Echo 2511t

Talon Tree Service

Talon Tree Service

New member
Location
Bargersville
Looking to sell or trade an echo2511t. I just bought the saw last week, have run it a handful of times, sharpened it once because the stock chain was dull. Paid $406 with tax, so that’s roughly what I’m looking for trade value. Would really like to trade for a 200t. saw is a pretty much brand new saw but for me I’d rather have another bigger top handle saw 0FDD5EBB-617A-4BE6-9318-8AA66D7C94BD.webpB8E7F464-4F32-4C83-9D4D-93E7543B8660.webp
 
Your asking for new price, for used and without warranty.

They are available for about $347 no tax online, shipped, iirc. Those saws Need 0.043, I'd bet, like 193t's.


I'll go $300 shipped.
 
southsoundtree said:
Your asking for new price, for used and without warranty.

They are available for about $347 no tax online, shipped, iirc. Those saws Need 0.043, I'd bet, like 193t's.


I'll go $300 shipped.
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If that’s all they’re worth I’ll keep it and muffler mod it or something, I’m just testing the waters. I wasn’t really expecting to sell it just thought no harm in seein, it’s not what I was hoping it would be
 
Talon Tree Service said:
it’s not what I was hoping it would be
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Yeah, it's not really comparable to a 200t, nor was it meant to be. (And I know you know that). But I think it's the best climbing/pruning saw I've ever used. Obviously keeping in mind what it's designed for and capable of. Maybe I'm getting old, but after years of running 192s and MS250s it is such a breath of fresh air. December of 2017 my right forearm was killing me. Overstressed, overused, worn out. Pain so bad and so often it was really starting to worry me. Now it's gone.

Like I said in another thread, the 2511 is like a Silky with a trigger. I'd muffler mod it and keep it for sure. The older you get the better it feels.
 
Where are you you located at.
I have a pretty decent looking 200t that most likely just needs some carb work.
It your familiar with the 200's they had quite a few carb problems. I took this saw in on a trade deal. Pretty sure I have either a 12 or a 14 depending on which you would rather have.
Brett
 
Try this, but drill the hole about 1/2” lower so you don’t melt the plastic shroud. (Took this screenshot off YouTube).

E7D6C245-DCA6-4685-A81F-8E540F58CE1F.webp
 
Talon Tree Service said:
I think you guys have convinced me to give it a little time and try muffler modding it. I haven’t even put a tank of gas through it yet.
What are you all doing with the muffler to open it up?
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You should just get rid of it, they aren't any good anyway lol.
Be sure you remove the muffler from the saw before doing any mods to it. Mark where it will clear the shroud, then you can use a uni bit and progressively go larger. A muffler mod will help power, but it can also increase the noise. I time that most times I like a little less modded saws for work saws, more for firewood, and a bit more for play.
You must richen the carb after modding the muffler or you can burn the saw up.
 
Or if you want a cleaner look and still retain your spark arresting capabilities you can take the muffler off, remove spark screen and use a burr bit on a Dremel and hog out the area the screen covers. Then come in from the other side and grind thru the baffle/wall so it’s a pretty straight shot from cylinder to the exhaust port. Remember to leave enough metal around the edges of the port to support your spark screen, blow it out with compressed air, reinstall screen and muffler. Advancing the ignition timing helps too. Makes a big difference.
 
chiselbit said:
Or if you want a cleaner look and still retain your spark arresting capabilities you can take the muffler off, remove spark screen and use a burr bit on a Dremel and hog out the area the screen covers. Then come in from the other side and grind thru the baffle/wall so it’s a pretty straight shot from cylinder to the exhaust port. Remember to leave enough metal around the edges of the port to support your spark screen, blow it out with compressed air, reinstall screen and muffler. Advancing the ignition timing helps too. Makes a big difference.
Click to expand...


This x2. If you don't drill through the metal from both sides it won't matter how big you make the exhaust hole. It will still rout the exhaust through the catalytic converter inside the muffler.
 
Thank you everyone, I’ll be modding it as soon as I get back home, I’m on a 40-50 day contract up North for a lot clearing project.
I’m going to try removing the exhaust and doing both Sides to open it up quite a bit
 
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