Haul-back line for remote rigging point.

southsoundtree

southsoundtree

Been here much more than a while
Location
Olympia, WA
Any tips, tricks, or cautions?

I have to continue with dismantling this maple and was thinking of swinging everything to the stripped trunk over our landing zone using a haul back line.

Since I tend to use aerial friction and self-lower most brush rigs, I'm reconsidering hand- tensioning a drift line to the rigging point over the drop zone and still catching and lowering pieces myself on a lowering line (natural crotch or maybe Rig'n'Wrench) while my ground worker works the drift line.

Any thoughts appreciated, on topic, as well as tangential thoughts for discussion.



The trunk where I'm standing is fully stripped with a natural crotch rigging point where I am in the picture, more or less, with the drop zone below.
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I’m assuming your meaning Hold back and not Haul back.

I’ll typically natural crotch the holdback and take a wrap on a stub. If it’s only controlling the swing and I’m doing a bunch I’ll use 3/8-1/2” paired with my scrab for some extra friction. Frequently just letting run on its own can be sufficient
Big big, is a block and someone on the ground with a porty for the holdback.
 
I did a haul back line a few weeks ago. I wish I would have ran it thru a speedline sling and carabiner instead of natural crotch. I was moving around a lot and a sling and carabiner would have been a fast easy way to move it around with me
 
If I am directly rigging into the adjacent leader, allowing the piece to swing without a hold-back line, then the ground worker will have to wait to start processing the piece to walk over to tie the rigging line to my climb line, which will need to be where it will tangle in the rigging zone.

Suppose the rigging leader and the cutting point are 40' apart. If I clip a 50' haul-back line to the working side of rigging rope, the rigged piece will swing a bunch before landing, which is allowable. With the haul- back line, I can self-reliantly retrieve the rigging rope while keeping my climbing line away from the rigging area (once the rigging rope is freed).






If I connect two long ropes to a rigging ring, which is connected to each rigged piece, I can catch rigged pieces on either rope, and have a drift line and haul- back line in one system.
 
evo said:
I’m assuming your meaning Hold back and not Haul back.

I’ll typically natural crotch the holdback and take a wrap on a stub. If it’s only controlling the swing and I’m doing a bunch I’ll use 3/8-1/2” paired with my scrab for some extra friction. Frequently just letting run on its own can be sufficient
Big big, is a block and someone on the ground with a porty for the holdback.
Click to expand...
Big big?
 
Usually, a walk over and rope flick by the ground worker is sufficient to get the rope back to the climber. Here is a lot of walking and flicking. It obligates the ground worker to more tasks while the climber waits to begin rigging again until the climber can regain the rope.


Trying to use the haul- back rope to reduce the time, along with the effort for the groundie.
 
Neill said:
I did a haul back line a few weeks ago. I wish I would have ran it thru a speedline sling and carabiner instead of natural crotch. I was moving around a lot and a sling and carabiner would have been a fast easy way to move it around with me
Click to expand...
I used short Hank of 3/8ths and just tied a carabiner to the end, then clipped that carabiner around the rig line.
 
RyanCafferky said:
Remember the guy Jomoco? He posted about his method for getting the rigging line back which was to use a retractable dog leash with a carabiner on it. I always liked that idea but never tried it.
Click to expand...
That is a brilliant idea, but I don’t think I’ve ever handled one of these dog leashes that could possibly have enough oomph to accomplish this task.
 
southsoundtree said:
Usually, a walk over and rope flick by the ground worker is sufficient to get the rope back to the climber. Here is a lot of walking and flicking. It obligates the ground worker to more tasks while the climber waits to begin rigging again until the climber can regain the rope.


Trying to use the haul- back rope to reduce the time, along with the effort for the groundie.
Click to expand...
Oh I thought you were trying to slow and control the swing to the other spar. Just any old rope of enough length and a rope snap or junky carabiner. Just make sure there is a knot in the rigging line that can’t pull through.

I thought you were talking about tip typing the rigged piece, and butt tying a second line to control the swing.
 
I know that basically it's all a variation on a theme.

In this scenario, the rigged pieces are going to swing far and fast, moving the haul-back rope quickly near my vicinity.

I need to keep the line from fouling in any way.
Leaving a loop hanging could become a CF.




Just hoping for any little gems.


Discussion is slow on the forum, so I figured it might spark discussion even if nothing comes of it.
 
I have limited experience, and haven't gotten too daring with the concept yet, and so am keeping a close eye on this one. I wanna move keeping more responsibility in my own hands, so that I csn make bigger situations workable with my wife on the ground.
 
southsoundtree said:
I know that basically it's all a variation on a theme.

In this scenario, the rigged pieces are going to swing far and fast, moving the haul-back rope quickly near my vicinity.

I need to keep the line from fouling in any way.
Leaving a loop hanging could become a CF.




Just hoping for any little gems.


Discussion is slow on the forum, so I figured it might spark discussion even if nothing comes of it.
Click to expand...
Gotcha.
This is always one of the funnest rigging situations. When near equal height I’ve found it’s better to have the remote gin line a little slack and basically just butt rig the load, and lower it onto the remote line to land it between the two or at the base of the remote gin.
As you get lower the lines role reverses just like any other rigging forces can go way the hell up, remember the 120deg deflection diagrams. Anything more than compound the forces on the anchors.

When I said Big big above I’m talking about short portable bandsaw logs, in the 12-18’ range. We use to do this fairly regularly, easily in excess of 1000 pounds. I was typically the groundie running both lines.
For smaller stuff these days like I said I will mostly natural friction, but I do occasionally use the scarab or totem. The totem has a double stitch plate there is a method of taking two wraps with it


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What comes to mind for me is a system that allows the climber to slow the swinging piece while also giving them a way to retrieve the line each time. But it would require your ground crew to lower the piece. Run the lowering line through the block and over to where you will be rigging. Run that line through a rigging ring that is tied to a tag line that the climber has a way to control. This way when the piece falls away from the climber the rigging ring is up against the lowering line termination on the piece. The climber lets out line until the rigging ring is out at the terminal rigging point and then the ground crew lowers the piece. The ground crew unties the piece and puts in a stopper knot, the climber pulls the ring back to himself and repeat. The climber could also just use a carabiner on the tail of their climbing line in a pinch for this.
 
southsoundtree said:
I know that basically it's all a variation on a theme.

In this scenario, the rigged pieces are going to swing far and fast, moving the haul-back rope quickly near my vicinity.

I need to keep the line from fouling in any way.
Leaving a loop hanging could become a CF.




Just hoping for any little gems.


Discussion is slow on the forum, so I figured it might spark discussion even if nothing comes of it.
Click to expand...
Could easily set up a quick redirect with a Speedline sling to keep the haul back tidy.

Or: if your rig line is long enough us a rigging prusik and sling midline for each of your cuts, use the “tail” of the rig line for the haul back. You’ll want a redirect near your workstation like I mentioned above. Mini POW if you need to control the swing too.
 
It looks like a good set up for span rigging.. You could set the hard tie of the span rig line from the ground… Send up the end of the line in a running bowline, with a secondary rope of some sort tied on the tail to retrieve it from the ground at the end of the rig. It doesn't seem from the photo that it's mission critical for the piece to swing all the way to the left but maybe I'm missing something.

It looks like you'll probably need the ground to tie stopper knots below the block or ring on your span rig line when you're doing the brush, as it looks like you'll be a little bit higher than the hard tie on the tree to the left.

Nice moss.
 
We typically just clip the end of the climb line to the rigging rope. It doesn't see a load as the rigging rope runs through the carabiner.


If swinging pieces to the left, drape your rope to the right of the limb your on to prevent tangling.
 
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