fly rope and art rope guide

stevebullman

stevebullman

im getting more and more tempted by this bit of kit, but im wondering if my fly splice is going to go through the pulley clevis when i want to retrieve it.
anyody?
 
I have the factory splice on my fly. With the ART RG, it is a snug fit going through the retrieval clevis. Great point is that it retrieves without a retrieval ball or something similar.

/forum/images/graemlins/rock.gif
 
I agree with Nathan. I only use the ball when I expect a hang-up. If you really yank the thing, the splice won't hold. But for 90% of the time, it comes out with just the splice.

One thing I do is remove the plastic shrink tube. It just causes problems and cracks later anyway. I use some hockey tape or electrical tape to cover the sheath and stitching. Other than that you should be good to go.
 
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... im wondering if my fly splice is going to go through the pulley clevis ...

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I think Steve is asking if the splice will pull through the clevis that holds the pulley that the rope runs on--not the clevis that is used for retrieval. If the splice didn't go through the pulley clevis then the rope and RG would be stuck in the tree.

I use the RG almost exclusively for removals. My last cut is almost always near my TIP so I just climb up and retrive the RG manually. I have wondered about the FLY splice fitting through that clevis though, so I tried it on the ground. It is a tight fit, but I think that the splice could always be pulled through the clevis, although there may be times when it would need a good tug. I have an early version of the RG, and I don't know if the size of the pulley clevis is the same on the current RG.

My Blaze has a protective sheath on the eye and that was even more difficult to get through the pulley clevis. I could see that the Blaze splice with the sheath could get stuck. Is the sheath needed?

When people do retrieve the RG from the ground do you use a string to lower the RG or just let it flip to the ground?

Mahk
 
Most of the time i'll just pull it out. Time is precious and having to deploy the throwline unless absolutely necessary just can't be warranted. the times i would however, in competition, if predicting a hangup, or if working over the top of a glass house.
 
It fits through the retrieval clevis snugly, so yes, it fits through the pulley clevis with room to spare.

I have seen some self done fly splices that wouldn't have a prayer of fitting through either.

/forum/images/graemlins/santa.gif
 
Steve,I bought mine from Nod,Its the latest one on he market but there is another that has a metal pulley block on it soyou will have to ask.
I will use it on must jobs & its great for take downs especialy on poles(stems) were there are no TIP,as you just lossen it off & slide it down.Also its alot better than a CS.
 
Who put a "sheath" on your Blaze splice, Mahk? Hardly seems necessary to me.

Currently I use the Blaze and the Rope Guide on every tree. Never a problem yet.

love
nick
 
When I was climbing on Fly I used a heavy nylon wire tie to choke down the eye splice to fit snug on my biner. The shrink wrap on the splice and the wire tie are large enough to catch for retreival.

I've found taht the splice on Blaze is large enough to catch.

I pull my RG out without a throwline. If there is a hard surface around the base of the tree I re-set the RG lower and generally out a ways on a low limb to get into the turf area.
 
Tom, I've disliked the size of the Fly splice-eye since I got it, it
flops around.
So I would be happy to here what a nylon wire tie is ? (I just don't know the word)
Or have you found something that works even better ?
I wrapped some (alot of) whipping twine to make the eye smaller,
it just looked rediculous and fell off after a while.

/ Oskar
 
Only once have I attached the throwline to the ropeguide while climbing. Funny thing is, the other day the black, plastic sheave of the pulley on the RG broke the other day when I was pulling it out of a tree. It smacked into the trunk of a Eucalyptus.* I bought a new sheave from sherrill (not too much money) and replaced it last night.

I still won't be lowering the RG with a throwline. If it costs me $20/yr, it's still worth it!

love
nick

*Gramatically speaking, should it not be "an Eucalyptus" since it starts with a vowel? but that sounds so wrong...An Eucalyptus. Maybe since phonetically, Eucalyptus technically begins with a "y."
 
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Who put a "sheath" on your Blaze splice?

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Came like that directly from Yale.


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Hardly seems necessary to me.

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Nor to me. I was planning on cutting it off, but I wanted to hear some other opinions.

Mahk
 
Are you talking about the black cordura webbing that they put over the eye? I'd cut that off in a heartbeat.

I view that the same way I view thimbles on climbing lines. Yes, the rope will last longer with a thimble or other chafe protection on the eye, but how long will it take for a carabiner to begin wearing through the rope. If you are replacing your rope at least every two years like a good boy, then you'll be fine without a thimble.

love
nick
 
[ QUOTE ]
... a Eucalyptus.*
love
nick

*Gramatically speaking, should it not be "an Eucalyptus" since it starts with a vowel? but that sounds so wrong...An Eucalyptus. Maybe since phonetically, Eucalyptus technically begins with a "y."

[/ QUOTE ]


Noone else will care, but, since you asked, pedantically speaking "'A' is used before all consonants except silent 'h' ('a history', 'an hour')...'A' is now usual also before vowel letters that in pronunciation are preceeded by a consonantal sound (a unit, a eulogy, a one)." (quoted from 'A Dictionary of Modern English Usage 2nd edition, by H. W. Fowler).

Your explanation was right!

Mahk
 
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If you are replacing your rope at least every two years like a good boy, then you'll be fine without a thimble.

love
nick

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nick, whats your opinion on the service life of a static line used only for ascents via SRT.
 
I'm gonna zip my lips on this one. If you're doubting it, replace it. I replace my ropes more than "every two years" because I'm just like that. It's hard to offer rules about rope replacement because there are so many factors involved. How do you store it? What methods do you use when ascending? Have you ever nicked it? Ever spilled gas on it? How often do you climb? Like Butch, do you climb with a cigarette hanging outta your mouth and has that melted any of the fibers of the rope? /forum/images/graemlins/jj.gif Stuff like that.

I've seen some crappy ropes in use and the basic response I get when I suggest changing the rope is either, "yeah, you're right" or "it held me yesterday, it'll hold me tomorrow."

As a general rule, rope will last a lot longer than most people think it will, and we should go on thinking that way.

Sorry I couldn't help.

love
nick
 
nick relax, im not asking you to certify my line, i was just curious of what you thought. I dont doubt my lines at all. i only asked because i think the manufactuer recommended a max of 10 years, in excellent condition. Regarding my ropes consider them all in excellent condition.
I thought it was funny because before friction reducing devices hit the scene Id easily burn through a rope in 5-6 months, at that point Id of told someone they were nuts if they had 2 year old line. /forum/images/graemlins/ooo.gif
I laugh because I now have several 2 year old lines and they are all in excellent condition. Thanks to false crotches (and my diligence to use one 95% of the time) /forum/images/graemlins/grin.gif

regarding my original question... let me rephrase. In your opinion, for a static line used only for ascent (srt) with mechanical ascenders and kept in excellent condition, do you think a service life of over 2 years is reasonable?
 
John,

With the small loads that you put on your access line :)
you should have no reason to not expect many years of service. From what I've read UV and battery acids are the worst thing for ropes. Since our ropes get used and bagged UV seems to be a small issue.

Oskar,

Take a look at the wire ties here:

http://www.icorally.com/products/harnessing/page35.html

I'm sure that you've seen them. What do you call them? Last year I found one of the tools that tightens the wire tie and clips the end neatly. It's an industrial built tool so I can adjust the tension that the tool tightens before it nips the end. For things like tightening spliced eyes I use large ties and a heavy pull. Actually there are two ties on my splice. One of the female ends are on either side to give a bit more bulk to catch on the RB bail. /forum/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forum/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
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