LockJack/biner set up

[frans]

At present I use a DMM Wales captive eye alum.triple lock biner on the clevis end of my sport, and a simple triple lock biner alum on the other end.
I am searching for a cleaner smaller biner to use than the DMM (it is BIG). I found a biner in HB wales' catalog that uses a "scroll pin" removable with pliers, that makes a captive eye. But this is not triple locking... so I am still searching.
What do other climbers use w/ the lockJack sport?
Frans

 

[Ghivelder]

I use two Petzl "AM'D Ball Lock".

Sergio

 

[frans]

O.K. two biners is fine. But does'nt it "walk" on the biner? Or at the very least move around to different points on the biner and catch on the gate hinge attachment points?
This is why I went to a captive eye biner.
I was thinking of using the Petzl quick draw slings maybe...
frans

 

[Ghivelder]

Hurbert (the inventor of the lockjack) advises us to be very careful in choosing the binners. The point is that the lower binner has to be small enough so that the wooden ball can't, by chance, go through. Otherwise it could lock inside and send you down. When I first heard this, I thought it was exagerated, but then I've tried it and realized it could happen. Apart from that, you can use anything you like...

Sergio

 

[treeclimber165]

I would think that a Petzl like Sergio suggested would be fine, maybe adding a leather or steel corner trap to keep the lockjack from moving around. Steel ones are $2 each, leather ones are $5 per dozen.

 

[Tom Dunlap]

I've used Am'd biners for my LJ, both versions II and III with no problems. The lower biner that attaches to my saddle is secured to the sliding shackle with a nylon zip tie. This keeps the biner oriented so that the gate is always on the right and doesn't spin or cross load.

I wasn't aware of the importance of a small biner for the lower. I could see how the wooden handle could catch. Yikes!

Tom