Looking for the ideal rope.

[Serf Life]

As a man who ripped his scrotum open as a child requiring sack-stiches, stubs are bad.

 

[Willber]

I looked at this before bed. I asked myself where to start. Two of my concerns have been answered above. The other is how come so much mess on the ground, working alone. I like things kept tidy, no tripping hazards and easy to deal with cleanup if everything is processed as it falls. I abhor a messy dropzone. Thanks for posting as I now can see your skillset. That method you are using is a first for me seeing it. A huge NO NO. Serves no purpose. You were above your TIP obviously doing AIRMAIL, so why did you not work everything down to the fat union and the chunk it down. Am I missing something. work clean going up. those stubs are terrible. Help me understand your reasoning, so far it looks odd.

I was asked not to fall the trees into the woods, including the largest one, (I hung from) and cut the others that seemed a bit too thin diameter and small to climb without half of my weight pulled up on from hangin in from that largest tree. About 2/3 the way down the big tree I would push off it and grab hold of the 3 other trees (which you can see the 10 foot stumps) climbing up them using my DRT rope from the big tree, then when I was high enough in the smaller trees, I'd throw pieces of the trees as I came down them cutting as I went. Throwing them out onto the grass so they would certainly miss the tank, and reduce me having to damage the other trees in the woods, plus it was easier to pick up the tree pieces on the grass than in the tight area around those four trees I was taking down, given there was much bushes that the home owner wanted to leave un crushed, for they were as a blind to his neighbors house.
Yes, so I decided it was better to throw all pieces of the tree over the tank into the grass.
And, no, there was no one else to move the pieces as they were being thrown on the grass.

 

[Willber]

This tree looks to be just a tad over 30' tall. Is there something of value right out of frame in this image? Why aren't you just felling it? Also, it may be time to post this in a different thread because this is no longer about rope selection.

It's about 50ft, I was asked to not fall it into the woods, the woods was wanted to be kept undisturbed.
Yeah, I should've posted it in a more appropriate thread, but I thought this ideal rope has come to a dead end on here, and others have started talking about other stuff, and maybe this whole rope thread will be discarded soon anyway.

 

[Willber]

What’s up with the stubs?

I use them instead of spikes when I'm climbing very tall thin trees at an angle with a rope from another higher tree, it just makes things more simple and lighter, and more manuverable.

 

[Willber]

I think @Willber is hanging from the crown, but not the rope constraining the crown. Climbing the doubled rope that's through the sleeve looks okay. Climbing the single rope that's constraining the crown looks dangerous; the forces will be magnified, pulling laterally on a taut section of rope. However, it doesn't appear that the rope is rigged for that.

To rig the rope constraining the crown, it seems as though you are probably already trusting a TIP that you're trying to reinforce so I'm not sure of the benefit.

Right, I didn't do any rigging, except I did rig a few branches to one of my lanyards, anchoring the branch to my lanyard, then cutting the branch allowing it to fall to my side, then hoist up the branch, unclip it then throw it over the tank.
I was just thinking if I could add a bit of strength from the opposite side of the Y, by pulling the 2 parts of the Y together, then the part of the Y I was hanging from would less likely snap or split at the union of the base of the Y, like a wishbone. Am I going about it wrong, I try to use common sense.

 

[Jonny]

Ooof.
All due respect, I’m not trying to give you a hard time; you would do well to get hired on at a reputable local tree service and possibly get trained by a professional. Learn some of the ins and outs of climbing and rigging, and if possible, over the years try to work with a few different pros.

What you’re talking about with your lanyard sounds like it could’ve been accomplished easily and in a much safer manner with a rigging line. Your lanyard is for positioning, it should see your body’s weight and that’s it.

 

[Willber]

Be careful with that, technically a triangle of death (or so it looks to me) and you’re side loading that right stem at a prime lever point. On a dead ash.

Google triangle of death in rock climbing in regards to anchor building

I see, the danger in that, with the angle more obtuse there's a compounded increase in pull force. But, wouldn't a fixed snug loop holding the Y together may not necessarily cause compounded force, because it's a fixed loop that is not being hung from.

 

[Willber]

Ooof.
All due respect, I’m not trying to give you a hard time; you would do well to get hired on at a reputable local tree service and possibly get trained by a professional. Learn some of the ins and outs of climbing and rigging, and if possible, over the years try to work with a few different pros.

What you’re talking about with your lanyard sounds like it could’ve been accomplished easily and in a much safer manner with a rigging line. Your lanyard is for positioning, it should see your body’s weight and that’s it.

Thanks, for the advice. But, with all respect, sir. I don't like how slobby and hustle driven, because by the bottom dollar, these professional tree companies are.
What I did here I don't think was really that dangerous. I do try to use common sense, and am very careful to not damage desirable trees and landscape, including lawns. And, I'm quite quick on my feet.

 

[Crimsonking]

Thanks, for the advice. But, with all respect, sir. I don't like how slobby and hustle driven, because by the bottom dollar, these professional tree companies are.
What I did here I don't think was really that dangerous. I do try to use common sense, and am very careful to not damage desirable trees and landscape, including lawns. And, I'm quite quick on my feet.

What you described is not what we call professional. Professional is productive, but it is also excellent. Jonny’s advice stands. However, your track record hasn’t been one of heeding sound advice on this thread.

 

[Serf Life]

I use them instead of spikes when I'm climbing very tall thin trees at an angle with a rope from another higher tree, it just makes things more simple and lighter, and more manuverable.

You don’t have spikes or chose not to use them?

 

[Willber]

You don’t have spikes or chose not to use them?

Choose not to use them. I grip the tree I’m hanging into with my lanyard connected to the D rings and usually there’s good bark grip or little mounds or simply stubs from branches, to anchor onto with my shoes.

 

[Lupin_IV]

Choose not to use them. I grip the tree I’m hanging into with my lanyard connected to the D rings and usually there’s good bark grip or little mounds or simply stubs from branches, to anchor onto with my shoes.

0_o

 

[Brocky]

I use, not leave stubs, don’t like spikes, and can’t adapt to them. Use a minimum amount and size of stubs that are strategically placed.

 

[Willber]

I use, not leave stubs, don’t like spikes, and can’t adapt to them. Use a minimum amount and size of stubs that are strategically placed.

I don’t leave stubs, only use them for when they can be used. And, I will and have used spikes, it’s just some times they’re not needed and it can be more fun and less damaging to things around the trees being taken down.

 

[Dan Cobb]

When I first started doing tree work, it was just on my own property, using mostly techniques and equipment from caving and rescue. When I finally got into doing more serious arborist work, I found there are usually good reasons arborists utilize certain techniques and equipment. This forum has been a great resource for me.

You seem to be towards the fringe of what's considered normal or typical with regards to climbing. If your methods work for you that's great, but I've found generally accepted techniques are generally accepted for good reasons.

 

[treegongfu]

"Calamine was my fav of all time. I no longer have any and only the CE is sold ( nylon core ). "

Fooook! I finally got some and didn't notice the change.

 

[Willber]

When I first started doing tree work, it was just on my own property, using mostly techniques and equipment from caving and rescue. When I finally got into doing more serious arborist work, I found there are usually good reasons arborists utilize certain techniques and equipment. This forum has been a great resource for me.

You seem to be towards the fringe of what's considered normal or typical with regards to climbing. If your methods work for you that's great, but I've found generally accepted techniques are generally accepted for good reasons.

Yes, I agree about general techniques, and I’ll use ascenders soon. Just unique situations call for unique requests.

I only “braced” that Y because if I didn’t, I thought, well it’s usually the times one says oh is it really necessary this time, (because there are many unseen variables in the nature of trees), yet this time just might be the time intervention could’ve thwarted a calamity.

 

[Willber]

1st platinum teufelberger
2nd gleistien lizard
3rd nothing else is close in my opinion, mushy, flattens etc
the platinum that i use the 10.5 both the nylon and the poly types work well in ART products, Taz lov, brief try on akimbo and rrpro worked well also.
great in the hand, longest lived ropes i've ever owned, well worth the money in every respect.
Firmer, lighter, stronger, safer
I am quite convinced the clutches and wear on my devices are far less due to the solid nature and tight weave of the Teufelberger Platinum plus NO milking
It's not for everybody, grip it in the knuckle not the palm, and use of handled ascender for any long travel up to save wear and tear on joints.
I guess its has lower coeffecient of friction, redirects pull out easily tailing and pulling the belly out etc is easier.
My work is mostly crown reduction on over extending limbs and leads in hardwoods and occasionally large Norway spruce and white pines.View attachment 79526View attachment 79526

I might just get TB platinum if it was made in 12mm or minimum of 11.8
How is the grip on the platinum, when roughed in?
Because, one thing I see that I like about the Platinum, that it is a 32 braid with 4 carrier strands, same as the Beal Access rope.

 

[islandarb]

I might just get TB platinum if it was made in 12mm or minimum of 11.8
How is the grip on the platinum, when roughed in?
Because, one thing I see that I like about the Platinum, that it is a 32 braid with 4 carrier strands, same as the Beal Access rope.

I had the 11.7 platinum in 2013ish . It was orange. That was some wild fucked up weird ass rope. Gifted it to my buddy Sam Cooper. He agreed. Back then we were wild on 24 strand 11.7 anything. I still am.

 

[Mowerr]

I have owned all yale11.7s.....too many to start calling here. Many iterations of small runs. They are all similar but not exact. Calamine was my fav of all time. I no longer have any and only the CE is sold ( nylon core ). Drenaline and xstatic are not for me. Owned them both. I found xtatic bouncy and drenaline way to bouncy. I could grip both easy. Well made rope but just not for me. Xstatic is supposed to be low stretch. Hell no in my opinion. Static poly kernmaster is good but skinny and not durable. Marlow vega is another top notch rope. Insanely durable and static. Tuff as nails 11.7. Cherry bomb and blue craze were good. Rocket in that line was also good.....cougar blue and grey also very good 11.7s.

Love to see you this involved in any thread...how do you feel about Yale blaze?
I love the 11.7s too but I'm in a pinch for a new rope rn and I can get the Hank I want for the price I got