Homemade Chainsaw Lanyard

bonner1040

Branched out member
Location
Boston
I have long been dissatisfied with the Ring>snap or ring>ring chainsaw lanyards available. I always wanted one with biners or snaps on both sides. I made one up last week for a coworker and another today for myself.

The first has a girth loop for the saw side and the second has a small quicklink. Both use a biner for the 'close saddle' connection and one has a snap while the other has a cheapo screwlock for the 'back saddle' connection.

First:

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Second:

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Its all hand stitched and measured from the center of my back>shoulder + shoulder>middlefinger. Excuse the soot marks on the heatshrink :) The second I switched the orientation of the saw and close connection to change the way it hangs if left dangling below you.

The 7mm acc cord is tightly woven, strong, durble and easy to work with. $.33/foot
 
Nice work Nick!

I think I still prefer webbing. the reason being is when you have to drop the saw fast it doesn't burn your hand as much as rope, no what I mean.
The new Petzl biner is sweet.Love mine!
The Screw link is perfect cnctr, I am doin that to.
Thanks Man!
 
Nick Looks nice and fucntional and I agree with your frustration with the rings. They always seem to get hung up on my paddle biner on the side of my saddle. Just be careful if the saw gets caught in something, there doesnt look like much chance that will break away. I think that is a very important feature.
 
I hear ya FS, I am going to mock one up and test how easy/hard it is to break. I went pretty light with the stitching at the back saddle connection, so my hope is that it will break there. I have never had a breakaway lanyard before though so I try to be as conscious as possible of not getting my saw snatched.

The small 1/8" QL is Petzl made, with a SWL of 100kg or 225lbs so it might not even hold the 020/200/201T's we use... (cheap shot, I am sure it will hold 5x that).

I used a waxed twine similar to whipping but thinner to do the stitching, not some high grade nylon so it will be interesting to see how it holds up. I will sticth one connection on a tester rig and then use a knot on the other side to see IF I can break the stitching. Will update when/if I get the results.

RA, Webbing is to bulky and likely to pick, I can handle the thinner diameter pretty well and will try to not burn my hands. To me, the thinner cord is ideal and having used a coworkers lanyard that was similarly constructed (with swaged connections and rings) I decided that cordage would be ideal for me. The light weight and small footprint fits perfectly in my setup.

I do really like the screwlink, it was the smallest available and <$2. It even has really tiny SWL markings on it, so small you can barely see but it screams Petzl quality, you can find it here:

https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=933

Thanks for the feedback guys!
 
Im glad to see you were thinking about that break away when you built it. I like your idea of using the connecting link as the break away, might be the easiest way. Maybe just an elcheapo key chain biner would work (with a little testing maybe). What do you think you are looking for it to break at? I would think between 200 and 300 lbs.

I was the same way, I never had the break away either until I had an incident and then I rethought the home made stitch it up (with no thought of break away).
 
I've used this ring on saw lanyards:

Loop

This can be slid along the cord to put the loop where you want it. They have some other plastic swivel loops that could be useful.

The breakaway part of my lanyard is the terminal snap, brass, that breaks at less than 100#
 

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