Larger tree transplanting

BuckmasterTreeService · Feb 7, 2018

I have a customer that had an oak tree transplanted that was too large to move.

The company that transplanted it used a tree spade that was too small to get enough roots.

Is there anything that can be done to increase the likelihood of survival?

Jackjcc · Feb 7, 2018

Crown reduction has been done before moving, not sure if I know of any specific studies. A corresponding loss in canopy generally follow root loss during transplant. There’s usually a lot of tip die back when a spade is used that is too small. Spading also causes soil glazing that limits root penetration from the cone into surrounding soil.

What does the tree look like now? Tip die back?

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flyingsquirrel25 · Feb 7, 2018

Water management, water management, water management. Insuring enough water is provided but not too much to cause root decay. With all of our planting contracts we offer our clients care instructions including watering. Our general rule is 5 gallons per inch in caliper per week. If we get a really hot and dry period I recommend they water twice a week at the same rate each watering. As long as the remaining roots are allowed to regenerate and not dry out and die it should recover. It may take a couple years of intense monitoring. Its important, if you see leaves wilting damage is being done.
Also high quality composted wood chip mulch is a good thing to help with the water conservation and management. Pruning may be necessary, but we normally wait until the tree dictates pruning is needed (ie die back) this way we don't over stress from the top and bottom. Its important to remember trees are self optimizing and will respond as needed... As long as their needs are met.

JD3000 · Feb 7, 2018

Cant add much but perhaps loosening the soil as deeply as possibly beyond the planting pit and extend the mulch bed.

PGR may help at a mild rate and dont fertilize it!

ATH · Feb 8, 2018

Don't prune. If the tree can't support branches, it will self prune. You want as many "food factories" getting sugars back to the roots as possible.

As was said, water and soil management. I don't think 5 gallons per week per inch is enough. I'd start at 15 gallons THEN add 5 gallons per inch. Spread it over 2 waterings. Cut in half for each 1/2" of rain you get within a week (1" of rain = no additional water). Add a 3rd watering of another +/-25-30 gallons if it is a hot/dry week. Make it as easy as possible for those roots to get growing into the new soil. Like JD3000 said, I'd also consider a low dose cambistat (PGR) treatment to invigorate root growth.

It is kinda ironic isn't it: "Client A" pays big money to get big tree. Then Client A pays more money for soil improvement to keep big tree alive. Then pays more money to slow its top growth and help its roots catch up. All the while paying more money to put enough water into the tree.

Meanwhile, "Client B" plants a smaller tree at 30%* of the cost of Client A. Spends less money watering. In about 6-8 years* both trees are the same size.

*Obviously cost difference and time to "size equalization" depends on initial size difference. I'm thinking like 2.5" vs. 5"...

JD3000 · Feb 8, 2018

+1 on watch the pruning. Auxin in terminals buds will stimulate root growth in late winter/early spring so less buds = less root development (probably...).

Let the tree tell you it needs some dead taken out.

flyingsquirrel25 · Feb 8, 2018

PGR is a great idea. Watch the leaf size as it will produce smaller leaves. It’s not a big deal to the tree, but it’s water usage will change. Less leaf surface equals less respiration and less transpirational water loss. The trees success will be measured by how well you manage the water, too little it will wilt and be stressed. Too much and you can rot the roots right out from under it.
One thing we offer to clients we aren’t sure will follow through with watering is the installation of netifim irrigation tubing. It’s drip irrigation that rates the emitters in gallons per hour. A little math and it’s fairly simple to figure out how long to have it turned on. Throw a good timer on it and it’s automated. But trained eyes looking at the tree periodically is a MUST!
You should certainly post some pictures of this tree and keep us updated on how it’s doing!