Handsaw choices

shreddy said:
Anybody else having problems with Silky Zubat blades?
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Is it possible you are just being too aggressive with it? Don't get me wrong, it's just that some folks expect more from their tools than they can deliver. I have a friend, for example, that hand sharpens his saw chains (he gets them sharp, but the angles and heights on each tooth are way off from each other) and he dulls them quickly, so he forces the saw... instead of letting the saw do the work, he tries to force it through the cut. All of his saws, bars and chains are a mess. Literally, he does more damage to them in one day than I do in a year. He's so used to doing this, he refuses to believe it's him and blames the saws. I've seen people do this with a handsaw, too... try to get it to cut as fast as a chainsaw, going hell bent with it. They tend to jam the saw in the cut every third stroke, and snap the blade. Not saying you do this, but that steel is a compromise, a balance between sharp, stiff, flexible and hard. They're not invincible. It might be as simple as slowing down and concentrating on keeping the forces applied to the pull stroke, steady and evenly. Usually when stuff breaks, it's either cheaply made or the user is in too much of hurry to see results. Silky saws are not cheaply made, so at least consider the possibility.

It's also possible that you're getting one lemon after another, but I think you might be getting the blade pinched in the cut from a stroke that isn't straight, then trying to push it forward with too much force. These thin kerf blades really can't take much of that, they're optimized to be strong on the pull stroke and kept straight in the cut.
 
Started off on a silky zubat - amazing saw, though didn't like the weight of it (too heavy).

Went to a ibuki (working for different company - different saws) - some size of saw (big - too big) - of course it was even heavier. Make some big cuts with this dude.

Tried out the gomtaro - loved the lightness, and that straight edge was pretty cool for making notches. Saw was too weak though - would bend too much.

Now using a Corona 14" Razortooth - it's the optimum choice for me - probably lighter than any other 14", it's a lot cheaper, and I've used it for around 6 months now, and amazingly it hasn't broken! I'd buy it again, or try the Corona 13" Pony, or the Silky Tsurugi 330 Curved.
 
Used Corona when I started out.

Bought my first Silky, a Sugowaza. In Japanese that probably means "...", well, who knows. But, it's a beast at 16.5" blade length. Less pulls per limb. I don't mind the extra weight. Like the extra reach. Like the slip guard. Saw a buddy with a handsaw cut between his thumb & index finger the other day--painful, and slow to heal. Not sure how he did it, but, at any rate, I like having the handle separated from the blade.
 
First off, I'm a blade breaker... that being said, I find the zubat to be flimsy, not cheap, I just prefer a stiffer blade so that when it does jam it doesn't fold in half. I broke the tip off of a ARS on day 3 with it. I don't think there is anything wrong with being aggressive with a handsaw as long as you have an appropriate blade. Right now I have a Thrasher blade (not sure which one) in an old wooden handle and I LOVE it! I've been using the same blade for over a year and a half and, as long as I keep it clean, it still rips! It's not like new but I have never had a blade last anywhere near as long. I also find zubats go dull, maybe not faster then others but too fast for the $. I am all about having the best gear but when it comes to handsaws, I can buy 3-4 corona or other brand blades for the price of one zubat. It's simply not worth it to me, although I do really like the zubat scabbard...
 
Corona isn't the same company it used to be. Samurai took over the technology. I like the 13" Ichiban... very very similar to the Zubat... impulse hardened tapered blade design, long life. Same handle that the old Coronas used to have.

You can be aggressive and not break saw blades. Just don't apply down pressure on the return, or push stroke. The cheaper Samurai blade for that same saw isn't a tapered blade, so it's a bit more rigid, but won't cut as fast, and can bind a tad in fibrous wood, same as that basic Corona blade.

Wesspur and Bishop sell Samurai saws.
 
I've got the Silky Sugoi 360 and the folding Super Accel 210. Love them both, but carry the Super Accel 210 into the tree the most due to it's small size and quick access on my saddle. Sugoi on the leg when I carry it, but it slides down over time.
 
I prefer Silky saws myself. I have used Felco, Corona,ARS and "the Silky"
One of many reasons for a curved blade is for pruning and one of many reasons for a straight blade is to safely finish a chainsaw cut (not many do this )blocking down a stem. Of course you may use either for cutting anywhere. The are built straight or curved for a reason.They will both knick surrounding branches if your not carfull or lack experience in"selective pruning"
That is one of the reasons the blade is curved. To help you not knick surrounding branches. Important, I feel especially when pruning trees where people can see it or in a nursery.
There is also different teeth on saw fine to aggressive. Some cut only in one direction others in both.image.webp
 
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I have a sugoi 360 and I am super hard on things have never broken it. Seems to be hold up well. Now it has gotten dull but I have ordered a file to try my hand at sharpening it. I really like it but have thought many many times about trying one these nice straight saws. That is the one downside of the curved sugoi is you can't make a decent notch if you life depends on it.
 

Here is a great video from silkyAustralia about the difference between a straight and a curved blade.

I was recently gifted the big sugoi and I love it. I can't yet speak to the longevity of the edge or how difficult it is to sharpen but I do like that it is on their list of 'sharpenable' blades. I had a look at the shop the other day and the sugoi is $275 here while the replacement blade is $265 (!!) better just replacing the whole unit and keeping that dull/broken one for a spare imho
 
shreddy said:
Anybody else having problems with Silky Zubat blades? I have busted the tips off of the last three blades while sawing. The blade gets slightly bound in the wood and snaps the tip off; twice about an inch and a half back, then last week 3" back. It's driving me crazy and getting a little expensive to replace the blades. Every time temperatures have been in the 40's. Bailey's listed a "Limited Lifetime Warranty" but I have a feeling it's for the handle. Quality of steel just isn't what it used to be.
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Shreddy,
If you're buying your Silky saws via Amazon from Japanese suppliers then you're getting a thinner blade than what Silky exports to Sherrilltree for the American market. Many years ago Silky beefed up the thickness for our stronger population. We stand behind the American designed imports 100%, just send us all 3 blades if not bought through Amazon. I suspect Amazon or their sub dealer will help if it came from there.
Best regards,
Tobe
 
Your average American is considerably bigger and stronger than your average Japanese citizen. They always struck me as being more about finesse and technique, and Americans as more about brute strength. Clearly a stereotype, but it's the impression I was left with. A Japanese friend once told me that he had the exact same impression.
 
For me; a curved blade is fine for notching things a few inches thick (or whatever) - if you're pretty assured that the piece is going to go where you want it to go anyway. Curved wins for me.
 
Levi.CO said:
You make most cuts at your waste?
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No. You might have got the wrong tone from my message there Levi - what I'm saying is that I prefer curved to straight overall - as curved can do more, plus isn't bad at notching either. Curved is also good for reaching to pull a branch (or whatever) in a certain direction - as it's less likely to slip from the tip of the blade than a straight saw.
 
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