Hitchhiker with zigzag+?

First, my official position is that this is all unnecessary. Aside, whatever you do with the zig zag, watch the angle of the “hitch” attachment to the yellow base. They should not be pressing against each other when you load the device with your body weight. If they are, bad configuration.
 
The bottom part of the Sticht hitch creates friction that might be able to help the ZZ in SRT. Some hitch cord, a ring, and a rope thimble are the basics needed. I don’t have a a ZZ, so need to follow the low and slow.
View attachment 65239
Very intrigued at how this LOW PRICED friction-ring, tied-cord SRS will develop.

Cheapest thing going.
Gear manufactures won't care for it.
 
That's made out of yale uni-line pretty sure. Really iteresting rope, crazy stiff and durable.

Davey Seattle bought a bunch of uni-line fliplines after wire cores were banned by hq. Mixed reviews, but reasonably comparable to wire core. Could rig something similar with a wire core lanyard and a ring on a prussic.
 
The bottom part of the Sticht hitch creates friction that might be able to help the ZZ in SRT. Some hitch cord, a ring, and a rope thimble are the basics needed. I don’t have a a ZZ, so need to follow the low and slow.
View attachment 65239
pretty sure one of the issues of just using a zig zag in a SRS configuration was that it doesn't maintain the proper angle for the device. It doesn't look like adding the stitch hitch here would help with that.
 
It was due to poor maintenance and lack of inspection

Couple of hairs to split... presumably, the device failed because of either misuse and/or manufacturer defects.

The climber fell because of bad decision making. Primarily, not taking care of their kit (poor maintenance), poor gear selection (kit that either hadn't been inspected or had and the climber used it anyways.)

But how many Zigzags have to break before it's Petzl's fault?
 
Couple of hairs to split... presumably, the device failed because of either misuse and/or manufacturer defects.

The climber fell because of bad decision making. Primarily, not taking care of their kit (poor maintenance), poor gear selection (kit that either hadn't been inspected or had and the climber used it anyways.)

But how many Zigzags have to break before it's Petzl's fault?

I feel like it's less a matter of how many and more so a matter of why they broke.

If people were dropping out of trees because they kept side loading carabiners we wouldn't blame the manufacturer over it.
 
I feel like it's less a matter of how many and more so a matter of why they broke.

If people were dropping out of trees because they kept side loading carabiners we wouldn't blame the manufacturer over it.

But the fact that so many, of multiple generations have broken, makes me think that it isn't a very robust tool for tree work. It is amazing and all, but I'm equally leary of it.
 
After a lot of time and consideration. Totally decided the zag hiker will not come to fruition. It was a thought provoking idea, but the potential for funky loading and usage outside of its designation made me too leery to attempt it in a work setting. Which is totally okay because the hh2 works well enough all around.
 
...so many, of multiple generations have broken...

In April of 2013 Petzl recalled all ZigZags made prior to October of that year. They would give you a retail price plus 30% refund or that same amount in any Petzl gear. As the release of the 2014 edition approached, they changed it to replacement with the beefed up version. When the link plate fractures occured, during a change of steel tempering process, they again would replace it with the newer version 3 units. Nobody fell from the link plate fracture issue... if the plate broke, it would just lock the thing up and you'd be stuck on the rope. Petzl pays all shipping costs when you send a ZZ in for replacement.

The only issue to arise from a version 3 unit is the one in THIS POST and that unit did not break at all. The climber claimed it was an issue with a spring in a part that has no springs, and sent it back to Petzl. As can be seen in the climber's own photos, the unit was fine, just very dirty.

According to Petzl, they have received no Version 3 or Version 4 units back with any mechanical failures, and only knew about the one mentioned above.

I'm not sure what else Petzl could do... they fix any problems they find, and replace any that might possibly fail. Sometimes defects take a long time to show up. Petzl has a huge market share in the industry, and a very low overall product failure rate.

I'm sorry the ZigZag makes you nervous. I hope you find something you like that works as well.
 
I'm sorry the ZigZag makes you nervous. I hope you find something you like that works as well.

Great post, Jeff! Its easy to have headlines make things look more dire than they really are.

My interest in the zigzag has still dropped off the cliff (no need to feel sorry for me!). I'm pretty confident in my ability to work a friction hitch!
 
Can also do a wrench with art positioner or zillion. I think both r good to descend on if you use a "brake hand" with it while descending. The wrench would just make it smoother.
I think the hh is awesome and I'm saving up for one right now but I could see why you wouldn't wanna use it to avoid sap issues when it's warm out...if you work on a lot of pines.
It would be cool to see a hh with those ZZ links mounted on the hh body. But it would make it more expensive and once they wear out it's done. Plus the beauty of hitch cords is being able to get up tight with branches or the stem if need be and not be worried about side loading and bending the links. Which is also why the hh shines bc you can buy bulk cord and replace much easier and cheaper.
Since you already own it. Either carry a bag with a light thin retrieval cord in it so when your in trouble you can just clip it to your choke and drop the bag down or just keep it clipped to you while you bomb
 
Anyone ever try this:

I've done a similar idea when I was doing some big firs up in Tahoe, I put a piece of hitch cord on my flip lines with a prussic to adjust for length that went between my body and the tree so I wouldn't slide to far down if I gaffed out.

Op have you tried a rope runner or rrp yet?, might be a simpler more compact solution to what you're looking to accomplish, not many rope restrictions just size easy to clean works for srt or moving rope systems. I also use a camp giant which is my preferred device when I'm just going to spur up and only use my rope to bail out or descend when I'm done.
I really like these steel snaps for end of my climbing line easier to use than the auto locking beaners I always keep one on my rope with enough extra to quickly go around the tree.
 

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Spar work seems best with midline attachable stuff. The super simple and straight to the point Unicender is often overlooked these days, but I highly recommend it. The Uni can be rebuilt too. If you are spiking down, then the Uni won't see much wear. And if you are bombing down 100ft you can easily add in friction to the system.
Friction savers are a finite length. It may be interesting to use a sleeve on the rope, let the sleeve wrap around the trunk and cinch the rope with a bowline or something. Retrieving rope runs through the sleeve and not over sappy bark. Webbing sleeve is lightweight and inexpensive, replace as needed.
 

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