Modded Double Rope Bridge!

iclimbtreesbro

iclimbtreesbro

Location
Richmond
I am a new member here, though I have been a climber for a few years for a major corporate tree company and just graduated from Virginia Tech's forestry program!

I just began a new job with a startup tree service to pursue a much better opportunity, and they loaned me a grand to buy any tree gear I wanted! I bought a SherrillTree Edge and decked it out with some upgrades... a Silky handsaw will be added as soon as I burn through the Fanno.

Post a picture of your saddle if you are running some type of MODDED bridge or othwrwise unconventional configuration! Let's see 'em!

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I am climbing on 150' of brand new 11.5mm Lava/Tachyon, and loving the hitchclimber pulley setup with a long 8mm OP e2e prusik! I carry enough biners/hitches to allow 2nd/3rd tie-in points and allow the option of replacing worn or damaged hitches on the fly with a variety of materials (especially if something gets sappy). My experiences as a foreman have lead me to believe in Murphy's Law and be prepared to the extreme. Extra gear weight doesn't bother me.

Post photos of those modded bridges! Mine are the factory Edge replacements @$17/ea, paired with two of the large Climbing Technology steel rings. My goal is to increase the bend radius and increase stability...the 2-eye CMI micropulley worked ok for me and I didn't want to buy one of the CMI zipline double pulleys. I have replacement bridges stowed in my gear bag in case anyone is wondering. Peace out!
 
CutHighnLetFly said:
Look up SMC rings on TreeStuff.com they are a smidge smaller and smaller but just as wide for your bend radius.
They also have some weird ring they made specifically for bridges with an ideal bend radius.
Get yourself a rope wrench with that tool grant!
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I thought about using smaller rings, but ended up ordering the larger ones because in my mind they wouldn't mash the two rope bridges together quite as much in the center... I could be wrong about that, however. The ropes are pressed against a flatter surface instead. I will also add that I don't have to spend quite as much time searching for the ring openings when quickly hooking them with a carabiner (this is a marginal difference).

I definitely notices that "ideal bend radius" ring that you are talking about, but the price deterred me (as did the reviews of a less-than-polished finish, which mention a metallic discoloration on the bridge during the break-in process). I would totally rock one of those if they decide to refine their design just a bit, I think it's a great step in the way of prolonging bridge life. So far so good with my current setup! It really doesn't feel that bulky and I can still lean side-to-side when I want to; otherwise, the increased friction keeps me comfortably centered during ascension.

I am not one to constantly distrust my climbing setup, but this bridge mod creates one less thing to worry about... especially in case one of the bridges gets nicked with a handsaw (or worse). And who doesn't like to be different? :P One day I would love to own a mechanical ascender... what other devices have you tried and what made you settle on the rope wrench? Would it create flat wear spots on my rope (11.5mm Lava/Tachyon) and what kind of wear do you observe on your own rope (in conjunction with friction savers or natural crotch climbing)?
 
TimBr said:
@iclimbtreesbro;

You should also read this post, and then search for photos of @DSMc's latest configuration for his Hitch Hiker 2. He's in love with the way his system works.

http://www.treebuzz.com/forum/threads/hh-2.29894/#post-421560

Tim
Click to expand...
That is a pretty amazing prototype! I can definitely see how that'd be effective. Additional anchor points would be an improvement but there's no point in risking structural weaknesses at that stage.

I am liking my Hitch Hiker setup thus far! Only climbed a few trees with it over the holiday. Tomorrow I will resume full-time production work at my new job in Richmond that I was telling you about. I'm stoked as hell to put all this fancy equipment to hard use! Hopefully no one quits anytime soon haha
 
@iclimbtreesbro I have a mechanical ascender (bulldog bone) and i love it. The wrench was just a nice step between just starting SRT and deciding if I want a mechanical multicender. I kn ow with both the wrench and bulldog bone, and I assume any set up in srt, has reduced rope wear significantly. About the flattening, I never had a problem with that with the wrench. I noticed it more with the Bone, but any flattening never stays, it's round again after you shake it around alittle.
 
oldoakman said:
Seems to me if you are using your handsaw that close to your bridge, it is also very close to very important anatomical parts. Something I would avoid at all costs.;)
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LOLZ I just always seem to encounter branches that need cutting on the opposite side of wherever my saw scabbard is mounted. Maybe I should work on my behind-the-back passes?
 
CutHighnLetFly said:
@iclimbtreesbro I have a mechanical ascender (bulldog bone) and i love it. The wrench was just a nice step between just starting SRT and deciding if I want a mechanical multicender. I kn ow with both the wrench and bulldog bone, and I assume any set up in srt, has reduced rope wear significantly. About the flattening, I never had a problem with that with the wrench. I noticed it more with the Bone, but any flattening never stays, it's round again after you shake it around alittle.
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Thanks for the insider info! I have lots of experience with the basic CMI foot ascender and just recently switched to the CT foot ascender... it is the shit! The rope wrench appeals to me because the system seems to have fewer moving parts, making regular inspections and maintenance more simple. Thanks for the recommendation!
 
Here's another vote for the rope wrench. Seeing as how you already have a foot ascender, hitch climber and eye n eye cords, you're looking pretty good. Just add a wrench and tether and tend it over your shoulder with your lanyard. You'd be in business. I never ditched ddrt completely, but boys oh boys is that wrench nice to have in MOST situations. Redirecting is what sold me immediately. Immediately.
 
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southsoundtree said:
Worrying about bend radius on an easily replaced rope bridge is unnecessary, imo.

Seperate your rings, one on each bridge, imo.
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I agree on one of those points.
The bend radius isn't a serious issue.
I am all for redundancy where there is none though. I know a guy who fell on one of the old technora cougar bridges.(we know better now, but weaver didn't then.)

I love DSRT. Love. The double bridge is harmless. Clip around them directly or run both lines to the ring.
Keep them in the same ring. Enjoy your peace of mind and use the other ring in a monkey-tail setup when you work out spars.
 
Thanks for the constructive criticism everyone! I fully understand that at some point a system can become too redundant and bulky, and I guess the main benefit of the second ring is increased friction... which I prefer during ascents. I am less concerned about bridge strength since I am only using factory-made Edge replacements (though maybe I could swap one out for a homemade Blaze bridge for less/cheaper overkill).

I am aware of how time-proven the single bridge w/ single aluminum ring is. I am thinking of keeping the 2 rings around both bridges, but keep one ring tied off to the side with some accessory cord (to one of the rigging plates) and only untie it when double-crotching with two separate hitches. I thought about buying a swivel or Rook to throw on there but don't have the funds yet. I like the simplicity of the rings anyway, and can certainly see the advantage of running each ring on a separate bridge when transferring between two far-apart stems.
 
Excessive safety... and annoying people who think it's excessive haha. But really, a single handsaw swipe could seriously impair a rope bridge, and I constantly exchange my handaw back and forth. It's a very affordable step I took to eliminate a weak point in my climbing system. I do everything by the books safety-wise and have not yet frayed a bridge accidentally in my three years of production climbing. As I mentiones in posts above, the extra friction can be useful depending on your individual climbing preferences. I have never had a reportable accident while on-the-job and safety mods can't be a bad thing if they don't impair time, right?
The extra weight is negligible and I do not find it to be physically bulky. I highly doubt there is a significant risk of abrasion where the two bridges contact each other (and I rotate each bridge a quarter-turn or so in between climbs). I also like to mod things in general. If I could, I would swap in slightly bigger rigging plates so I could run a quad bridge (KIDDING)! The doubled rope bridge closely mimics the webbing bridge in terms of friction, but it creates a smoother side-to-side motion without the more rapid movement of a micropulley.

As far as the most practical application goes, being tied in on separate bridges can be an advantage (it has been documented online if you search for double bridges... and in one instance they use the swiveling Rook micro-pulleys on them!) Your saddle is your office chair and desk; confugure it in a way that best suits you! I am lucky to work for someone who gives me the freedom to use virtually any industry-rated gear in the correct applications...unlike my previous corporate employer who wouldn't let me use wire-core fliplines, plastic accessory carabiners for water bottles, or anything other than steel snaps at the ends od work-positioning lanyards. I want to experience other equipment combos to see what really works best!

The SherrillTree rigging plates do not have a kN rating stamped on them, but they are permanently sewn in so I have to trust them. No complaints 100+ ft up so far! What is the weakest link in your individual climbing system? Old carabiners, aluminum rings, pulleys, termination knots? etc... (serious question for anyone on here... obviously we all retire our hitches and bridges regularly)
 
iclimbtreesbro said:
Excessive safety... and annoying people who think it's excessive haha. But really, a single handsaw swipe could seriously impair a rope bridge, and I constantly exchange my handaw back and forth. It's a very affordable step I took to eliminate a weak point in my climbing system. I do everything by the books safety-wise and have not yet frayed a bridge accidentally in my three years of production climbing. As I mentiones in posts above, the extra friction can be useful depending on your individual climbing preferences. I have never had a reportable accident while on-the-job and safety mods can't be a bad thing if they don't impair time, right?
The extra weight is negligible and I do not find it to be physically bulky. I highly doubt there is a significant risk of abrasion where the two bridges contact each other (and I rotate each bridge a quarter-turn or so in between climbs). I also like to mod things in general. If I could, I would swap in slightly bigger rigging plates so I could run a quad bridge (KIDDING)! The doubled rope bridge closely mimics the webbing bridge in terms of friction, but it creates a smoother side-to-side motion without the more rapid movement of a micropulley.

As far as the most practical application goes, being tied in on separate bridges can be an advantage (it has been documented online if you search for double bridges... and in one instance they use the swiveling Rook micro-pulleys on them!) Your saddle is your office chair and desk; confugure it in a way that best suits you! I am lucky to work for someone who gives me the freedom to use virtually any industry-rated gear in the correct applications...unlike my previous corporate employer who wouldn't let me use wire-core fliplines, plastic accessory carabiners for water bottles, or anything other than steel snaps at the ends od work-positioning lanyards. I want to experience other equipment combos to see what really works best!

The SherrillTree rigging plates do not have a kN rating stamped on them, but they are permanently sewn in so I have to trust them. No complaints 100+ ft up so far! What is the weakest link in your individual climbing system? Old carabiners, aluminum rings, pulleys, termination knots? etc... (serious question for anyone on here... obviously we all retire our hitches and bridges regularly)
Click to expand...

I feel you.

The tree is the weak spot. Almost always, because I keep up on my gear checks and like to shoot for the top.
 
SomethingWitty said:
I feel you.

The tree is the weak spot. Almost always, because I keep up on my gear checks and like to shoot for the top.
Click to expand...

No doubt true most of the time. So many unknown and unseen variables under that bark. Tie in points on tall trees are one of those too. I'm sure most climbers have set their rope on what looked like a great TIP from the ground only to find it far less safe looking once they reached it.
 
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