Footlocking

Question for all the experienced climbers - could you use a small prussic cord and your lanyard as a footlocking cord alternative? the lanyard makes it adjustable. I use a rock harness without lanyard loops on the side so my lanyard is attatched to my belay loop. would you put your life on that? IMG_20210129_084236.jpg
 
How would you secure to switch over to positioning once you've ascended? I'd personally go with a prussic out of tenex or ice tail instead, not bulky and pretty cheap. each added connection point adds a point of possible failure IMO
 
No problems as an access/ascent system. Lanyard needs a stopper obviously. And you should have something that is fairly easy and quick to deploy mid air for rapid descent.
Sean is thinking through a whole process and for good reason. You top out your FL then need free gear to secure a switch over to something else.
 
How would you secure to switch over to positioning once you've ascended? I'd personally go with a prussic out of tenex or ice tail instead, not bulky and pretty cheap. each added connection point adds a point of possible failure IMO
it's a double ended lanyard. id tie in with the other end or attatch my gri gri to a strand. I almost always use a alpine butterfly as a canopy anchor.
 
I would substitute the rope snap for a locking carabiner. Rope snap has fairly specific use for implementing a lanyard wrap on the trunk for climbing on spikes. Carabiner can do the same and opens up many other modes for your short lanyard.
-AJ
 
I'd also add another 1.5" at least to all of the double overhand noose knots you're using. Once you load that lanyard up in real-world use the current short tails will be sucked into the double overhand part of the knot. No matter how hard you set them they compress further in use.
-AJ
 
I'd also add another 1.5" at least to all of the double overhand noose knots you're using. Once you load that lanyard up in real-world use the current short tails will be sucked into the double overhand part of the knot. No matter how hard you set them they compress further in use.
-AJ
For sure!
 

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