Mini skid idler bearing removal

[Serf Life]

Fighting with one and looking for any tips. Front idler bearing on sk800. Have replaced the rear ones 4(?) times but those are in a sliding housing that can be removed and taken to a press. Heated, pb blasted, 8lb sledge vs punches, tried a bottle jack against a shorty/broken punch.

 

[VenasNursery]

I haven’t had one go yet but my buddy had no luck and end up at the dealer

 

[Reach]

Can you cut them? Or at least cut a slot in them? Sawzall with a carbide tip blade, on slow speed, cut a slot as close as possible to the housing (ideally, leaving just a whisker of steel left and then a couple whacks with a sledge and punch to break that whisker). After that, try your jack, they should press out nicely.

Alternately, heat the outside, induction heater is preferred, while pressing the bearing out.

Also, make sure you're pressing from the right side. If you're not, you'll never get them out.

 

[Lumberjack]

Pretty sure I wouldn’t press between the track frames, seems like a great way to bend a frame before you make meaningful progress.

 

[flushcut]

I’d probable destroy the rest of the bearing just leaving the outer race still stuck in the undercarriage. Then run a hot weld bead on the inside of the race heat shrinking it and it should come out easily with a punch and some tapping, not smashing, just a little happy tappy tap taps.

I’ve done this several times with the undercarriage idlers on my s800tx. Works great.

 

[flushcut]

But relooking at your pics why is that metal disc split? Is there a special tool needed? Like an ultra duty snap ring pliers or something?

 

[flushcut]

Plus getting the new bearings and seals and looking at them might give you a clue as to how they come apart and go back in.

 

[Serf Life]

Pretty sure I wouldn’t press between the track frames, seems like a great way to bend a frame before you make meaningful progress.

Definitely why I stopped, it's been recommended and I strapped them together before jacking but was wary about that.

Can you cut them? Or at least cut a slot in them? Sawzall with a carbide tip blade, on slow speed, cut a slot as close as possible to the housing (ideally, leaving just a whisker of steel left and then a couple whacks with a sledge and punch to break that whisker). After that, try your jack, they should press out nicely.

Not entirely following but will think on that

But relooking at your pics why is that metal disc split? Is there a special tool needed? Like an ultra duty snap ring pliers or something?

that is a separate piece like a tapered split washer that the bolt seats to. Same on the rear ones we replaced. After the bearing spindle assembly is removed the washer gets driven out.

Bearing spindle assembly looks like this. Just the spindle remains, held by surface rust...

 

[Serf Life]

Looked back at an older thread and @Reach you mentioned heating the housing then cold water dousing the spindle. I'll give that a go tomorrow. Any sweet rigs to use a jack/press without pushing on the opposite track rail??

 

[flushcut]

Looked back at an older thread and @Reach you mentioned heating the housing then cold water dousing the spindle. I'll give that a go tomorrow. Any sweet rigs to use a jack/press without pushing on the opposite track rail??

Bearing puller, except it will be pushing on the shaft. Load up the puller good and tight and heat the housing and listen for banging, creeping, and popping then load up more pressure and reheat. I’m guessing it will need some good heat as it’s thick steel. Oxy:acetylene rosebud is your best bet but propane will work in a day or two lol.

 

[flushcut]

Orrr thermic lance and melt the SOB . Probably the most gratifying and final solution.

 

[Reach]

Looked back at an older thread and @Reach you mentioned heating the housing then cold water dousing the spindle. I'll give that a go tomorrow. Any sweet rigs to use a jack/press without pushing on the opposite track rail??

I thought about mentioning that one, it has worked well for me in the past, but it doesn't always give results.

A hydraulic gear puller would be the ticket, but I am not sure where to find one, and I'm sure they're expensive to buy.

 

[ATH]

Heat on the outside and CRC Freeze-Off on the bearing

 

[Lumberjack]

The heating/cooling methods won't work very well unless you get the bearing apart. If you can get the shaft/inside race out of the bearing, leaving only the outside race in the frame, welding the inside of the race will cause it to shrink and practically fall out.

...A hydraulic gear puller would be the ticket, but I am not sure where to find one, and I'm sure they're expensive to buy.

 

[Reach]

The heating/cooling methods won't work very well unless you get the bearing apart. If you can get the shaft/inside race out of the bearing, leaving only the outside race in the frame, welding the inside of the race will cause it to shrink and practically fall out.





View attachment 102276
View attachment 102277

I see! And I see something I will be picking up next time I'm near a Harbor Freight... Thank you!

 

[Brando CalPankian]

A bushing press, u joint press, heat, wax, Milwaukee impact.

I've made my own cups and adapters for different applications. Lube the threads and wear safety glasses

https://www.harborfreight.com/professional-master-ball-jointuniversal-joint-press-set-20-piece-57996.html?hftm_sc=&hftm_source=google&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=21905696056&campaignid=21905696056&utm_content=169026379663&adsetid=169026379663&product=57996&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21905696056&gbraid=0AAAAADAHb4eWP46SxLyYVzTtek5myzJg3&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_7PRBhDcARIsAMjV7jn28FYn4gxeQP65wVaCDDLgc_AHL5CC1r2VVZ6Tuvh9rI9uR0N0TNUaAvVJEALw_wcB

 

[Brando CalPankian]

Also, not sure with your specific model, but check for snap rings. They sometimes rot off or are recessed really well. May not apply here but easy to check for.

 

[Evo]

Only thing I can add that others haven’t mentioned is a big ass all thread rod a backing plate and an impact. Not sure if it would do much that the bottle jack didn’t.
Dry ice on the inside and heat on the outside?

 

[Bart_]

On the weld the outer race thing, each weld bead contributes that much again shrinkage. Weld in a line along the axis of the axle to pull in the circumference. In lieu of weld, achieving near-molten with a torch will also cause shrinkage, no need for an actual weld bead.