. Because of those two 'tweaks' my 192 can stand the comparison with the standard MS200.
One thing that bugs me is that the slim 192 bar is not build for this beating. I can only use two chains before the tip of the bar peels open.
 
I run 200s at work and have a 192 for my personal saw, and am thinking of trading a friend my 192 for his 338xpt any thoughts on that? I ran a 338 a few times at my old job and thought it had way more power than my 192, but if there is a mod I can do to the muffler I would love to know exactly how to do it. And remember I do maybe 3 side jobs a year for friends and family (my bosses are not to big on us doing side work).

Sorry for the derail
 
Sam-
I picked up a 338xpt here in the buzz from cbugg (props!)... runs like an absolute champ!! It's my personal saw, but used it for two months of storm work this winter when the company 200t blew up. It runs great, certainly more power than a 192, but still underpowered in bigger wood compared to the 200t. Never had any carb adjustment problems as people have mentioned, runs solid, always pops on the first pull. Would be a beneficial trade, IMO.
 
it needs to be in a place where it wont melt the plastic on the saw. pry open the exhaust deflector and make the exit hole under it bigger. try to make the hole bigger to where it will still allow the deflector to fit but large enough that its bigger then the stock hole. dont go any bigger then a 1/2 inch for a saw under 50cc. over 50cc you can open the exhaust to 5/8s. remember to retune your carb. it will be running much leaner allowing more airflow to move through the saw. that means it will be drawing in more air in which equalls leaner conditions. take some practice drilling holes into some scrap metal before you mess with your saw. do some research online on chainsaw muffler mods.
 
I would trade that 192 for the 338 any day. Actually selling my 192t possibly tomorrow if it all works out and thinking about picking up the t435.
 
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No need for practice (mechanic for eight years). But the high screw only turns 3/4 out and it was at that from factory setting.

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limiter caps possibly? usually you need to take them out to do this mod.

if there are no limiter caps you can still do this mod but be aware of the RPMs. do you own a tachometer for small saws? what is the stock WOT RPMs?
 
All this 192T power you all talk about, you guys must love the power of the ms170. Same thing in rear handle for $159. Gutless wonders IMO.
 
As a contract climber I have both a 192T and a 200T in my kit. On my 192T I run a 12" low profile bar and chain that is perfect for pruning. For removals the 200T comes out and kicks . I used to use the 192T for everything with a 16" low profile bar on it but it is 3+ years old and is acting a little tired to be doing removals.

I think until someone comes out with a really good battery operated chainsaw (if only Hilti and Stihl would collaborate!), the best lightweight ergonomic option is a 192T with a short bar.

Oh and I forgot to mention that if you show up on a tree job with a 192T with a 12" bar be prepared to be laughed at by the rest of the crew.
 
I've only owned 200s but was furnished a 192T working in NOLA so I got to do a lot of cutting with one. I think a 192T is a perfectly good saw and a good buy when you're just starting out but when you need to make precision face cuts in big wood and fast backcuts like with tops and heavy leaning pieces you'll want a 200T. The 192 doesn't spin nearly as fast so it's harder to be precise... 14,000 rpms is hard to beat, no muffler modded 192 will do that. You should try the 200 rear handle too, makes a killer limbing and chipper saw.

Besides a throwline, no piece of gear pays for itself faster or more times over than a climbing saw. $600 seems steep compared to $350 but that's basically one or two takedowns. If you have the cash on hand, I wouldn't hesitate to go with a 200.
 
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