Eye to eye pursik

[Sawjocky]

Curious how long you fellas get out of your eye to eye pursiks? How much glazing over do you tolerate? Sap? Rotating/flipping them over. Washing them. What's your favorite?
I use beeline with slack tending cmi pulley set up in a distle on1/2 arbomaster for my flipline, and it holds up good cuz it never runs far so never glazes over. But if I set it up in same configuration for my climb line for up and down climbs it gets glazed even if I go slow on decent. Any input would be appreciated.

 

[Jonny]

Yeah they should last years for most lanyard setups.
You're descending SRT with a wrench or HH or something like that?

I have a couple 8mm ultra tech prusiks that Nick made for me in 2005. They were used DdRT, so they didn't see the same friction/ heat they would if used SRT. They'd pass anyone's inspection still, but I downgraded them to use for progress capture on MA setups just because of their age.
Should get a couple more, I really liked ultra tech.

 

[StaySafePNW]

I’ve used armor Prus and epi cord the last couple years and I would usually rotate the hitch around after every climb. I also will scrape the cordage on something rough to soften them up again and get the memory / glazing out. I switched to using Ice tail cordage and it’s a single braid that’s super smooth to tend and doesn’t seem to glaze or keep memory as much. Only downside I’ve found is it collects dirt faster and can pic a little on rough trees.

 

[theatertech87]

Depends on how much load you put on the prussik. Me being 320lbs without gear, I would burn through armorprus/epicord/hrc in 2-3 months... Oceans I would burn through in 3-4 weeks!

Believe it or not, I could get the oceans with spliced eyes cheaply enough it was more cost effective to replace more frequently, than it was to buy more durable cord (i also got the benefit of more consistent hithc performance as well)

I have however switched to mechanicals because of the cost of cordage and get much better wear life out of them.