I want a rope with almost zero stretch.

12.5 htp sucks on the wrench, but was doable. If I remember correctly dialing a hitch was a little bit of a pain, my go to VT was fickle and sometimes on ascent would loosen to the point of not wanting to grab. Stiff rope (heavy!) with poor hand. It can take knots, but not well (twice as likely for a unloaded bowline to shake out than a Samson 16 strand). It’s the most static rope I’ve climbed on which I loved.
 
I bet a wider wrench could be shop-made.

The original wrench, after a metal wrench experiment, as I read it, was made from a stick.


12.5 will have a higher SWL, so the 10% weight added will be proportional to the rope, not your weight.

If they have the same elongation at 10% SWL, the 12.5 should be stiffer for the same mass ascending.




A Yates Screamer would be a nice addition to the base-tie.
 
Rico knows about htp and hh2. Unbreakable. The larger htp line would probably be even better action than 11mm. Never seen the big stuff, but I'm sure it inspires confidence!
 
I bet a wider wrench could be shop-made.

The original wrench, after a metal wrench experiment, as I read it, was made from a stick.


12.5 will have a higher SWL, so the 10% weight added will be proportional to the rope, not your weight.

If they have the same elongation at 10% SWL, the 12.5 should be stiffer for the same mass ascending.




A Yates Screamer would be a nice addition to the base-tie.
Old school wrench worked well, the time or two I used it. The weight and stiffness killed it for me. Played hell trying to re thread my tail in the canopy. It’s not a bad rope, and would be good for a static leg on a srt base anchor clear ascent worked great. I’d consider it if all I had to do was up and down, but I’m not a removal guy.
I’d hate to think what a 300’ hank would weigh, I’d bet it would burn the thowline into bark at those lengths/weights
 
I'm only seeing 11 or 13 mm htp...

The 11mm (nominally 7/16") is the smaller version of HTP.
The 13mm (nominally 1/2") is the bigger version of HTP.

Rope sizes are nominal, usually measured under some tension (often 50 lbs. but it varies from one OEM to the next) and the marketing guys and distributors and retail people might label it as anything.

My smaller HTP is 10.5mm and was sold as such, but a friend's was sold as 11mm and is the same. My larger HTP comes in at around 12.8mm and was sold as 1/2". You get used to this, after awhile. Rope diameter can vary quite a bit within a single hank, let alone from one production run to another.
 
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Marlow Vega is listed with a slightly higher elongation at 1.2%, but it's a 24 strand, not a kernmantle, so it may give you a different feel regardless of the numbers.
 
Hey @rico I'd also vote for the 10mm HTP as being way more static and nicer to work with than 11mm. The cover is a lot tighter to the core vs 11mm.

I work a fair amount of red tree vole surveys here in OR, and a lot of the guys (myself included) will use 8mm amsteel on the anchor side of an SRT line. Makes the whole kit a lot lighter and smaller in your pack. For climbing 300ft trees you can pack 250ft of amsteel and 350ft of HTP. A side effect is that it reduces the stretch because only half the system is rope; the other half is as static as cable.

There's a whole lot of potential problems with this setup, but I bet you can figure out what they are. Anyone else reading, I wouldn't recommend this setup unless you really know what you're doing and are really certain of your TIP.
 
Hey @rico I'd also vote for the 10mm HTP as being way more static and nicer to work with than 11mm. The cover is a lot tighter to the core vs 11mm.

I work a fair amount of red tree vole surveys here in OR, and a lot of the guys (myself included) will use 8mm amsteel on the anchor side of an SRT line. Makes the whole kit a lot lighter and smaller in your pack. For climbing 300ft trees you can pack 250ft of amsteel and 350ft of HTP. A side effect is that it reduces the stretch because only half the system is rope; the other half is as static as cable.

There's a whole lot of potential problems with this setup, but I bet you can figure out what they are. Anyone else reading, I wouldn't recommend this setup unless you really know what you're doing and are really certain of your TIP.
How do you join the amsteel with the climb line? Knots or hardware?
 

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