Hey Jersey Girl. Your setup looks pretty normal. Are you trying to footlock the tail to advance your knot? I don't think that works too well in this application, but honestly never tried it. For me I take up slack by holding my weight with my left hand above the knot and advancing the vt by pulling up toward the sky with my right hand. Kind of hard to explain, but I hope this helps.
hitch climbing
- Thread starter MattP
- Start date
RogerM
Carpal tunnel level member
- Location
- Louisville,KY USA
lose the extra biner that your spliced eye is attached to and clip into the same one as your hitch. You might need spliced eyes for your hitch cord in order to have enough room.
- Location
- Ontario, Canada
- Location
- Gibsons BC
Just grab the knot and swipe it up a little.
Your system with the two biners will be inefficient but will still work. No ascension system is 100% efficient but your setup can definitely be improved.
Your system with the two biners will be inefficient but will still work. No ascension system is 100% efficient but your setup can definitely be improved.
Roger_Barnett
Participating member
- Location
- Seattle, in the PNWet
[ QUOTE ]
Hey Jersey Girl. Your setup looks pretty normal. Are you trying to footlock the tail to advance your knot? I don't think that works too well in this application, but honestly never tried it. For me I take up slack by holding my weight with my left hand above the knot and advancing the vt by pulling up toward the sky with my right hand. Kind of hard to explain, but I hope this helps.
[/ QUOTE ]
footlocking the tail will self advance the knot....but it's slower than bodythrusting up a ways, then pulling the slack out. But see my next post for how the setup has to be.
Hey Jersey Girl. Your setup looks pretty normal. Are you trying to footlock the tail to advance your knot? I don't think that works too well in this application, but honestly never tried it. For me I take up slack by holding my weight with my left hand above the knot and advancing the vt by pulling up toward the sky with my right hand. Kind of hard to explain, but I hope this helps.
[/ QUOTE ]
footlocking the tail will self advance the knot....but it's slower than bodythrusting up a ways, then pulling the slack out. But see my next post for how the setup has to be.
Roger_Barnett
Participating member
- Location
- Seattle, in the PNWet
[ QUOTE ]
Watch the video to see MY PROBLEM - I can not get the hitch to advance. WHY ME?????
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpIciSsCjPo
thanks
[/ QUOTE ]
It won't advance unless you're up enough to have the rope weight pull through the hitch.
But, clip you rope end biner into the hitch biner. That will keep the hitch from slacking down so far, while you're hand over handing above it.
Next step is to set your rig up for auto self advancing.
Watch the video to see MY PROBLEM - I can not get the hitch to advance. WHY ME?????
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpIciSsCjPo
thanks
[/ QUOTE ]
It won't advance unless you're up enough to have the rope weight pull through the hitch.
But, clip you rope end biner into the hitch biner. That will keep the hitch from slacking down so far, while you're hand over handing above it.
Next step is to set your rig up for auto self advancing.
- Location
- Haddonfield, nj
if i were you i would buy a hitch climber, it stacks the biners one on top of the other, so that you dont get the rings to seperate and it doesnt cause slag in the line, it makes it much more efficent so you not constantly making up for that extra couple inches whenever you go to advance your hitch
warning: if you do not use a spliced eye on your rope than the hitch climber may not be for you, the reason being is that the termination knot that you tie is too bulky and actually puts pressure on your hitch, causing it to stay open, just as if you where to put your hand on the top of the hitch to descend
warning: if you do not use a spliced eye on your rope than the hitch climber may not be for you, the reason being is that the termination knot that you tie is too bulky and actually puts pressure on your hitch, causing it to stay open, just as if you where to put your hand on the top of the hitch to descend
- Location
- balancing on the edge . . . .
THANKs all - I have not gotten back on rope since I posted this, NEED TO
I like the hitch climber and will look into that
Yes spliced eyes on the split tail will be the end tools,
sorry - was not into this at tanglewood
all suggestions will be looked at and tryed and tested.
I am just tired right now and need to pack.
photos up a tree in tennessee will be posted in the next few weeks to show progress - while overlooking the clive and tn rivers, new home for a while - SAM ADAMS WE NEED TO CHAT. . . . .
I like the hitch climber and will look into that
Yes spliced eyes on the split tail will be the end tools,
sorry - was not into this at tanglewood
all suggestions will be looked at and tryed and tested.
I am just tired right now and need to pack.
photos up a tree in tennessee will be posted in the next few weeks to show progress - while overlooking the clive and tn rivers, new home for a while - SAM ADAMS WE NEED TO CHAT. . . . .
moss
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Carlisle, Massachusetts, U.S.
I was just ribbing you about Tanglewood, there was too much fun to pay attention to how anyone else was climbing.
Something to be aware of is that many daily climbers are quite strong enough to body thrust the first 10-15 feet to get the hitch to self tend. That's fine if you're climbing on the trunk and you're ok with building up several feet of slack above the hitch and then holding yourself with one arm while you pull the slack through with the other. It's doable but feels strange when you're used to pulling rope below a Blake's. If you lose grip (swatting at a horsefly for instance) with slack built up you'll drop whatever length of slack there is above the hitch at that moment, not good. If you're climbing away from the trunk you'll need a different strategy, unless you enjoy flopping on the rope doing an all air body-thrust (talk about burning calories!). That's where you need to footlock the tail either with your feet or a Pantin. Climbing on the trunk with a Pantin is a sweet way to go, one foot against the trunk for balance the other pushing down on the Pantin, say good-bye to body-thrusting.
You shouldn't have any problem using knotted eyes on the ends of your hitch cord. As far as I've seen only the Icetail cord needs spliced eyes to perform properly. For hitches like the Knut having knotted eyes makes it a little hard to tuck through one end to tie the hitch. For many of the hitches it's not a problem. The problem with pre-fab spliced eyes is that the length of the cord may not be right for your hitch and climbing rope configuration. The only way to find the right cord length is to tie knotted eyes. Once you have the right length working then you can measure the length you came up with to determine if the available retail pre-spliced cords will work or whether you'll need to have the eyes done custom (or learn to splice yourself). I've found that the spliced eyes tend to slide around on the biner more than knotted eyes. I've used electrical tape to tighten up the spliced eyes, it works.
-moss
Something to be aware of is that many daily climbers are quite strong enough to body thrust the first 10-15 feet to get the hitch to self tend. That's fine if you're climbing on the trunk and you're ok with building up several feet of slack above the hitch and then holding yourself with one arm while you pull the slack through with the other. It's doable but feels strange when you're used to pulling rope below a Blake's. If you lose grip (swatting at a horsefly for instance) with slack built up you'll drop whatever length of slack there is above the hitch at that moment, not good. If you're climbing away from the trunk you'll need a different strategy, unless you enjoy flopping on the rope doing an all air body-thrust (talk about burning calories!). That's where you need to footlock the tail either with your feet or a Pantin. Climbing on the trunk with a Pantin is a sweet way to go, one foot against the trunk for balance the other pushing down on the Pantin, say good-bye to body-thrusting.
You shouldn't have any problem using knotted eyes on the ends of your hitch cord. As far as I've seen only the Icetail cord needs spliced eyes to perform properly. For hitches like the Knut having knotted eyes makes it a little hard to tuck through one end to tie the hitch. For many of the hitches it's not a problem. The problem with pre-fab spliced eyes is that the length of the cord may not be right for your hitch and climbing rope configuration. The only way to find the right cord length is to tie knotted eyes. Once you have the right length working then you can measure the length you came up with to determine if the available retail pre-spliced cords will work or whether you'll need to have the eyes done custom (or learn to splice yourself). I've found that the spliced eyes tend to slide around on the biner more than knotted eyes. I've used electrical tape to tighten up the spliced eyes, it works.
-moss
- Location
- balancing on the edge . . . .
Moss,
I am GLAD i am use to swallowing my food before i read your post, call that training. . . .
I agree with you about BT up the tree and falling as I do not have that type of muscles or control at this point. also the one spliced eye ST that i have is TO LONG, thus the reason for the knotted eyes. the video was my third setup, first attempt to get off the ground, WITH all that was said, this is a great way to work in the tree, BUT for me not the best way to GET INTO the tree. I foot lock the tail for now. SO back to square 4 and feet on the ground.
check is in the mail for the ATL climb to the heights - so i hope to have things refinded at that time and learn the splice thingy stuff then "love nick"
"(talk about burning calories!). " are you saying i need to burn calories???
jz - need a tree
I am GLAD i am use to swallowing my food before i read your post, call that training. . . .
I agree with you about BT up the tree and falling as I do not have that type of muscles or control at this point. also the one spliced eye ST that i have is TO LONG, thus the reason for the knotted eyes. the video was my third setup, first attempt to get off the ground, WITH all that was said, this is a great way to work in the tree, BUT for me not the best way to GET INTO the tree. I foot lock the tail for now. SO back to square 4 and feet on the ground.
check is in the mail for the ATL climb to the heights - so i hope to have things refinded at that time and learn the splice thingy stuff then "love nick"
"(talk about burning calories!). " are you saying i need to burn calories???
jz - need a tree
moss
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Carlisle, Massachusetts, U.S.
[ QUOTE ]
"(talk about burning calories!). " are you saying i need to burn calories???
[/ QUOTE ]
Who me? Never!
-moss
"(talk about burning calories!). " are you saying i need to burn calories???
[/ QUOTE ]
Who me? Never!
-moss
[ QUOTE ]
warning: if you do not use a spliced eye on your rope than the hitch climber may not be for you, the reason being is that the termination knot that you tie is too bulky and actually puts pressure on your hitch, causing it to stay open, just as if you where to put your hand on the top of the hitch to descend
[/ QUOTE ]
Tie your termination knot with a large loop,That will put the knot high enough above your hitch to keep it from causing problems.
warning: if you do not use a spliced eye on your rope than the hitch climber may not be for you, the reason being is that the termination knot that you tie is too bulky and actually puts pressure on your hitch, causing it to stay open, just as if you where to put your hand on the top of the hitch to descend
[/ QUOTE ]
Tie your termination knot with a large loop,That will put the knot high enough above your hitch to keep it from causing problems.
moss
Been here much more than a while
- Location
- Carlisle, Massachusetts, U.S.
I just realized I have this photo from a while back, it's one way to set up the BII so there's minimal slop in the system:
More photos
The red rope (Fly) is there just to show how you can double-crotch with a second trad system and still clip into one point on the bridge. Normally you'd use the tail of the primary system (the PI) to create the second trad setup, the Fly is there to make it easier to distinguish the second system. The swivel is the Petzl L (new version). The only drawback to the swivel is that it gives you so much mobility that it can be destabilizing if you're not used to it.
-moss
More photos
The red rope (Fly) is there just to show how you can double-crotch with a second trad system and still clip into one point on the bridge. Normally you'd use the tail of the primary system (the PI) to create the second trad setup, the Fly is there to make it easier to distinguish the second system. The swivel is the Petzl L (new version). The only drawback to the swivel is that it gives you so much mobility that it can be destabilizing if you're not used to it.
-moss
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
warning: if you do not use a spliced eye on your rope than the hitch climber may not be for you, the reason being is that the termination knot that you tie is too bulky and actually puts pressure on your hitch, causing it to stay open, just as if you where to put your hand on the top of the hitch to descend
[/ QUOTE ]
Tie your termination knot with a large loop,That will put the knot high enough above your hitch to keep it from causing problems.
[/ QUOTE ]
Another way to deal with this if you don't have your spliced eye is to use an eye-to-eye friction hitch as a link. Certainly not as tidy as an eye splice but safer than having a knot interfere with the hitch climber hitch.
I apologize for the difficulty in seeing this in the attached picture.
Dave
[ QUOTE ]
warning: if you do not use a spliced eye on your rope than the hitch climber may not be for you, the reason being is that the termination knot that you tie is too bulky and actually puts pressure on your hitch, causing it to stay open, just as if you where to put your hand on the top of the hitch to descend
[/ QUOTE ]
Tie your termination knot with a large loop,That will put the knot high enough above your hitch to keep it from causing problems.
[/ QUOTE ]
Another way to deal with this if you don't have your spliced eye is to use an eye-to-eye friction hitch as a link. Certainly not as tidy as an eye splice but safer than having a knot interfere with the hitch climber hitch.
I apologize for the difficulty in seeing this in the attached picture.
Dave
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Fruit tree holding on by a thread, client wants to get another year out of it. Thoughts?- Started by climbingmonkey24
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