Make your own friction saver

Now, back to the original topic.... Here's a pic of my FS that I made today. Now if I could only splice.... It would be alot cleaner.
 

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[ QUOTE ]
Now if I could only splice.... It would be alot cleaner.

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What'dya mean? That's beautiful! Especially those double overhand nooses. /forum/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
I would suggest leaving a longer tail on the biner side and taping it all the way up to form a stiffer section that will pop over crotches. I would worry that your knot will snag easily, costing more in time and money trying to retrieve it than getting a proper fs. Knots on the ring side are not normally an issue because it is rare that that end sees a crotch up close.

Dave
 
i would try to keep the total support to the rope 'belly' at 1" or 1"+ for a 1/2" line.

i think that works for closed/ self contatined climber rig DdRT, and would be wrong (not enough) for lowering thru as i've seen mentioned before. As the lowering is an open system; and should stick to 2" bend for 1/2" line.

i think the differance is, that the load shifts to the static leg in DdRT, then you come done, as the hitch side slides. In lowering on an open system, both legs are loaded, so the force has to culr around the tight bend, leveraging the line. Rope manufactures recomend no less than 2" bend under load on moving line. i have come to see the closed system of DdRT, as a seperate mechanichs, allowing a sharper bend.

i'd watch fer 1 'ring' being able to fit thru the other complicating total support to the line and use, i'd think.
 
I just thought I'd share the proper name- apparently this knot is called a bull hitch. Sounds fine to me. Much like a cow....but a bit harder to move! I was shared this link from some of the people at Toss's site.... http://www.geocities.com/roo_two/bullhitch.html

Here you can see that it is identical to the one I found.

WCT, that friction saver is a perfect answer to the original post of the question. Dave's suggestions seem to improve it a lot. To get you eased in to splicing, you could make the tails of the fisherperson's noose (?) knot realy long (each as long as the friction saver itself) then cut the ends of at a realllllly long angle, then lay them down next to eachother. Now wrap the hell out of it to make one long stiff friction saver. I've never done this, but it make the FS flip easier out of the crotch it's in.

Or you could splice one!

love
nick

ps- see pic for better idea of what I meant by taping the long tails.
 

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Here is another way a rope one might be made better.

This is a variation of the double fishermans I came up with a while ago. It allows the bight to be cinched up tight to kill the chance of cross loading. If you put the ring on this end, there would be no knot to pull through a crotch. The other end with the biner could be girthed, or put on with Nick's new knot.

Dave
 

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Here is another knot you could use to girth. I believe it is called the post hitch in Ashley's. It is nice and secure but unties super easy even after pulling a truck (trust me)

Dave
 

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Todd- how does that zing-it whipping work out? Does it help with flipping that eye out of the crotch?

LOVE the use of the plastic tubing to keep it open. I guess water-hose would work, too, but yours allows visual inspection.

love
nick
 
Mark, the block is from Harken, all stainless, tensile of 5000lbs. SWL of 2500lbs.Most of Harkens stuff has a SWL of half the tensile which is different from most manufactures. Nick, the zing it works well. The tubing is from our PHC department and is very stiff, that important for retreival. I mostly use it for removals. It takes a little more planning to retreive than a RG.While prunning, if I connect it to my access line I have had no problems.
 

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