Locked brummel for winch thimble

Tom Dunlap

Here from the beginning
Administrator
I removed the steel cable from my winch and bought 5/16” dia Dyneema. Now it’s time to splice the thimble in. Locked brummel seems like the best choice

Before posting I looked in the Treebuzz archives, Google and You Tube.

There seems to be different ways to splice it. Some instructions are t illustrated or well written

What directions should I follow?

Is a locked brummel the best choice?
 
Locked brummel for security and Samson’s instructions for 12 strand class II, with a precise long gradual final taper.
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I like locked brummel because it is foolproof. Honestly won't take very long to pull 200'of tail through, then never have to worry again.

Dyneema is slippery stuff and needs a LONG straight burry. Extra rigid for the most abused section of line, no thanks
 
I don’t see the pigtail that I associate with a locked brummel

Fid length changes with diameter I know I’ll have to get more info
The instructions shown doesn’t have a locked brummel, only a straight bury. The fid length for 5/16” is 6 3/4”. As long as the stitching to prevent the bury from coming out is protected, a straight is strong as well.
 
The short buries are beneficial for hitch cords and there are two to share the load, a climber’s body weight. Winching will see higher loads and really no reason not to do a longer one.
 
From some sailing forums most agree with the 3 fid lengths for a straight bury, and a locked brummel reduces the strength by ten percent, it is there for preventing the bury cycling out with constant flogging on a sailboat. A long gradual taper was also stressed, to the point that the last strand is tapered.
 

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