Distal hitch

I have Greg. I don't prefer it over the version of the French Prussik that I use for everyday use, but it does have some interesting features. For example, it seems to work the same when it is tied up close to your harness as it does when tied nearly out of reach. But, I still think that it seems to tighten a bit too much during the climb.
 
Lst. Sat. in our town we had Arbor Day. We did a little climbing demo. and had several lines in trees for swings, a table with relics and I made up a knot board.
What really interested me was during the course of the day just about every tree company in our town showed up, owners and employees (small town, prob. nothing else to do, to early to drink maybe
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And not one tree person there had even seen the french prusik or the distal or the Klimheist or the LockJack before. It was all new stuff.
I had these guys clustered around the knot board feeling and talking about these knots it was a lotta fun.
This guy who weighs maybe 240# was looking at the french prusik with disbelief that the little red, yellow and white rope could really hold him.

I think for the most part most Tree Companies really dont use or even know about most of these advances in climbing.
I think it is the exception to use this stuff not the rule.
Frans
 
Two years ago this month I competed in my first TCC (Western Chapter) I used a taught line hitch w/o a fair lead. I was amazed at what I saw there I'm a second generation climber. My dad started tree work in 1968. Old school to the bone. I hav learned as much in the past two years about climbing and rigging as I had in the ten prior. Work is so much funner when you're learning, safer and easier too. I'm out of the stoneages and am bringing as many w/me as are willing.(There IS a lot of resistance Though)
 
I just recently started using the Distal more often. I have been using the swaybish for quite some time. I seem to use something different every time I climb. I like the distal because I seem to have more control and feels more familar to me. However the hybrid taughtline hitch that it is still gets tight. For the most part I do like it.
 
well, I tried it to day. I ddint care for the way it tightens up. Maybey theres some other variation that will help with that.I change the wraps around on my french prussik depending on what I'm doing. Also, I change the lengths (usually to a shorter length) So maybe , the distal can be worked out in the same manner.
 
Try to change the number of wraps. You also will find a difference if you use a cord that is stiffer or more supple. Lots of variables to fine tune. Getting the components working together is like any other fine tuning. If one key on the piano is out of tune the whole song sounds bad.

I agree with Snarf, most climbers are still using a tautline and consider the Blakes pretty radical. Those of us who have tapped into modern climbing forget that there are a lot more climbers out there who aren't connected.

Tom

[ May 05, 2002: Message edited by: Tom Dunlap ]
 
I was playing with the distal a bit today and came up with a bit of a variation that seemed to work realy well for me. Its just the one down three up and then you put another half just under the first down. I have a picture if I can figure out how to post it. Any how it doesn't tighten up on me, always stays set, and I have good control with lots of holding power.
 
BigJohn's knot is not quite the same as the howard he will have to get the pic on.I used it and it works well.I personally dont like the distal for my climbing knot but I do use it on my lanyard and it works excellent.
 
Wow, missed that discreet one before Jon!
i climb with a 1 down 3 up distal, made from New England 3 strand HyVee; that braid and brand is specific to me.

i use a webbing piece between 2 'biners too; how do you use yours? i have one from Sherrill that is tapered at 1 end, with a rubber boot. i have been meaning to write about it, the webbing is like 550# from legal according to its rating in mine.

i 99% of the time have both 'biners linked in series. i only un-hook them, and actually use the webbing, to make a pulling extension for ratcheting up my friction hitch with a knot tender. When i un-hook the 'biner to extend, i make sure my lanyard is in place; then i only open the 'biner with the rubber boot on it; so it won't come off the 'biner is open anyway.
 
For starters I am using a buckingham versitile saddle. I insert webbing with william petzl biner from underneath through the center tie in point on my saddle. I then clip on my double locking biner and attatch it to my spliced eye. If I was to attatch each biner separately to my saddle I would have the flexability to move my rope around as I would like. This way I can just unsnap the splice end of my rope pull the webbing and friction hitch assembly out and go around an obstacle and reclip. Otherwise I would have to mess with removing a biner, pulley, and friction hitch. I have been using stitched slings from a few differnt manufactures. They run me on average of $3.00 and I replace them frequently. I will also in some situations clip my spiced end of my climber just to left of center, a biner in the center with a pulley and then my friction hitch just to the right of center. This way I can double crotch my rope using the center pullley. I will do this if I intend to use multible tie in points.
 
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