Lanyards

T

Todd_K.

I changed my lanyard set up about six months ago and really like it. I use to use a micro acender with a half bent quik link, used it for years with no trouble, except the exta hardware. Now I run a french prusik tied off directly to my dee ring, with technora. It works really well and there is no hardware which releaves some of the clutter and weight, I like to climb as light as possiable. Has anyone tried this?
 
I currently use a 2n1 with a prusik terminated with girth hitch to d ring with a micro pulley to allow one hand operation.
Does anybody use grillion do you like it?
 
I have been useing the grillon with a half twist link and it works well for me. The only thing is the cost of a replacement lanyard. I have upgraded with a piece of 9mm double braid that I spliced. I have a few different lengths depending on what I am doing. On my other saddle I have a length of 10mm with a 8mm prussic and micro pulley set up attatched with a small screw type biner. They both work well.
 
I'm not dave but the advantage of the grillon is that you can adjust the length with you body weight on it and it looks cool.
 
another advantage to using either Grillion or friction hitch w/micro pulley is that I've used it as a secondary line. By moving the Grillion or hitch to my center tie in point and choking off the lead it ennables me to go twice as far. Though I have to go back to get the lead end, it gives another option to use. I've used the Grillion for just a few months and like using a friction hitch w/pulley a little better. lighter and less bulky.
 
When using gaffs and two lanyards where do you fasten your second lanyard?
I have been using the single small D`s on my saddle but they are pretty congested with two lanyards.
I`m thinking of using the saddle loops and biners to fasten the second lanyard.
 
Good question. I use a only one lanyard and don't get on gaffs as much as I use to. I know for myself my second lanyard when needed is my climbing line. This works well only if you are using a split tail system. Being tied in twice is a good idea especially when but hitching down a log. You always want to have yourself tied with a single point attacthment point. What this means is if the piece was to begin to peel off prematurely do excessive weight or pull it wont suck you in as it would if you were just tied in with your lanyard on you side D rings. When you have climbing line tied around the log and cinched up tight it "should" hold things together. This may be getting off the topic but better safe than sorry. When notching a top or what ever and it has a hard lean, weight or pull in the direction of fall it is best to make your notch, plunge cut leaving a strap in the back and cuting up to your notch leaving the right amount of hinge wood. Once this is done just cut the strap in the back and hold on. It's alot of fun. Good luck wiht it.
 
BJ,
Most of my work consists of removing one limb sometimes more but usually just one limb from a tree that has fallen on the cable.
I`ve used a rope for a tie in but it`s hardly worth the bother for one limb.
I`m using a wire core and a separate rope lanyard for a safety tie in when moving up through the tree.
I have yet to try a biner but I don`t really see another option.
I know many climbers use two lanyards and I was wondering what worked for them?

[ August 04, 2002: Message edited by: Kevin ]
 
What Jon said.

If you are leaning out to cut a branch and wished you had another 2 inches of slack, just thumb the release, you don't have to unweight the line like a microscender or gibbs.

It seems like a small advantage for the price, but I would not want to go back. If I ever lose it or it wears out, I will probably try a knot and micropully.
 
Hey Kevin.
Why wouldn't you use a short lifeline? Especially for easy descent, it is well worth the 2 minutes to roll it back up afterwards. Over 90% of my climbing is with a 75' lifeline, much less to deal with than my 125'-150' ropes. But I also have a couple shorter ropes for small trees or short ascents.

I use an older style saddle with large D-rings. I use 2 lanyards sometimes on pine removals, faster and easier when blocking down chunks (for me, anyways). Then I'll retie my lifeline when it's short enough to flop and descend on the rope.

As for attaching 2 lanyards to small D-rings, I'm afraid I can't help. But I think a different setup or different approach would work well for you. I'd say to buy a new lifeline and make a couple shorter lines out of your current one.

treeclimber165
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[ August 05, 2002: Message edited by: Brian ]

[ August 05, 2002: Message edited by: Brian ]
 
It`s usually pretty thick with under growth and by the time I get the throw line sent up and pull the rope up and get tied in I`m standing there thinking to myself ... why didn`t you just climb it,you would have been finished by now!
Although I do enjoy climbing on the rope and it helps to keep my pants up, especially with the added weight of the saw.
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Hmmmm........I can't help but to think you have more problems than just your lanyard. If you just going for one limb and your pruning you shouldn't be wearing the gaffs. I have spent alot time on gaffs myself and they are hard to give up. Now I hardly use them that is for removals only. When I did use gaffs I only used on lanyard. Sometime I wouldn't lanyard in at all while ascending until I went to tie in. But any way I would suggest giving up the steel core. If you need a double lanyard set I suggest the two in one. It's a double ended lanyard with a prussic in the middle. If you need one handed operation just add a micro pulley. You owe it to yourself to give up the gaffs.
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The friction hitch on my lanyard is terminated onto my d-ring using double fisherman's hitches. I use a three over two distal for an adjuster. Under the hitch I clip a key chain biner to use as a slack tender. When I use the other end of my lanyard I unclip the biner so that I don't slide all of the slack off the rope. With the hitch, I can tension and slack with one hand like the Grion but with less cost, clutter and weight.

Chad showed me a double ended flipline setup using a double sheave pulley and two friction hitches. This has the potential for being a nice way to carry a long flipline and still be able to snug up both ends for exact positioning.

Howard from New England Ropes has a nice looking rope that should make a nice lanyard. It has the feel and stiffness of a wire core but it's all fiber so the rope is light weight. The rope can be spliced too just like Sta Set X.

Tom
 
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Tom Dunlap:
The friction hitch on my lanyard is terminated onto my d-ring using double fisherman's hitches. I use a three over two distal for an adjuster.

Tom<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Tom;

If you used two over two, would it be a two over two distal or a tautline tied as a closed system?

Mahk

[ August 06, 2002: Message edited by: Mahk Adams ]
 
Mahk,

The Distal can be thought of as a closed tautline. You know that though. This is just another part of knot nomenclature.

The end that has three turns is my main end that I work from. I have a plain flat aluminum snap on that end. The other one is red and to remind me to take off the slack tender biner when I use the "bottom" end of the flipline. When I first set up this flipline I found that with the cord/rope combo a two over two would slip just a little. Adding the third turn on the "top" works just fine. Now that the cord/line are worn in I might just drop one round turn.

I think that using a hithc for an adjuster on the flipline is one place where a knot really out performs a michancial device. Besides, its cheaper. that leaves more money to buy more mechanical devices
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Tom
 
Tom,
I just tied and tried the Distal, 3/2 and it seems to be just the ticket I was looking for.
I attached a micro pulley and it works really well in both directions on my lanyard.
I`ll test it in the trees tomorrow, thanks.
 
Originally posted by Tom Dunlap:


The Distal can be thought of as a closed tautline.


Tom;

Yes that is what I had thought. I saw a photo of the knot tied as I described (two over two as a closed system), however, and it was labeled "tautline". This made me start to ask people's opinion about when a tautline 'becomes' a Distal. The consensus seems to be that a tautline is open, a Distal is closed.

Someone on another forum had written that the Distal is to the tautline as the Schwabisch is to the Prusik, but that is not a straight comparison. The Prusik can be tied as a closed system, an open system, with a single cord or with an endless loop. It is recognized as a Prusik whether tied with two, three or four wraps. But, if tied with only one wrap it is a girth hitch and if tied asymetrically it is a Schwabisch.

Unlike the Prusik, a tautline can be tied asymetrically (one over two) and still be called a tautline. But, when the tautline is tied as a closed system it becomes a Distal, whether tied asymetrically or not. Also, when the Distal is tied as something over one (eg. four over one) some people think of it as a clove hitch with additional wraps on top.

As you said, "knot nomenclature".

I too went from using a mechanical device to using a knot to adjust my lanyard. I have a Valdotain on it now and sometimes use a Schwabisch. The only time I use a mechanical device is for trees that have a lot of sap that gums up the lanyard and prevents the friction hitch from working smoothly. Then I use a Microcender until the sap wears off and I put a friction hitch on again.


Mahk
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