Good Pole Chainsaw?

turtile said:
Does anyone know of a good pole chainsaw? I've seen a few that can also act as an augur which I also need to plant trees.

Thanks for any help!
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No such animal. Operative word there being "good". IMO it is impossible to get an accurate final cut with those things. Might be ok for removals, and I have used them before for that, but not for fine pruning. Otherwise, Stihl and Husquvarna are the only ones I would look at.
 
oldoakman said:
No such animal. Operative word there being "good". IMO it is impossible to get an accurate final cut with those things. Might be ok for removals, and I have used them before for that, but not for fine pruning. Otherwise, Stihl and Husquvarna are the only ones I would look at.
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I would never use it on a valuable tree! The Husqvarna has an augur attachment which I also need but again, if it doesn't work well, I'd rather just buy a good augur.

Does Echo also have the same?
 
The Stihl extentables are amazing. HT101 and HT131. The HT131 will pull a 14" bar well in full oak wood, 101 sports a 12" and a little less comanding in full wood. They save me so much time in so many ways that it is rare for me to go to work without one. Even if I am just roughing in a few things or taking some excess weight off lower branches before climbing a tree to prune they pay for themselves in a short time. (Take a lot of abuse too.)
Then don't even get me started on take downs and tripping spooky cuts from a distance.

If Stihls Kombi unit has an auger attachment the KM130 would be the same engine as the HT131 and is easily swapable in a pinch break down situation. (Though they are two seperate tools.) I have both and would not be without them.

Tip on protecting the engines in transport - get an old bowling bag, or a soft cooler that will fit over the power head.
 
I have the Stihl HT101 and find it does have its place.. depending on the lean but it seems the higher you go the easier it is to get pinched, but I'm glad i own one and am happy with it for the times i use it. storm damaged or downed sketchy trees is when i seem to use it most.
 
i would steer clear of the echo. it works just fine (dont think it has an auger attachment), its just super heavy compared to the old stihl i have used. and the handle is not as ergonomic if you ask me
 
I was looking at the Stihl HT-131 at a local dealership... that's a well-made piece of equipment. I can see where it might tend to wear you down fast, so I'm guessing the sling is a good idea. I have a Shindaiwa commercial trimmer and I use the sling on it, now. The weight and vibration take a lot out of you in no time, without it. I assume the same is true for the pole saws.

Sometimes I get in a situation where I want to take some weight off a limb before I try to lower it, but don't feel comfortable limbwalking too far out on it. Any of you guys that have these ever use them in the tree? I've used the non-powered ones in a tree, but never one of these. I assume two climbing lines would be best, to keep stabile while you muscle the thing around... no problem, there. Just curious if anyone has some experience doing this.
 
dude that would beat the hell out of your core. your better just getting out as far as your comfortable and take the piece your comfortable taking.
i spent a lot of time under those power pruners before i learned anything about anything about tree work. i was using it off orchard ladders, balconies, roofs, landscape barrels, etc. never actually in a tree, probably for the best, but i imagine that being tough. and imagine you get pinched while your climbing? no bueno.
dont doubt your climbing skills. you can get where you gotta go

im with Mr. Bill. i miss having one (current employer is not down with power pruners) for cutting stuff under tension on the ground from a some what safer distance. just gotta be smart and not get it pinched.

and dont let people who arent good with is try to make finish cuts with it
 
CutHighnLetFly said:
...and dont let people who arent good with is try to make finish cuts with it...
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Oh, I'm a bastard. I don't let anyone else touch the stuff that says "Stihl" on it. Thanks for input, I'm thinking you're right, that it wouldn't be wise lugging it into the tree. Still, as you said, they certainly could be useful from the ground, in a lot of scenarios. First one I thought of was the one you mentioned... storm damage stuff under tension. We have horrendous ice storms, sometimes, in this state. And, being a prairie state, wind damage to trees is commonplace as hell. The trees that stand out are the ones that don't have wind damage, not the other way around.
 
My km 130 comes out quite often, have one of the carbon extn and a few of the heavier steel ext plus a few of the other heads. Heavy but a good tool and if you break a section it's a bit cheaper to repair than the telescoping
 
I have used it the tree plenty of times. Only in large open crown. For a few large cuts sure is worth it imo compared to manual pole saw. Especially when it to dangerous to climb out or on a limb or tree.
 
I don't understand why this tool was ever referred to as a pruner. But I heard my favorite company call it that. It's a limber at best. I carry mine in my truck twice to five times a year as a pole chainsaw. Agree with Mrbill, mostly downed trees where you need extra reach and clearance in work position. I have used it once or twice in 15 years up a tree. Once I reached over from an almost dead pine peg and cut the nearby and taller more compromised dead pine tree into small lengths into a medium/small drop zone. I don't even call my hyauchi pole saw a pruner. Use it all the time but the Marvin on hyauchi pole (2 sections) and handsaw mostly. For removals I start with the manual pole saw or handsaw just rarely. Usually start with the 36 volt battery electric stihl, the best electric I've seen, then go to the 261 then 461 if need be. A lot of the time I'm on the ground before I need the 261. Felling with the battery is Great when it's only small stuff (under 8") that is spaced out in a stand. Pull the trigger, no pulling in the tree. I can't wait for the top handle. Mark , is that coming soon?
Ropesheild I never knew of this fixed carbon option. Is that a lot lighter than the telescopic and how long?


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JeffGu, I use an HT131 in the trees for hours at a time on a near weekly basis. Use it from the ground on a near daily basis. It comes with a shoulder strap. I have never used it. Envy the really nice back pack suspension systems and fortunately lost out on the ebay auction where I tried to buy one cheap. (I would not use it at all. )

The power polesaw is a tool that aids me in accomplishing jobs in varying ways under ever changing circumstances. As such it is operated from all kinds of positions around my body, not just waist height in front. You learn tricks for managing weight and leverage. Start out running it for a shorter time and work your time up as needed.

Carbon fiber extender referred to is primarily not used with the HT 101/131 series. Thomas is talking about useing it to extend usefulness of his KM (kombi tool) set up.

(Thomas, make sure you try the blower attachment on that - my backback blower stays home most of the time now.)
 
Thanks merle
That carbon on the kombi sounds like a light and stiff option. I've never used kombi just on my third 101 over 12 yrs. mostly for hedges. I like the controversy over pole chainsaw in the tree. I'm actually wondering if I should give it another try. Maybe 20 feet up a 30 foot tall and very wide tree with a long horizontal. With a fence under it that can easily handle hits by 5" diameter 8 " long firewood. Not that pieces can't be directed. A power pole saw might be quicker than getting the rigging line out for one limb. never tried this but I might. what your saying about handling the weight using leverage is similar to using a pole pruner. I'm assuming you are partly referring to utilizing other branches as a mid point support. Is there other 'how to' on that leverage handling?
 
You're welcome. Not sure of everything I use in the way of technique but, a casual observer will say, "I can't believe you hold that out there all day long." Well, I can probably only hold it in one place for seconds.

A hand full of times I am resting it on a closer branch and pivoting into a cut as you suggested, a lot of the time I will 'throw' it up in a way that it just comes into position and is powering up starting it's cut at full 20 plus feet of extension right as it contacts the branch or wood to be removed. Most of the time I am lengthening it and shortening it, balancing the weight on my left hand and controlling it with my right hand.

About a third of the lower canopy on most hardwood trees can be worked from the ground here where benificial, most roof lines, tipping back the ends of softwood branches, any hazardous or sketchy work that I can get within 20 plus feet of.
 
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