Thank you and just to be clear.. It's a fused back cut, not a fused hinge..
I used the step cut (fused back cut) for a long time before ever making a video of it. I originally used it exclusively for falling cuts, at a time when I would have to handle the final flush cut round for big trees by hand. It was an effective way of allowing me to keep the notch and hinge above the trunk flare, and half the flush cut round for easier handling..
After seeing the tremendous strength of the fuse, I became confident to take it upstairs, and would trust my life to it if necessary, which was not the case on that cherry top. And yes its holdiong ability is very much going to depend on species, spread of the two cuts, as well as width of the hinge. You have to get a feel for it.. heavy leaners cannot be trusted.. deadwood you gotta be extra careful. And this is also where pulling with equipment comes into play... if you are pulling by hand, even with a good MA system, its gonna be a hastle, more of a waste of time and energy than its worth.... being able to pull with equipment, even if its the chipper winch, is a must.. you need to do it a lot on easy trees for practice to get a feel for it..
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I like the gap technique in the face--I picked that up from Beranek's book GFOTW, I too think it adds to the holding power of the hinge as the face closes down.
Question, however, on your fused hinge. I understand that this is a modification of the bore cut, yet, with a much larger holding strap. How do you determine the amount of holding wood? gut feeling, species characteristics, or experience. I think it's an attractive technique, however, I find problems with notching and boring a top, then coming down to safety--when on the way down I would be thinking, "I hope that holds..."
Nice vids, eventhough the safety police are issuing citations.
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