EAB--Does Drenching Work on Big Trees?

What's the biggest ash that can be effectively drenched? (pick the closest size)

  • 10"

    Votes: 1 10.0%

  • 15"

    Votes: 1 10.0%

  • 20"

    Votes: 1 10.0%

  • Drenching is less reliable--inject them all!

    Votes: 4 40.0%

  • Any size can be managed by drenching.

    Votes: 3 30.0%
  • Total voters
    10
The legal statement on a label typically reads: "It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling." In other contexts, I've always read "inconsistent with" as meaning "conflicting with" or "incompatible with". It seems to me that a given practice conflicts with a stated rule if and only if the rule specifically prohibits the practice or something entailed by the practice. You could use a pesticide in a manner that is neither specifically approved by the label nor specifically prohibited. In using the product in such a way, it seems to me that you would neither be legally protected nor condemned by the label. (If this space weren't intended, the legal statement could have easily stated that it is a "violation of Federal law to use this product in any manner not approved by its labeling.") Am I reading these things correctly?
 
Last edited:
If you're using Imidacloprid, that will work fine early in the pest cycle. As pest pressure increases though, it won't work as well. It is just not as effective at killing the EAB (more of a deterrent than toxic). Emamectin B is the best thing to use if you're serious about saving them. Also, the small holes you drill are negligible in the long run and much better than the alternative of tree death.
Similar to JD3000, I treat first time on 2 year span to build residual, then switch to 3 year span. That being said, we are in about year 5-6 of the 8 year bug arrival-total tree death cycle.
 
I just read something from Dr John Ball. He said DIY products homeowners can by will work up to 4" DBH. Imidacloprid basal drench will work up to 10" or 15" DBH. I forget I'm trying to find the article. And beyond that diameter, arbormectin for 2 year control. And unlike a cottonwood and other big trees that can die from other borers and stay somewhat sturdy for years, that an ash that has been attacked by EAB becomes brittle and high risk to fail and danger to climb. If I find the article I'll post
the link
 
Wyoarborist said:
I just read something from Dr John Ball. He said DIY products homeowners can by will work up to 4" DBH. Imidacloprid basal drench will work up to 10" or 15" DBH. I forget I'm trying to find the article. And beyond that diameter, arbormectin for 2 year control. And unlike a cottonwood and other big trees that can die from other borers and stay somewhat sturdy for years, that an ash that has been attacked by EAB becomes brittle and high risk to fail and danger to climb. If I find the article I'll post
the link
Click to expand...

That not the article but it Dr John Ball talking about EAB treatment and how the price goes up for removal due to risk
 
I have seen big trees fall to resistance issues after too many consecutive years of imid use. remember to switch up your chemistries.

Drenching is volume dependent, ie greater volumes will give better control but also greater environmental impact.

I'll either basal soil inject imid or bark spray transtect. rotating these methods seems to be fairly responsible, and good control without resistance issues. added benefit of not needing to puncture the bark and mistake your own hole for a borer exit the next season. self induced anxiety is the worst kind.
 
Wyoarborist said:
I just read something from Dr John Ball. He said DIY products homeowners can by will work up to 4" DBH. Imidacloprid basal drench will work up to 10" or 15" DBH. I forget I'm trying to find the article. And beyond that diameter, arbormectin for 2 year control. And unlike a cottonwood and other big trees that can die from other borers and stay somewhat sturdy for years, that an ash that has been attacked by EAB becomes brittle and high risk to fail and danger to climb. If I find the article I'll post
the link
Click to expand...

That not the article but it Dr John Ball talking about EAB treatment and how the price goes up for removal due to r
 
The 2nd biggest ash we treat at 46" DBH has only been treated with soil drench imidacloprid since 2009. The Original owner didn't want it drilled. Current owner wanted to stay the course. Current owner can afford the more costly treatments (his salary, per SEC filings is well north of $10M per year...) but just wanted to keep doing what we've been doing. I took some deadwood out maybe 5-6 years ago - no more than would be expected of a 46" DBH ash. Was just out there on Tuesday and it is looking great. This is a tree I expressed honest doubts about early on because there is a +/-18" wide x +/-40" wound on one side. Fortunately, there has been very little progression of rot there.

On the other hand, there is a condo association where we just started treating 3 years ago (previously treated - unknown method or product). Most trees 10-12" DBH. Several of their trees are starting to show some significant decline - to the point they will have those removed. Tree-age this year for the rest. There were also a few dead lilacs nearby. I'm wondering if lilac borer didn't come in as a secondary pest? tree-age will take those out where imidacloprid wouldn't because they are lepidoptera.
 
JD3000 said:
Bingo, those and banded ash clearwing will go after stressed ash and Imidacloprid will do bupkis
Click to expand...

ATH and JD, is it true that Imidacloprid is ineffective against (all?) lepidoptera? Or is it just not labeled for any? I just noticed that Transtect (Dinotefuran) is labeled for a variety of Lepidoptera as a soil drench.
 
Nish said:
ATH and JD, is it true that Imidacloprid is ineffective against (all?) lepidoptera? Or is it just not labeled for any? I just noticed that Transtect (Dinotefuran) is labeled for a variety of Lepidoptera as a soil drench.
Click to expand...
Very ineffective, if at all, against lepidoptera. So, yes, you have to look at other options for those if you want to use a systemic product (and unfortunately, they are are more expensive!):
*Safari/Transtect
*Tree-age/Mectanite
*Acephate (Lepitect)
*Abamectin (Abacide II from Mauget)
*Edit...almost forgot Acelpryn (which I've never used...)
 
Last edited:
ATH said:
Very ineffective, if at all, against lepidoptera. So, yes, you have to look at other options for those if you want to use a systemic product (and unfortunately, they are are more expensive!):
*Safari/Transtect
*Tree-age/Mectanite
*Acephate (Lepitect)
*Abamectin (Abacide II from Mauget)
*Edit...almost forgot Acelpryn (which I've never used...)
Click to expand...
The Acelepryn has worked well (against the clearwings) the last few years as a bark protective spray at the high rate, just before Flight period(s) and no smell like the days of old with the Lorsban!

The Safari (dino) not good on the Clearwing....at least what I have seen and tried on American Dogwoods.

The Tree-age/Mectanite injection seems to get em' good IF the vascular cambium is still flowing. My choice for "Rescue Treatments" on a Clearwing attack.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ATH
I haven't seen mite problems on ash after imidacloprid...but boxwood for sure.

I had wondered if the gall mites on male ash flowers could be worsened by imidacloprid, but I've seem similar impacts on untreated trees and tree treated with emamectin benzoate
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

New threads New posts

Kask Stihl NORTHEASTERN Arborists Wesspur TreeStuff.com Teufelberger Westminster X-Rigging Teufelberger
Back
Top Bottom