How to choose the best line?

N

Nahgoajail

Location
sydney Australia
Hi guys,

I am a new climber but i 'm really into it and I must say I love it!
I got 3 ropes, all 11.1mm HTP, 60m, 45m, 30m.

I have been climbing for about 6 month.
Usually I use SRT for access, then leave the access rope and tie in a Ddrt system either on a friction saver or over a natural crotch.
So far it seemed to me my HTP was performing very well DdRT, My hitch grabs and releases great and I m having a lot of fun.
Some people have commented on the fact that HTP is too static for Ddrt and that it's a big no-no.
I understand the fact that a stiff rope will transfer more energy to my tip and my body if I ever take a drop.
Some people also said that the core on HTP is stitched to the sheath every 10 inch and so bending it around a crotch could break the stitching and be dangerous? Apparently they also mentioned I would be ok to use HTP in a Ddrt system when using a friction saver/false crotch?
Could you please give me more info on the matter.
So far I was under the understanding that a ''good rope'' was a strong rope that wouldn't break.
I understand now that they are many factors to look at when choosing a rope. My next line will probably be Tachyon or poison ivy, with a bit more stretch for Ddrt.
I won't be able to buy a new line for a bit so do you think it is still ok to use HTP in DdRT or should i stop altogether? Thanks for your help guys.
 
You have asked an intresting question and no doubt will get more info than you actually wanted!

nahgoajail, these are general comments, do not take them a as critique of you or how you climb. I know nothing about either and would not presume too! Just some info.

The real question here is what is dynamic and what is static. Again a long philosophical debate could and may insue! Generally speaking those terms harken back to high angle pursuits other than tree climbing.

To put numbers to it let's compare Sterling HTP with Sterling Tendril. HTP being "static" (.09 elongation at 220lb) Tendril being "dynamic. (3.3 elongation at 3oo lbs.). What does this really mean? How far do you intend to fall? How much rope in the system. A 12" slip with just about any rope will feel the same. The difference in elongation is mitigated by the small amount of rope in the system. Slack is mitigated by sound climbing practices. Regularly experience to factor 2 falls, long sweeping swings and grotesque amount of slack in the climbing system, while tree climbing? Adjust technique not rope!

Proper tree climbing technique, slack tending and suitable anchor point selection are you best protection, not rope elongation. Think about it. Even in a really big tree, how far will you fall when using proper technique? Add to that the further from the tie in point or the more rope in the system as in a basal anchor and the dynamics change yet again.

My point is to look at the data, look at your climbing system and medium and make your choice based on that. 2:1 climbing on HTP? With proper technique, why not. If you are concerned about shook absorb action, climb only on wet days :).

Elongation is just one factor to consider. Abrasion resistance, length, construction, materials, use, all combine to make the "best" line. These are choices the climber must make and no "silver bullet" exists.

As an industry we really need to get a handle on this static vs. dynamic argument.

Tony
 
Nahgoajail said:
Hi guys,

I am a new climber but i 'm really into it and I must say I love it!
I got 3 ropes, all 11.1mm HTP, 60m, 45m, 30m.

I have been climbing for about 6 month.
Usually I use SRT for access, then leave the access rope and tie in a Ddrt system either on a friction saver or over a natural crotch.
So far it seemed to me my HTP was performing very well DdRT, My hitch grabs and releases great and I m having a lot of fun.
Some people have commented on the fact that HTP is too static for Ddrt and that it's a big no-no.
I understand the fact that a stiff rope will transfer more energy to my tip and my body if I ever take a drop.
Some people also said that the core on HTP is stitched to the sheath every 10 inch and so bending it around a crotch could break the stitching and be dangerous? Apparently they also mentioned I would be ok to use HTP in a Ddrt system when using a friction saver/false crotch?
Could you please give me more info on the matter.
So far I was under the understanding that a ''good rope'' was a strong rope that wouldn't break.
I understand now that they are many factors to look at when choosing a rope. My next line will probably be Tachyon or poison ivy, with a bit more stretch for Ddrt.
I won't be able to buy a new line for a bit so do you think it is still ok to use HTP in DdRT or should i stop altogether? Thanks for your help guys.
Click to expand...

I am sure you will get many different opinions on this topic, but here is my two-cents worth. All arborist ropes have relatively low stretch, and the whole idea is to always set your anchor so that you NEVER take a fall. So, I think you should choose your rope based on the type of climbing that you do. If you do lots of long ascents in big trees, then ropes that have almost no stretch and that have a very tough outer sheath (e.g., Escalator, HTP, Platinum) are great. But, those ropes are really hard and stiff, have terrible hand, are lousy for footlocking, cannot be home spliced, and generally suck for dDrt or Hybrid SRT systems. In contrast, most double braid ropes (e.g., Tendril, Velocity, Poison Ivy, Tachyon, Blaze, etc.) have nice hand, hold knots really well, work well for footlocking, can be home spliced, and work well with virtually all types of friction hitches and mechanical ascenders. So, if you are going to be doing lots of limbwalking and swinging around in hardwoods, I would get a good double-braid. But if you are going to be doing mostly long ascents in big conifers go with the stiff stuff.
 
I dunno about escalate or http but u have platinum all wrong 10.5 is similar to double braids like velocity.. good knot good with the wrench LJ and SJ
 
I agree with what every one has said. One thing not mentioned is climbing Ddrt you have two legs of rope sharing your weight, what ever elongation is tested on a single leg. So lets say you weigh 200# on a rope that elongates 5% @ 200#. If your hanging from 100' you can expect your rope to stretch 5' in a srt system. However if your hanging from 100' on a Ddrt system it would be much more static, half the amount of elongation and twice the amount of rope I believe.
I wouldn't think that it's a big deal, just keep your slack tended, and dont fall.
 
Thanks for the response guys. My next line will definitively be a bit more polyvalent but i m gonna keep on climbing my HTP until i get it.
I try to be as careful as possible with slack and try to have redirect as much as I can. I haven't slipped or fell ever so far. I am really careful with choosing my anchors, i usually don t go for it if i can t see it well that s why i switch over to DdRT once i reach my first tip. Them i just ping pong with my landyard and my 30m HTP to the top. Lots of people are saying Static ropes doesn t work with textile hitches especially HTP. I never found it to be an issue, altough i use anything than the Blakes hitch on a 8mm split tail.
I got myself a DMM triple pulley the other day and i was playing with it on my patio. The VT definitively struggled to grab the rope sometimes especially while advancing the knot without having the full load on it (limbwalking?).
I m glad i tried on solid ground first. I have been playing with different hitches and Michoacan seems ok. I also tried to tie a Blakes hitch ''on the bite'' with the legs attached to the bottom hole of the pulley and it seems the work the best.
 
I climb srt and drt. I love tachyon and have been on sterling tendril for two weeks now. Both are a great do all rope. I personally would only ever use static for access. Good TIP and slack tending is key to a successful climb in my experience.
 
FWIW, using a Hitch Hiker on 11mm HTP, I have found blue bee line and a distel hitch to work well.
 
Simpleiowaguy said:
I climb srt and drt. I love tachyon and have been on sterling tendril for two weeks now. Both are a great do all rope. I personally would only ever use static for access. Good TIP and slack tending is key to a successful climb in my experience.
Click to expand...
question about the tendril- its listed as 11.1mm but I saw a sterling article that said it was 11.6? could u compare the stretch to another rope?
 
I could only milk 14 inches off of a 135 ft hank. It has a very very low stretch for me (260 LBS). Using armor plus 9 mm with distel hitch.
 
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