more wide open DZs

Was the redirect block attatched to the winch or the chipper?I dont use chipper winches to pull with or off. They dont have a brake and will pay line out under extreme pressure.I dont know if yours is factory or not. I couldnt tell looked like it might have been anchored directly to chipper.

When you blow the top out like at the end of the vid do you make cuts on each side 90* from the hinge to prevent tearing? That is always a concern with me especially with the lanyard hip to hip.
 
But no eye pro!
confused.gif
 
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When you blow the top out like at the end of the vid do you make cuts on each side 90* from the hinge to prevent tearing? That is always a concern with me especially with the lanyard hip to hip.

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always always always
 
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When you blow the top out like at the end of the vid do you make cuts on each side 90* from the hinge to prevent tearing? That is always a concern with me especially with the lanyard hip to hip.

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always always always

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Agreed.
 
daniel,
clip 1. what a great opportunity to use your own "brilliant" stepped back cut. I thought it was a time waster of a method. Untill I saw this video. It would have allowed you to make the back cut standing on the ground behind that tree fairly safe too. Instead you choose to make an embarrassingly amateur cut at waist height... hmm pinched saw, Hey! yard on that skid steer while I put my gut into this notoriously "poor hinging" facecut and try to pull myself through the tree and yank the f#*k out of my saw. really?
clip 2.
why do you cut at head height? Is that the biggest bar you brought that day? Or some other secret.
How much incentive do you have to give to get your guys to climb in that truck and drive? Who gets to rake the entire yard?
clip 3.
big top, you are a badass
sorry man some of your videos are pretty interesting. this one should stay in your home collection.
 
I actually was going to leave this one in the can, but was getting bored, so I threw it into the pit of despair, for your amusement...

Hey Chep, you know the sound was kinda rough on that audio, especially with the screaming husky next door, BUT if you had been paying a bit better attention you might have heard me say that there was no getting around behind that tree. A straight drop off of 8'+ on the backside of both trees. So I'd have had to cut from the hooks otherwise...

Its interesting to see how hard it is to observe grade changes on a 2-D screen.. You just can't tell the lay of the land on video...

The oak was cut high becasue I had to avoid the fence post that would have kept me from bringing the body of the saw around through the backcut. You have to look closely to see it though, Its not the one in the foreground. I AM actually leaning on it while making the cut...

Bar was 32" and was well over the diameter of the tree at the cut, maybe 2-3" to spare..

Again you can see how far the grade changes on the right side of that tree, only when I walk over there to check the bar tip. Video is very deceoptive. Look at the little out building in the background on that oak cut. Camaera is looking well down on the peak of the roof. I AM standing 12'-15' above the grade just 5-10' behind me.

Did you ever make up your mind on the plunged verticle snap cuts on leaners, vs. Sean's USFS method?
 
yup, I had to look. before i clicked on the video, i said to myself, alright, just view it and don't comment at all.

Something I agree with, video does not ever show heights well, you are correct. yes, it was definitely steep drop off behind those tree. i've viewed steep hills and drop off's on my video and you can hardly tell they are there sometimes.

I'm only saying this one thing, that I feel compelled to say, at 1:13, you used the top of the bar to make the cut and the bar is belly high, that made me scared for real.

We don't have much strength holding a chainsaw in that position, the way you were standing in front of it (I know I don't, and I'm amazing), if that bar bounced it was going to open up your belly and make a real mess.

I don't wish for you to ever get hurt and please don't take this one as attacking you, because I'm not yet in this thread and i hope I can leave this one that way.
 
extreme drop off huh, all right, I'll buy it on tree 2. but tree 1. Gets me thinking, how many arborists own springboards. ya know the one they use on big trees out west... I actually own a set and use them in lumberjack competition (poorly I might add) but on trees like this you could use a set of boards to safely make a back cut, even throw a couple wedges in then exit the scene. 2x8s might work... but taking that extra couple minutes to make a safe place to saw from seems worth it. Even putting that cut in with a plunge cut and setting wedges from your spikes then an exit would have been safer than that shite.
glad you made it this time daniel.
as for the vertical snap cuts. well, I haven't gotten to try your method on anything big. mainly cos it ruins product (out in the woods) but it does work great on some smaller stuff (under 10 inches) although it spears into the ground pretty hard. which is scary. Honestly I still dont really get the USFS method, so I haven't really tried it much.
 
Speaking of springboards...we were working on a lombardy by the juice yesterday. Drop only. The utility arb was working the spar by the wires and had already gotten the other spar down to a point it could be felled. Had to cut some springboards to get up high enough to drop it, it was fun. Never had to before, but it is a good tool in the box.
 
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6KAbjJ485c

A couple back leaners and a top and drop.. nothing too crazy..

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Just watched this one.

"All right boys and girls, let me make this back cut standing directly in line with the 'line pull', in case the spar snaps off early, it will just hit me in the chest and knock the wind outta me. I didn't put myself at risk at all. I knew that there was poor fiber. I knew the spar wouldn't snap off the stump until I told it to."
"I didn't put excessive force on that pull line, it was used well within it's safe workin load. Instinct told me when to stop cutting, so the skid loader can pull it over safely with the 1/2" line. I can force the pinched bar outta the cut all I want. I replace the buffers (anti-vibe components) on my saws on a weekly basis. They're my saws, I can do what I want. Now, let me turn my back and walk away from the tree and let the skid steer and 1/2" line do the work."
"When removing the top of a tree, with a forward lean, you don't need to make 'wing cuts'. I have such great instinct, I can tell when to stop cutting. I told the tree not to barber chair on me before I went up, so I wouldn't have to bother with wing cuts, a bore cut and strap cut. I like it."
 

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