Serf Life
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Maine Island
Man, fuck that tree. I’ll sleep better knowing it’s down.
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$2 to kill it $1798 to haul it away.Curious what others would quote that at?
I'm thinking based on 2 pictures - which I would never actually quote from, but this is just for kicks:
+/-$1000 for the pruning
+/- $750 for the cables
+/- $350 for the rods
Oh my!and the crack was growing.
Yes, I did. Thanks for that suggestion.Did you recommend they ask if the power company would take it down?
Try melatonin. No need to remove a tree that someone else knows how to manage.Man, fuck that tree. I’ll sleep better knowing it’s down.
That is not a tree I would use a dynamic system in, because it is so badly compromised. If you are going to cable it, use steel cable. But be aware, without bolting the trunk, it is very likely it will fall apart anyway, cables or not.Good thread - learned some things. I don't do hardly any cabling. Here's a mulberry that I mistakenly sugg. to the owner, cabling might B a possibility. But the innards aren't solid. It's hollow as hell and I see a lot of frass and nonsense. Also the recommendations here for putting rods thru and s__t - I don't have the euipment to put rods thru a trunk this size. After I read thru what you all have to say here, it's easy to recognize this mulberry's a gonner. (at least half of it) I would only cable a CRACK in otherwise strong, healthy wood. Never a hollow mess like this.
But I DO have a question about the TreeGuard rope system... HOW DO YOU TENSION IT? Do I use my 12:1 mech advantage system to pull the limbs in, splice the TreeGuard tight as I can... and then let it go?
Thank you.
I'm not sure that the length of the split matters. Why does it matter if it's 5 inches or 10 feet all the way down through the root ball? Both conditions can be addressed, and quite similarly.