I have been climbing on 11mm HTP and love it, but those times when I have 275-350 ft of line in my basal system there is just a little too much bounce for my liking. Is there anything with even less stretch than the HTP, or do I just start climbing on cable?
I want a rope with almost zero stretch.
- Thread starter rico
- Start date
chiselbit
Been here a while
Cable. Or move to a place with shorter trees. I thought htp was the stiffest non stretchiest rope out there. Interested to see what the rope guru’s have to say
evo
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- My Island, WA
amsteel! But truely yale 11.7, hpt etc are about it unless you get into tech cordage
RopeShield
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
dyneema mb double braid
Crimsonking
Been here a while
Escalator is super static, available from bartlettman.
You are not alone in this search. But full-on static lines are not forgiving or safe in potentially dynamic situations, like tree climbing.
I would encourage you to, instead, diagnose where and how bounce is entering your system and then change that, not your rope.
I would encourage you to, instead, diagnose where and how bounce is entering your system and then change that, not your rope.
RopeShield
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
dyneema is the only thing I would consider if i was working heights and lengths you are
1 the weigh - its silly how light it is
2 the strength - stronger than steel, strongest there is
3 wear is excellent
4 you can easily build in a shock absorber, daisy chain a few ft
5 easieast to splice cause it is slick
the list goes on and on and on, fn expensive though
talk to Jason at Maple Leaf Ropes I got some unbelievable deals on 1000 ft of 9/16 and 3/8 200'
world wide you will not find a better rope co
1 the weigh - its silly how light it is
2 the strength - stronger than steel, strongest there is
3 wear is excellent
4 you can easily build in a shock absorber, daisy chain a few ft
5 easieast to splice cause it is slick
the list goes on and on and on, fn expensive though
talk to Jason at Maple Leaf Ropes I got some unbelievable deals on 1000 ft of 9/16 and 3/8 200'
world wide you will not find a better rope co
I have it. No. HTP is it or escalator....
With a non-dyneema sheath, right? If he burns out from 250' he will melt dyneema.
Wesspur lists Sterling HTP 1/2" at .9% elongation at 10% MBS. Xstatic is next at 1.4% Yale 11.7 at 1.7%. These are about the most static I have found. I love my Xstatic! And MBS on the HTP is something in the 9K# range so it would be almost like steel.
Chaplain242
Branched out member
Doing cliff work we climbed on full static lines with dynamic cows tails on ascenders for absorbing any fall shock. Can get those anchor brakes:
These allow some slip as well as the dynamic lanyard to absorb shock. Of course if using a croll these won’t help you, but using a chest roller can work.
evo
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- My Island, WA
Can you join two ropes? You could do some kind of dyneema with a cover for the base anchor side of your line, HTP on your climbing side? After reaching your TIP just drop the knot/carabiner and switch to a base anchored system?
Birdyman88
Branched out member
- Location
- Arlington
Replace half of your 7/16 system with 1/2" HTP. Still climb on the 7/16 side. Connect the halves using sewn eye and a 3/8 quick link.
Here's the math. 7/16 is 2.5% @ 300 lb. 1/2 is .9% @ 300 lb. Basically average the two halves. Right now your seeing 2.5% @ 300lb The new way you would see 1.7% @ 300 lb, a 33% reduction in stretch. Or you could just go 1/2 all the way for a 66% reduction in stretch. You could still climb on either side if need be.
In reality, because of the friction of your line over crotches, the climbing side elongation number will have to be weighted higher than the non-climbing side elongation, so you may not see the full reduction from the calculation.
Here's the math. 7/16 is 2.5% @ 300 lb. 1/2 is .9% @ 300 lb. Basically average the two halves. Right now your seeing 2.5% @ 300lb The new way you would see 1.7% @ 300 lb, a 33% reduction in stretch. Or you could just go 1/2 all the way for a 66% reduction in stretch. You could still climb on either side if need be.
In reality, because of the friction of your line over crotches, the climbing side elongation number will have to be weighted higher than the non-climbing side elongation, so you may not see the full reduction from the calculation.
Last edited:
Birdyman88
Branched out member
- Location
- Arlington
If its only the ascent thats bothering you, heres another option without changing line.
Shoot throwline like normal. Attach quicklink to eye of line, leave throwball on throwline and "clip" throwline into link. Pull up line, which is really being done by throwball acting on link. When line is up, over, and coming down find a suitable limb/crotch halfway-ish down and let throwball drop on opposite side of that limb/crotch from line path. When ball hits ground, connect opposite end of throwline to end with ball. You now have throwline loop around that branch. Now pull ball back up and over and finish bringing climb line down on original path. Now attach a second ball on other side of link, or create a way to "fix" the ball (in case you meed to work line nack and forth). Now, keep pulling throwline line back up and around the limb/ crotch forming a one wrap canopy tie. Now tension back side and set basal anchor. Youll essentially climb the first half on a much shorter efective length via the temporary canopy tie. Of course, you gotta lanyard in and unwrap it for the second leg of ascent. Takes extra time, but will get rid of a lot of bounce. Then again, maybe this idea sucks, lol.
Shoot throwline like normal. Attach quicklink to eye of line, leave throwball on throwline and "clip" throwline into link. Pull up line, which is really being done by throwball acting on link. When line is up, over, and coming down find a suitable limb/crotch halfway-ish down and let throwball drop on opposite side of that limb/crotch from line path. When ball hits ground, connect opposite end of throwline to end with ball. You now have throwline loop around that branch. Now pull ball back up and over and finish bringing climb line down on original path. Now attach a second ball on other side of link, or create a way to "fix" the ball (in case you meed to work line nack and forth). Now, keep pulling throwline line back up and around the limb/ crotch forming a one wrap canopy tie. Now tension back side and set basal anchor. Youll essentially climb the first half on a much shorter efective length via the temporary canopy tie. Of course, you gotta lanyard in and unwrap it for the second leg of ascent. Takes extra time, but will get rid of a lot of bounce. Then again, maybe this idea sucks, lol.
Chaplain242
Branched out member
I’d be worried if I got it wrong I would have tied a knot in the tree....
Can always go old school and footlock prusik on twin line (same line just no basal anchor tie)... that would reduce stretch a fair amount.
Could also use the twin ascender to do same thing with less chance binding so can rest on ascent...
moss
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Carlisle, Massachusetts, U.S.
Birdyman88
Branched out member
- Location
- Arlington
There was a Sterling rep, @Meagan Cooper, that came on the board a week or so ago. I think it was on the Sherrill acquisition thread. Maybe she can give you some inside info.
Crimsonking
Been here a while
Evo hated it. I’ve used it very little, but can say that at your size, the wrench may suck with it. The hh2 my be a good fit? Thoughts, @rope-a-dope?
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